natho

Hey all After a set of injectors from an RB30ET or NICS RB20DET in good original condition. I don't want anything thats been "cleaned" though, as I'm yet to come accross one of these injectors that doesn't leak internally a few months after being ultrasonic-ed. Really only need 3 but a set of 6 would be nice. Thanks Nathan

its strange how the aftermarket fan clutch manufacturers seem to think the VL turbo's have the bigger clutch/fan unit. i've only ever seen vl's with the smaller 7 blade fan. i've never seen this, and considering that the std vl (same as n/a) one is only about 10mm at most from the bottom of the radiator shroud, i dont see how anything bigger can fit on a vlt? weird...

does anyone have the part numbers, flow, and impedance of injectors for both the nics and eccs rb20det injectors? thanks

could you get the part number from those injectors (the one on the top not the a46-000 on the side) or a pic of the part number, thanks.

probably a good idea to get a decent cooler at the same time, and don't forget the factory clutch will probably give up pretty soon after too

your local petroject store should be able to sell them also

you're right, never really thought about that. for those who havent ever seen what we're on about i've attached a pic of au thermos and a pic of your standard aftermarket thermo.

i dont think there is anything "wrong" with the davies craig thermos, more that for it to work the thermos need to be held a little out from the radiator and in a shroud. i had some AU ones on the VL for a while and it did heat up a bit (never over half which is around 90) but the radiator was blocked and i've never put them back on since i had it fixed; i just bought a new clutch and left it. reason is that the AU thermos are so big they cover the whole radiator, not just the core, and it sticks out so much that the cooler piping im about to put on wouldnt fit (normally its between the ps pump pulley and the radiator tank with plenty of room). i talked to someone who had EL thermos on their R31 (which looks to me like same radiator as R32?) and they said they worked great. i think its worth a shot.

I've never come accross a VL with an 8 blade fan or the bigger clutch (like the R31/R32), and I've worked on a lot of them! The holden manual doesnt make any mention of it either. AFAIK all VL's have the 7 blade (noisy!) fan. Did a bit of looking around at u-pull it recently and almost all the rwd nissans there used the 8 blade fan with the same clutch as what i've seen in r31/r32's.

any ideas on where you're doing it?

not sure if the rb20det stock ecu uses sequential injection or not but i presume the pfc would? if thats the case, since only one injector is being fired at once instead of all 6 (or even groups of 3 if its like the RB30ET) then it may sound quieter. i heard an rb25det running once and you can pick the difference from the sound of the injectors straight away.

throttle position sensor?

all dependant on maintenance and driving habits really. i know of one rb30et with 300,000ish on it and its pulling 300rwhp. however if it detonated or sat on the limiter all the time im sure it wouldnt last long.

here is my vlt's engine bay. after sandblasting+clearcoating the manifold and crossover pipe, and re-painting the rocker cover, it's comup reasonably well

i normally go to bridgestone at noarlunga too! who's not there? is rob still around?

sorry i should have worded it better its not a reason to accept that its not doing what it should. eg i have friends and go well the my car overheats (or anything really) but it doesnt matter coz its old. my thinking is ok it overheats so replace the thermo fan thats not working - dont just use the 'its old' as an excuse to not do anything.

just because an r32 is 12 years old is no reason for it not to work properly. if its running rough or not starting properly then something somewhere is wrong...

it was worth the money for the peace of mind i suppose, turns out they werent badly blocked or anything. the spray pattern is just hand drawn so in my case it didnt show any difference. however the flow rates were all the same after and they did vary a bit before.

mildren gave me a chart with before and after flow results, both pulsed and held open, showing spray patterns before and after too. cost me only $22 per injector from memory (was <$150 for 6)

i had my vl turbo ones done at mildren race engineering. they are a bit more expensive than some places (because they charge extra for o-rings or new pintle caps) but they did the best out of the 3 places i've been to. i had two other sets for my previous cars cleaned at other places (one near city dismantlers and one in lonsdale) and both times after the clean the cars were harder and required more cranking to start, which is apparently an indication of leaking injectors (and the puff of black smoke one of them blew after every startup confirms that).

didnt realise the rb25de was an interferance engine, sorry!!

i've seen water pumps break before, and the fan come off... why cant you just put a new water pump and fan on? surely the fan coming off didnt mean that the engine itself is damaged.

am i missing something? that attachment comes down to me as 'clear.gif'. joels works fine but obviously the tracker is down!

the vl n/a box is similar the rb20 box the vl turbo box is similar to the rb25 box from what i've seen the only major differances are that the rb20 and rb25 boxes have double synchros on some gears whereas both vl boxes are all single synchro. plenty of poeple have put lots of power through a vl turbo box without a problem, and the only way i've heard of them breaking is when boosting hard with a modified motor in 5th gear. i doubt the RB25 box is 'MUCH' tougher, but i'd get one of those if i could purely because its newer and with the double synchros it should be a smoother box.

i had one like that on my rb30 a while ago, a guy i was talking to on the net made it for me. cant for the life of me remember who he is though! was only about $100 from memory which included him buying a secondhand gear.