Henros

Hi, What code did it flash when you did the HICAS diagnostic? Do a search and you will find the meaning of the code. I don't think there are wheel sensors for the front wheels. In any case, I was talking about the STEERING ANGLE SENSOR in this thread, which is mounted behind the STEERING WHEEL, not the wheel sensors mounted at the wheels. My HICAS diagnositic flashed code 23 - steering angle sensor neural or not present. Cheers.

Are you having problem with your steering angle sensor also?

A turbo timer is only WORTH 35 bucks. If you open up a commercial unit, you'd be surpised how small the component count is and how simple the circuit is. Why use a double-sided or a multiple layered board when a single-sided one will suffice? The kits mentioned do not use sensitive high-frequency circuits and as such there is no need for ground planes. Remember the art of designing is to do it in the simplest possible way, for the simplest things in life are the best, and easier to troubleshoot too, should the need arise. So why DIY when you can buy a ready-made product? Because the process of DIY is enormously rewarding, addictive and you can learn so much from it. The journey is just as important as the destination. Sydneykid, good luck and have fun building the kits. We certainly look forward to hearing the results from you.

If you did a search, you would've found this recent thread with pics posted: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=1090289

Yeah, Optimax is crap anyway, too much sulphur content. Ultimate and Synergy rule!

Here is a pic for the boost gauge connection.

It's not the rheostat, because he said he's got instrument lights. Have you checked the globes?

Ok Dudes, I just managed to fix the bastard! I took off the steering wheel and the steering angle sensor. I then took apart the sensor and had a look inside, found a small circuit board with not many components. The whole shebang is not unlike the ball computer mouse - it uses photointerrupters and a black wheel with slots to sense the position of the steering wheel. I took some measurements and found a shorted diode, replaced it and it's as good as new. No more HICAS lights, yay!

Hi Guys, Does anyone know where I can get a steering angle sensor (culprit of my newly developed HICAS problem) for my series 1 R33 and how much it would cost? Thanks.

Looks like you need to regas your a/c. Make sure you have a dye added when you regas so that if there's any leak, they can be easily detected.

So is the Japanese year (eg H15) used more often in Japan than the western year (eg 2003)?

Rezz, So I guess the period refers to the reigning emperor, right? I studied Japanese for 4 years back in high school, which is why I understood most of it, but they never taught us anything about the Japanese calendar!

OK. I wasn't sure about the "H" part. I thought the 7.1 meant 97/1... I guess H5.8 ~ H6.12 would be Aug 93 ~ Dec 94 then, right Rezz? By the way, what is the significance of the "H"?

Only necessary for cars made after January 97 Genuine Nissan accelerator wire bracket (For Aug 95 ~ Dec 96 model ECR33) Hope this helps.

Hippy, all white LEDs have a blueish tinge because they are essentially blue LEDs with an internal phosporous coating. The amount of blue various from manufacturer to manufacturer. You can get blue LEDs with different shades of blue. Jaycar for example, sell 470 nm blue and 505 nm blue/green LEDs. Steve, the extra diode is there to provide reverse polarity and trasient high voltage protection, the IN4004 has a reverse breakdown voltage of 400V. LEDs have much lower reverse breakdown voltage. In reality tho, you could do without it, but you need to increase the value of the resistor as the diode helps to drop around 0.7V which now has to be shed by the resistor. Merli, construction was half the fun, for me anyway.

Craved, the whole thing will plug straight in, no modes required. Hippy, they are just normal 1/2 Watt metal film resistors, more than adequate as the power dissipation is less than 1/5 W. I'm not quite sure about the second part of your question. Do you mean the socket sitting under the PCB? That's the original socket for the parker bulb.

Finished Product

PCB Soldered

PCB Layout

PCB Drilled

PCB

Here it goes guys, my first step by step guide 1. Remove the parkers from the car by disconnecting the wiring and twisting the sockets anticlockwise 90 degrees. This step is sure to be accompanied by much swearing the cutting yourself due to the awkward position and lack of clearance. Persistence is the key and may the force be with you. 2. Remove the 5W wedge lamp and measure the diameter of the socket opening (round end). I can't remeber the exact measurement but it should be around 13 to 14 mm. Cut either a blank PCB (printed circuit board) or a prototype strip board into a circle with the same diameter. You need 2 of those. The PCB approach is neater but needs etching to produce the pattern. The prototype board has pre-existing copper tracks but you're gonna have to work out the wiring pattern according to the circuit diagram yourself, but that shoudn't be hard. You can even use an insulating material without and copper tracks and just solder the component legs directly to each other. The role of the circular board, whatever you decide to use, is to provide a physical and electrical mounting platform for the electronic components. I will describe the PCB approach here. 3. The circuit diagram is given below (see LEDParkerCircuit.gif). As you can see, the LEDs are connected in a series-parallel configuration to minimise electrical dissipation. The resistor provides current limiting and the diode provides protection against reverse polarity and transient high voltages. I have used a resistor value which will drive the LEDs at 20 mA when the engine is on (13.8V). If you want to increase the brightness, you can reduce the value a bit, but I wouldn't go any lower than 51 ohms (which is 30 mA at 13.8V). 4. The PCB pattern was designed according to the circuit diagram, see diagram (LEDParkerPCB.jpg). Replicate the pattern with a permanent marker and let dry. Once dry, the PCB can be etched in either a iron III chloride or ammonium persulphate solution. The solutions are made by desolving appropriate amounts of the chemical powder in water. Read the instructions accompanying the chemicals. The ammonium persulphate solution need to be warm to work, so use hot water. 5. After etching, rinse the PCB in fresh water and clean off the permanent marker with metho or mineral turps. Rinse in water again. Drill holes in the PCB as shown in the diagram below (LEDParkerPCBDrilled.jpg). 6. Insert LEDs onto the board from the non-copper side and solder in place as shown in the diagram (LEDParkerPCBLayout.jpg). The resistor and diode are solder only at one end on the copper side. They also fuction as electrical contacts. See diagram (LEDParkerPCBSoldered.jpg). Note that I have used 2 resistor in parallel, that's because I didn't have any 68 ohm resistors at the time. 7. Bend the leg on the other side of the resistor and diode and apply liberal amounts of solder to they fit snuggly in the socket contacts. 8. Plug the LED module into the socket and test it on the car. If the LEDs do not light up, reverse the pins and try again. Once you'll satisfied, secure the PCB to the top of the socket with a little bit of superglue. This is to make sure that it doesn't get shaken loose by vibrations. The finished product is shown in LEDParkerAssembly.jpg 9. Reinstall the parkers and wiring. Enjoy your new blueish white parkers! Disclaimer: I take no responsiblity for anything that happens to you or your car should you give this a try. Cheers.

Ok guys, step by step guide coming up soon. By the way, I've also replaced the number plate illumination light with LEDs too! See pic. Although that does make my rego easier to read for the cops.

Thanks Sewid, I'll give it a try. Busky2k, it costed me about 15 bucks overall. I got the LEDs from www.lsdiodes.com. Only US 75c each, and US$2 postage to anywhere in the world.

Hey guys, Thanks for the replies. They're not off the shelf replacements, I made them myself. Each "bulb" is made up of six 5mm white LEDs, in 2 strings of 3. I added a dropping resistor (68 ohm) for current limiting and a diode (IN4004) for reverse polarity and transient high voltage protection. The whole package was soldered onto a very small PCB and plugged into the original socket. The only downside is that LEDs have a much narrower light cone, so that the light doesn't look as spread out as the original bulb, but the colour is a lot nicer. Cheers.