austingtir

Rockauto.com Raysbestos pn: 616-1060 350z d bolt. OR ACDELCO Part # 45K18060 Its special d bolt for adjusting toe or camber on the rear (depending on how low you are probably only need a pair). They come with a small template so you can rotary file the slots bigger. Lets you move the arms an additional 3 deg so they claim. (probably need 4 to get the 3 deg the claim) I got plenty with just a pair though. The beauty of these is it shouldnt appear as a modifcation to the car like the obvious adjustable bars everybody uses. And they cheap i paid like $60 to my door from USA. For the front you need to buy the flash upper arms that are available.

Im not going to argue that there may or may not be a slight performance loss the americans seem to think 10hp is likely. Iv been very happy with my latest fuel bills and the mileage im getting from a tank.... thats all that matters to me. These cars are not M3's or GTR's and you guys are kidding yourselves if you think the engine is highly strung like the cars i just mentioned. If i want to go fast ill drive my turbo cars. A 10hp difference to me after my previous experience with cars is nothing.

That offset will probably be almost perfect for the sedan... i think Z and couple wheels are slightly lower offset and both fit the sedan the coupes wheels in particular look nice on a sedan.

get a hose and spray the passenger belt and listen if the noise goes away.. If it goes away your passenger belt is slipping replace it or retention. Im betting its the passenger side belt. The factory belt size imo is to loose on the passenger side to get a decent tension on it.... some belt brands seem better than others aswell. Find the factory belt size and get the next size down. Should be a 4pk925 or something like that for the sedan.

^^ Rubbish. They will run perfectly fine on 91. And my testing shows me shell is better (on my particular car) here in NZ.... Simple as that. I also just did a 91 tank.... i wont be going back to 96 or 98 ever. All the american g35's can run their 89 octane which is pretty similar to our 91 i believe..... seriously some people talk some crap.

Theres a sticker under the bonnet which says to change it at 100,000kms. This has been covered in other threads aswell.

Get some low mileage suspension from a 350gt-8.

Rage here in nz do a 350z exhaust.... i plan on buying the front two sections for my 350gt-8 doing the extensions at the front and making the rear myself. Its a true dual with what looks to be a custom x pipe like most of the nicer american made exhausts. Im sure with your dollar this could be a good option price wise... personally i would probably import some magnaflow mufflers to stick on it as i dont know about how it will sound. Stillen and all the others are nice but they are expensive and unecessary in our climates in stainless imo. If you live somewhere where it snows stainless is probably a good option but here i couldnt justify the cost personally.

Low mileage oem are best as they are easy to find and CHEAP. I dunno if gt8 sway bars are different to the others... could be because the damn things ride so high factory. But mine sits great on the road especially so with the z suspension. And the stock sway bars are pretty damn big from what iv seen.... imo sway bars arent good value for money. Once you start looking at nismo or branded stuff its 7x the price. Also tokiko hp on ebay are pretty good. Do some research and find what 350z year model is going to work and the ebay tokiko hp's are pretty good value for money.

I can get 700-800 (110km/cruise) in my gt8. You need a taller diff. LOL. Seriously TRY 91 or 96 and see if it improves.

get the equilvalent year model 350z suspension (not sure if that works on the later model v36) thats what i did with my 350gt. 03 350z track shocks and aftermarket springs.... its a pretty good compromise of ride quality and sportyness.

Iv found the same thing here in NZ on shell 96 i get significantly better mileage than bp98. I was running bp and gull 98 now i only run shell the fuel economy is alot better. It amazed me aswell as its quite a big difference. All of my driving was 120-130kph 350kms at a time so not start stop. And all pretty similar driving on each different fuel

I have a nismo rear 2 way nismo centre and nismo 1.5way in my PULSAR GTIR no way in hell am i putting one of those noisy clunky pos in my GT8 the stock viscous is perfectly fine for my driving with this car.

double post

Im not overly concerned about that.... i own a radar detector and cruise around at 130kph everywhere anyway. Also my car is running 265/35/18 on the rear this is probably like nearly 30mm under size diameter wize compared to stock. I havent looked at the calculations..... could be intresting.

3.3 from a auto 350z is probably what i will end up using think they are lsd. Taller so might get better mileage aswell.

I have some tv tuners that i imported from china but they dont work in NZ i believe they have the correct specs for australia and may work so if your intrested you can try one NZ uses a better system than you lot using mpeg4 decoding h264 and the uhf version of it doesnt cover that much of the country yet. austingtirATyahoo.com.au If your intrested.

Thats great you got it sorted and gave the details on the problem and solution it just shows how important a good scan tool is with these modern ecu's. I want to get myself a consult3 or equivalent at some stage.

You should let them know if they can fix it then they may have some more customers if it ends up being a common fault on the cvt cars awell. Maybe some of the autos might fail from this issue aswell who knows.... Strange though that the cvt ecu (that you would think would be different) possibly has the same issue as the autos....

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-328966931.htm Im pretty sure they have sold the cvt boxes a long time ago but you might get lucky and they may have a cvt ecu...dunno. Possibly contact an ecu specialist.. i think plms developments over there may be able to help but not sure if they do anything other than engine ecu's.

Thats awesome..... distract him and steal or photo copy it!!!! Out of intrest... it was in japanese correct?

$5000 you could easily put a 350z manual in it. Actually it would likely be alot less than that if you did it yourself. I dont know about over there but here in NZ the 6 speed sedans are worth ALOT more than the gt8. You would come close to braking even then. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-325668766.htm Whatever the problem is dont spend anymore than 1500 on it imo..... if i had to spend anymore than that on the cvt it would be heading for the skip bin and get manualised. For a simple temp sensor you shouldnt be looking at more than $500 total cost unless its some gold plated cvt sensor. Us CVT guys need to start recording these problems and documenting everything as the sooner WE figure out the problems with these transmissions the less its going to cost us all in the long run.

Im intrested to hear what the problem ends up being and its cool that the standard diagnostic procedure in the (i assume USA manual) has worked to some degree in telling you there is likely a oil temp sensor out.

Am i missing something here why dont you take it to Nissan for a diagnostic? Surely for them to plug in the consult and and assuming it will tell them whats wrong wont take very long = not to much $$$? Whereas at any other outfit they would be using generic scan tools which may or may not work...= them taking guesses = costing more money...... unless this fabcar outfit specialises in Nissan? The oil temp sensor fault sounds like it could be part of or is the solution as the gt8 cvt has a pretty big cooling system on it which probably includes a temp sensor somewhere. If the temp sensor went out for the cvt it may not like that at all.... dunno...