natho

shame you're in melb! i want the inlet manifold/sensors/injectors etc. if no one comes to get it and you decide you want to get something for it let me know and i'll buy it!

im pretty sure you wont get an rb20 head on an rb30 block without welding all the water/oil gallerys up and drilling new ones, so unless you're really keen scrap that idea and get a rb25 head!! yes my vl rb30et made 187rwkw with very little mods, it is a relatively healthy motor though (considering its never been rebuilt). cubes i believe the factory power figure was on 95RON? however i do know a friend managed 140rwkw from an auto VLT on 91ron before it pinged!

heres my chart i must admit i wasnt expecting a reading so high, especially with the catback exhaust and the boost tapering off >4000rpm. i'm happy for those of you who didnt realise, its a stock motor, turbo and ecu, only mods are cooler, catback exhaust and boost increase (13psi peak). joel was it you who told me the speed at the bottom wasnt calibrated? he stopped my run at 5100rpm, and going by gearcalc that should be around 175km/h in 4th gear, but that doesnt match the chart. i wouldnt mind calculating the rpm from the chart if i can.

'doh! we'll find out once i put a better clutch in, it'll need it either way

joel, if it's leaking its not making it as far as the ground! but its only a stock VLT clutch, asking it to hold the power i have is a bit much i think, i always had planned to upgrade it one day.

lucky i paid by today then! gave it some boost in 4th the other day (with the vl's gearing you dont get to do that often as you have to be 80+km/h) and the clutch didnt slip.. hopefully will be OK for saturday

I noticed that 10 people haven't deposited yet so I just did so then. Should show up tomorrow hopefully. Even though my clutch slips, its only sometimes in 4th so if I drive it there easy and dont heat the clutch up, and get the dyno done in 3rd, hopefully it'll be OK. Haven't had it run with the cooler on yet so it'll be good to see how it goes even if the clutch does slip during the run.

looks like i wont be able to give my car a run after all, clutch slips once it hits fullboost in 4th and sometimes in 3rd, and I probably won't have a new one in in time for the dyno day

ok put me on the list!

if you dont mind a vl being there, wouldnt mind giving my VLT a run, havent dynoed it since the cooler went on and boost was turned up...

if its regoed its fine. problem we had was the car didnt have RWC (road worthy certificate). to sell a cer there registered, you need RWC. no point paying for a RWC and rego just to drive it back to SA...

after having trouble with the cops doing this a few weeks ago, just keep this in mind if buying a car from VIC without roadworthy. the owner keeps the plates, so you have to get a permit to drive the vehicle without a roadworthy. GET A SINGLE TRIP PERMIT, not the other option which is to take it to a mechanic to get roadworthy done. the fine is $500 if you get caught (driving unregistered vehicle) and then you need to spent another $50 for another permit, which is the same as the first one with a differen box ticked. also, even though transport SA will tell you otherwise, the SA Police WILL NOT recognize the victorian unregistered vehicle permit, so get an SA one before you go. be nice if they agreed seeing as we had a form filled out ready to get the SA permit, but upon taking it in, they said it was a waste of money and the VIC permit would suffice. towing a car back from SA/VIC border @ 70km/h is not fun.

had a vl once do a very similar thing. i took the top timing cover off and could see the belt flapping around (hence the noise) at 1500-2000rpm. was all good with a new belt.

hey all has anyone had their RB injectors cleaned and flow tested in adelaide with good results? if so, where? every set i've had cleaned (both n/a and turbo RB30 ones) have come back OK and a few months later started leaking internally. i have yet another set of original ones i'd like at least flow and leak tested but i'm not sure where to go, i dont bleieve most of the places here do a good enough job. Thanks Nath

its only for the rb30e n/a so i doubt there'd be a big torque difference from an rb20det.

lol no im serious i left it in his car when we went to get some compliance work done!

yeah thanks luke can i have my street directory back?

vl turbo ones are the same CC as RB20DET ones, around 260-270 depending on what pressure you test them at. it appears that NICS injectors are the same. RB20DET ECCS injectors flow the same too but are high impedance (compared to low for rb30et or nics) but i have heard from someone who's tried them that they still work fine. the vlt ecu doesnt appear to use any resistors or PWM to run the low impedance so i wouldnt mind trying a set, as they are newer than vl ones and *seemed* easier to find...

none of them would be turbos

the gtr ones might have a better spray pattern and therefore better economy and idle.

hey all i'm after some rb30et or rb20det nics injectors.. anyone local got some? i want a set that hasn't been cleaned as all rb30 injectors i've had cleaned start leaking after a while. if anyone has some rb20det eccs injectors sitting around and is willing to loan or sell them to me i hear these work too despite the impedance difference, and i wouldnt mind trying. thanks

thanks for that i'll keep it in mind rather try to find something locally first and i'm waiting to hear back from a few people.

just curious which one you have? 5001 or 5265? also look here and select skyline.. weird how it specifies using the GM fan blades on an R31!!

i was quoted $150 each for RB30ET (turbo) injectors the other day. hence my investigating other options!! what brand were the ones you got?

Hey all Got a bit of a problem at the moment with injectors. It seems that RB30 injectors don't like being cleaned. I've got 9 RB30ET injectors here that have been ultrasonically cleaned, and after a few months they started leaking internally. I even had some cleaned by a different place, as i thought it was a problem with the method one place uses. I've also had two sets of n/a RB30 injectors cleaned wich have resulted in the same problem. I've set up a 'test rig' with a spare fuel rail, pump and regulator, and pressurised it while letting the injectors and rail sit on white paper.. after turning off the pump, and letting it sit for a few minutes, all 'cleaned' injectors left pools of fuel on the paper. All original, uncleaned injectors didn't. This is obviously the cause of the many cranks required to start when hot, and the black smoke for a few seconds once started. Anyone seen this before? Now for my impedance question... I've since discovered that RB20DET NICS injectors are the same as VLT ones. RB20DET ECCS injectors are also the same flow, but high impedance instead of low impedance (ignoring the hose tail/oring difference). I spoke to someone in New Zeland recently who said they had done quite a bit of testing with injectors and has found that even the RB20DET eccs injectors work fine on an RB30ET with stock management, regardless of the impedance difference. With my understanding of impedance, I can see how this might be the case (using high in place of low, but not the other way around). However I'm sure I read somewhere that there is also a timing difference in how high/low impedance injectors open. My question is, does anyone think I'll have problems using RB20DET ECCS injectors on my RB30ET, despite the impedance difference? I don't mind giving it a shot with a spare ECU (just in case) and even putting it on the dyno to verify the results, but I thought I'd check on here first. Obviously the problem is that uncleaned or original RB30ET/NICS injectors are hard to find, and there seems to be lots of sets of RB20DET ECCS injectors floating around. Thanks Nathan