austingtir

Im wondering if the people that think that pushing the factory button kills everything totally have really wide rims and tyres on the back of their cars? Because you likely wont notice much difference if you have a set of 265 or larger tyres in the dry. Thats what i found on my gt-8 going from stock 215's which will light up the slip light quite easily to 265's you really have to be pushing on to get anything to happen with those. With the switch on the g sensor you are gauranteed nothing is going to cut in and stop your fun.

hmm that module is an intresting way of tackling it. I just put a single pole switch and rigged it up to switch power on the orange wire (12v) on the g sensor under the arm rest as stated on g35driver forums. Works good.

Double post

You should either get the correct radiator with the oil cooler...... or upgrade your current oil cooler when you replace with that radiator your looking at and drive slowly until everythings warmed up..... probably not the best. Replacing with the correct radiator is the best option as i have seen a chart that shows the best operating temps for the traction oil and it actually likes being reasonably warm (traction effect goes up with increase in temp within its operating range). If you go with a bigger air to air i would use a thermostat.... assuming the black round thing is an oil filter and not a thermostat. You need to find that graph im talking about that will let you know what temp thermostat you would need... cant remember where i found that now. If you do pull it all apart check that black round thing is a filter as im keen to know myself?

Yeah deff the trans cooler my gt-8 looks identical. On the gt-8 it runs into the radiator and then into that oil filter thing then the air to air cooler. Thats getting pretty serious imo. Is yours a gt-8 or the normal auto? Its suprises me if the auto trans has the same setup. I wouldnt of thought it would need both.

Looks glazed to me and generally pretty rooted. I would buy new discs and if you want to track the car again i would buy two sets of discs one set for cheap pads you dont care about for road use and the other i would buy carbotech pads from the usa with their own disc set so you dont contiminate the disc. Just buy the cheapest discs you can find here in NZ i use BNT for that. I used carbotech on my gtir they are awesome. Just check if carbotech make pads for the g35 and you should be golden. I havent changed the brakes on these but id expect there is a pad sensor to tell you they are worn or something. I cant tell from that pic if the pads are down to the backing plates or not.

Lets hope nissan japan sells something similar/same. The JDM v36's were pretty ho hum imo. Nice but could have been better.

The sticker under bonnet seems to suggest 100,000kms as the service interval for the cvt trans. I have found info from nissan that says they ran there test cars to 120,000kms and the oil was still fine other than a small amount of acids formulating and they could of run much more kms no problem on the same oil. This cvt doesnt use belts and you best to google extroid cvt so you can get pics to understand it better. Basically unless it stops working properly dont loose to much sleep over it. If your worried about the oil then change it alteast it gives you peace of mind its been done i guess.

How about some pics then we can work out what else it might fit? Also the FD ratio is on the plaque in the engine bay drivers side it will read rc36 or something similar?

Its just for pushing the disc off when its rusted on there when you change discs or service the brakes. Someone probably left it on there or something as i dont remember seeing them on mine.

It will probably be a real pain to fit that lsd to your gt-8 i think the bolt pattern on the half shafts will be different. GT-8 is 3.6 FD open 350gt coupe auto i think is 3.3 FD viscous 350z auto i think is 3.3 FD viscous (i wouldnt mind one of these probably get awesome econonomy cruising at 120k.) Im probably gunna put a cima 3.6 viscous in my gt-8 looks like they pratically bolt in other than the rear cover which you swap.

Fair bit of scaremongering on here me thinks. I did alot of research before i bought mine and learnt a fair bit. While they are expensive to service and impossible to get parts for... the facts are that the car is getting old enough now that parts from others that are crashed or damaged in some way will get easier and easier to come by. Or if worst comes to worst you can always put a 5speed auto or manualise it. The nissan service interval for the cvt is 100,000kms (it states this under the bonnet). If you change the oil before this you are either racing the car or have more money than sense. Nissans own tests found after 120,000+kms there was no degredation in the oil only slight accumulation of acids. Nissan has run this transmission for testing on the v8 and the vq30dett which made more power and torque than the gt-8's. I have found who makes the nissan cvt oil and have tried contacting them to see if they will sell direct no luck as of yet. Nissan has charts showing all of the above and a few other things including the effect temp has on oil's tractive efforts pretty intresting stuff. When it comes time to change my cvt oil i probably will look into putting an air to air cooler with thermostat to avoid the remote possiblility of the radiator rupture theory and to regulate the temp to the optimum to achieve the best traction for the oil on the rollers. Oil temp has a huge bearing on how the oil can stop the rollers from slipping. As said its an amazing car to drive with this transmission and for the money they go for in NZ imo they are a bargain.

Iv done 12km/l on the last two 350km return trips in my 350gt-8 (highway) The lowest i have had on highway is 10km/l and that was sitting at around 120km/h most of the way with some heavy foot in the twisty bits. Obviously im pretty happy with the gt-8. Im actually scared to change out the dirty looking filter incase it ruins my economy.

IMO we would be better off trying to figure out how to do the whole lot ourselves. I really think its only a matter of time until this information comes up somewhere and we will be able to flash our own ecus reasonably cheaply. Im probably only speaking for myself as i always do everything like this on my cars myself. The evo and sti boys have had openecu for years now.... our ecu is quite similar to their's really i think some may even use the same chipsets. Until then osiris is probably the best option though.

Yeah im not really after a "should work". Are you saying consult II does work with the gt-8? I want to know for sure if it works with one or the other and which it works best with. If consult III works (full comunication) that would be nice as i have the software already among other bits and pieces. So i have to obtain less parts for it to work for me and it runs on a laptop which is nice. Consult III is also compatible with more newer cars so its probably worth the investment more.

Can anybody confirm what software nissan uses on 2002 nissan skyline 350gt-8's for servicing? I see consult III works for 2003--08 g35 sedans in the states. But i have also heard discussion on here that the early v35's use a different comunication method. What are the chances of consult III working on my car? Some of you may know where im going with this.

AMI I actually think we can do better than that but its o.k for now... might put some pressure on them in a year or something as they usually try to hike the price up after a year... thats what iv found anyway. I do all work myself.

Mines a 350gt-8 sedan but insurance was 390NZD a year..... will be intrested to see the coupe prices for sure.

Emailed you

Another v35 sedan in desert platinum metalic. Hawkes Bay though. The supercheap band expanders do work good and the price is great to. If any coupe owners want to sell their oem 18" wheels let me know!