JasonO

How can the harmonic balancer slip if it's keyed on the Crank ? Where will the timing mark be if everything is OK ?

Craved, I set the gun to 15degrees, then adjusted the CAS so the first mark (the redish one) on the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) lined up with the mark on the lower timing belt cover. If you were looking into the engine bay, stright down on the pulley, then it was the first mark clockwise. ie. The one with the asterix on it * |__|__|__|__|__| -------> Direction of Rotation. My idle RPM at the time was abt 800rpm, is this too fast ? How do I get the PFC to agree with what I see on the timing gun ?

Hi Guys, I've been checking the base timing on my RB25DET with a digital timing light. After adjusting the CAS to display a very accurate 15 degrees against the marks on the crank pulley, I checked the Commander IGN monitor and found that the PFC was saying 18-20 degrees. What causes this, and which should I be adjusting the CAS to agree with the Crank pulley or the PFC ? Can sopmeone confirm the basic method of doing this, rpm's etc. so I know I'm not doing it wrong.

Can you show me the url of your thread on the www.gtr.co.uk forum where you were advised to buy a GTR ? I'll be surprised if that response went unchallenged.

WOW you've managed to slag off the complete UK Skyline scene in one post. Congratulations you'll go far :thumbdwn:

Dude, Where are you asking your questions, cos there is plenty of info available in the UK, and I know of at least three 400+rwhp RB25 builds in the UK already. You're certainly wrong about our fuel though, we are in the same boat, if not worse than our antipodean counterparts My car has been built in the UK and I expect to see an easy 400+rwhp from it, unfortunately it costs lots. £4k+ for turbo kit. £1k+ for the supporting act. (oil cooler / gaskets / piping etc.) £1k+ for intake. £2k+ for ECU, WBO2 and software. None of the above takes account of the labour hours !! With the power figure you have in mind, RB26 internals won't be necessary, and if you are going to go down the route of new pistons, you may aswell spec some proper ones from the likes of Tomei rather than making do with 2nd hand RB26 ones. There is plenty of discussion on this site, and on SDU and www.gtr.co.uk about the various crank / rod / piston options, yu'll just need to use the search engine to find them. (Sorry I know it's a pain in the butt, but it's the only way to find it all.) Good luck with your project

Try removing it and plugging it back in again, it's pretty common for the plug not to go all the way home.

TPS at 0.43V will be OK, but may cause the engine to kind of stutter/surge a bit on very light throttle, ie. when you are in very slow moving traffic. If it doesn't stutter/surge, then I'd leave it as is. TPS at 0.6V will be enough to lift the ECU out of the Idle Control Loop, so effectively it's running on a single cell of the INJ/IGN map and may not be the most economic idle available to you. You will most likely find that at this setting, it struggles to maintain a level idle when you switch on the Air Con, or put an electrical load on the engine.

R33 Gts25t idle instability issues... thread on SDU. It's a long read, but just about everything is covered init.

R31 Power, I was involved in a lengthy debate about this over on SDU a while back, we never really finally figured it out but we did discover a few critical items. You need to have the idle set up properly, before expecting the ECU to be able to control it. To do this you need to unplug the Idle Control Valve, and adjust the Idle Set Screw on the side of the AAC assembly to get your idle into a ball park of where the PFC expects it to be. You also need to adjust the idle stop on the throttle body, but only if the butterfly is not closing cleanly when you lift off. You also need to set the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage accurately to show less than 0.5V at idle, 0.49 would provide the best response, but may not always appear closed, so aim for 0.45V. You can see this voltage on the PFC Commander while you adjust it. To adjust the voltage, you need to loosen the two screws on the side of the throttle body, leaving them just nipped up enough that you can lightly tap the TPS around on the spindle to adjust the voltage. Tap the TPS around while observing the Commander which you've pulled through to the engine bay. Make sure you tighten both the screws when your finished adjusting it. First thing I would check is the TPS voltage, it only takes a second. Then make adjustments from there. I'll see if I can find the thread on SDU, and link to it for you.

Well, we're recomending to block the PCV line on a vent to atmosphere setup, so if you block the plenum side of the PCV line, and use the PCV port on the side of the rocker cover, you get a very tidy catchcan setup with only one hose

So, would it be acceptable to plumb the PCV line to the catch tank, and leave the joiner as is, with the tank vented to atmosphere ?

SK, How would you plumb it, if emissions were not an issue, as in a 100% race engine. Metohd 1, 2 or 3 ?

O2 sensor could be on the way out, as it only really comes into play when idling or cruising. Does it do the same if you cruise at say 50mph or 80mph ?

Jamie's or mine ?

Hmmmm, It's been said before, but the knock reading on the PFC is an arbitrary value. It is an indication of knock only not a scientific measurement. The differences between sensors and each particualr engine is enough to make so many differences in tolerance that you can only ever use it a s a rule of thumb. I know that when my car was tuned previously the dyno op insisted that he could hear no knock from the engine even though the PFC readout was displaying upwards of 60. I have occasionaly seen in excess of 90 (but like Steve I would always lift off in this situation) and having recently stripped my engine found absolutely no det related damage. My new build shows less than 30 even at more than 1 bar of boost

Awurth, That list is witness to a growing obsession, it's been over three years in the making But it fair adds up...... I started out with a NISMO exhaust, then I didi the suspension, then added a PFC, then the DoLuck bits, then I swapped the exhaust for the HKS, followed by the Flywheel and Clutch, and the recent demise of my stock turbo, has got me here. It's a long road, but I'm certain it'll be worth it. I picked up my wheels from the refurb shop this afternoon, and should have her rolling tomorrow. Can't wait :flower:

That's exactly what they'll do

Steve, Needs to hit the road before the end of this week. I have a trip to the Isle of Man that I don't want to miss. I've been working on it like a :ghost: since last week. B-Man, Two reasons really, one is that it didn't need doing, and the other is that it would take about the same budget again to do it. I'm saving for it already and should the bottom end let me down I'll just have to fix it.

FAT32, O's Factory is a friendly name for a small collection of highly skilled engineers I know. These are the guys I turn to when I need to have some sort of special processing on a part, or bespoke manufactured items. If you look closely at the breather holes in the cam covers, you'll notice that they have been tapped out to take a fitting. The fittings are being specially manufactured from billet alloy to suit. Bass Junky, I've still got a wish list that's about twice as long as the spec sheet :burnout:

Thanks for the comments guys, there's more than just fancy paint going on here though. I'm hoping it packs enough punch to go with the looks, here's a snippet of the spec. list....... Intake HKS Racing Suction Kit High Resolution Z32 AFM Blitz BOV R34 Nur Spec Intercooler The Garage Custom Intake Pipes Greddy Intake Plenum CUSCO Oil Catch Tank Exhaust System HKS 1000PS Titanium Drag System HKS Front Pipe O's Factory De-CAT pipe HKS Stainless Steel Hi Mount Manifold : Ceramic Coated HKS Special Racing External Wastegate HKS GT3037 turbo Silver Plated Hardware Engine HKS Metal Head Gasket Head : Port Matched and Polished Block : Port Matched Silver / Purple Flip Painted Cam Covers O's Factory Breather Fittings ECU APEXi Power FC APEXi Boost Control Kit APEXi FC Commander FC Datalogit Software Innovate LM1 Wideband Lambda Lube & Cooling ARC Oil Cooler GReddy Oil Filter Relocation Kit Earls Hoses and Fittings NISMO N1 Water Pump NISMO N1 Thermostat Fuel System HKS Fuel Pump HKS Fuel Rail APEXi Fuel Pressure Regulator Denso 550cc Injectors Ignition GReddy Racing 8 Spark Plugs HKS Circle Earth Kit Exide Maxxima 900DC Battery Transmission HKS GD Pro twin Plate Clutch HKS Clutch Actuator Pin HKS Lightened Flywheel Suspension KYB Climb Gear Shocks KYB Climb Gear Springs DoLuck Anti Roll Bars Tanabe Sustec Strut Brace Brakes Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pads Wheels Front : Circlar GTA 17 x 9 Lightweight 2 Piece Forging Rear : Circlar GTA 17 x 10 Lightweigth 2 Piece Forging Tyres Front : Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 235 x 45 x 17 Rear : Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 255 x 40 x17 Bodywork NISMO Front Grille NISMO Side Skirts NISMO High Level Rear Spoiler ICE Head : Kenwood 9020 MP3 DVD Head : PYLE DVD 130 Display : Pyle PLHR56 x 2 Front Mid : Kenwood PSR 170mm Front Tweeter : Kenwood PSR 30mm Rear Speakers : Kenwood PSR 170mm Coaxial Sub Woofer : Infinity Perfect 10.1 250mm Free Air Amplifier : Rockford Fosgate DSM

A few of you guys here know that for the last few months I've been busy rebuiling my engine after blowing the turbo. I'd like to say a special thanks to Steve for all the info he's given me in the past weeks, without his help I'd still have a bundle of unresolved problems. Oh and here's a photo of what I'm on about, enjoy........

Sorry guys, I've double checked the turbo this morning, and found that it only has one hole not two as I described earlier. It's kind of difficult to see. My original description should have read as follows --

No they require the correct impedance injectors for the particular model you have. Running the wrong impedance injectors will result in the circuit within the PFC burning out !!

The threaded portion of the hole is about 10mm dia. , the oilway is about 3.0mm dia. and it has two holes in the side of it about 1.2mm dia. The oil does not feed straight through this restrictor, it comes out the sides, like this...... Oil In 3mm | | | | | = 1.2mm Oil Out | | This is a brand new HKS GT3037 which I purchased recently.