istdercollen

I was talking with a guy the other day, just parking lot chat, and I said my car was headed back to the states as a racecar (unable to be titled for street use) and he said,"They don't allow Skylines in the States because they have too much torque." I just said I had to get going, and have a nice day.

I knew a guy with an automatic NSX one time, and I asked him why, he said he had a knee replacement surgery and couldn't shift comfortably anymore. Maybe this guy has a similar situation, or maybe he just wants to embarrass people even further after beating them down the drag strip.

next chance i get I will be all over it! Weight update... Removed rear seat and rear seat safety belts for 31 pound/14.1kg reduction. Stock Trunk Carpeting - 11.5lbs/5.2kg Stock Floor Mats - 13.0lbs/5.9kg!! Stock Jack/Tire Iron - 4.5lbs/2.05kg Stock Spare Tire - 34.4LBSSSS/15.6kg Nissan Air Purifier,sound deadening behind back seat, car jack - 9 lbs/4.1kg metal plate behind the back seat - 6.4 pounds/2.9kg Stock suspension 57.8lbs/26.3kg and HKS Hipermax 47.0/32.3kg - 10.8lbs/6kg net loss door panels 14lbs/6.35kg carpet and various pieces of plastic 16.2/7.3kg Center console 7.6lbs/3.5kg passenger seat 34lbs/15.4kg (with rail attached) Difference in test pipe/cat 6lbs/2.7kg new seat/rail vs old seat/rail 5lbs/2.3kg dash stripped to shell - 3lbs/1.36kg difference in exhausts 24.2lbs/11kg all sound deadening 12lbs/5.5kg radiator and fan 15lbs/6.8kgs AC/Heater stuff behind dashboard 21lbs/9.5kg = 270.4 pounds/126.6kgs Stock R33 GT-R 3388lbs/1540kg Lost Birds R33 3109.4lbs/1413.4kgs. Just gonna keep it updated so that I have a record somewhere of it. should be below 1400kg before the end of the week as the compressor and AC lines are still attached, along with some other stuff coming out. also did some work on the seat and it's back another 8cm and down another 2cm. I'm 1.91m tall and my eyes are now level with the top of the dashboard, which by the way makes the car incredibly difficult to park.

I think he sees the JWC stamp and is calling the wheels JIC. the JWC stamp looks like JIC. that's on every wheel manufactured in Japan

you asked for help in the first post, now you're telling everyone else how to do do it. ...

Porsche GT3 Green Dodge Viper Lime Green Honda NSX/S2000 Lime Green Metallic

It's clearcoated courtesy of the Lost Birds Paint Shop... aka me. haha. How powerful of a buffer would I need? The one I have now is a $30 on/off thing. Doesn't spin up that fast, so I'm wondering if it would do the trick. I can't find them for anything I'm willing to pay. lol. We have UPGarage here in japan, or "U"sed "P'arts Garage and they always have some for sale. It's a ntionwide network of stores that will ship to your local store. the last set they had was brand new in the box still for about 1750 AUD. no thanks! you can use the search box to look for whatever. just type R32 R33 or R34 and see what they have. or type RB26DETT UPGarage

polished the headlights, and removed the A/C radiator/fan. compressor is next but i didnt go to the garage today. the radiator and fan weighed 15lbs/6.8kgs Weight update... Removed rear seat and rear seat safety belts for 31 pound/14.1kg reduction. Stock Trunk Carpeting - 11.5lbs/5.2kg Stock Floor Mats - 13.0lbs/5.9kg!! Stock Jack/Tire Iron - 4.5lbs/2.05kg Stock Spare Tire - 34.4LBSSSS/15.6kg Nissan Air Purifier,sound deadening behind back seat, car jack - 9 lbs/4.1kg metal plate behind the back seat - 6.4 pounds/2.9kg Stock suspension 57.8lbs/26.3kg and HKS Hipermax 47.0/32.3kg - 10.8lbs/6kg net loss door panels 14lbs/6.35kg carpet and various pieces of plastic 16.2/7.3kg Center console 7.6lbs/3.5kg passenger seat 34lbs/15.4kg (with rail attached) Difference in test pipe/cat 6lbs/2.7kg new seat/rail vs old seat/rail 5lbs/2.3kg dash stripped to shell - 3lbs/1.36kg difference in exhausts 24.2lbs/11kg all sound deadening 12lbs/5.5kg radiator and fan 15lbs/6.8kgs = 249.4 pounds/117.1kgs Stock R33 GT-R 3388lbs/1540kg Lost Birds R33 3130.4lbs/1422.9kgs.

if it's set up like the GTR, you have to unscrew the upper screws and take that piece off. pull the dash fascia off and undo the lower two screws to remove the lower piece of moulding, then there are two screws hold on the speedo. The connection is 99% likely not to be loose. they click into place and need plenty pull to undo them.

The original Eleanor from the 1973 H.B. Halicki Classic. "Gone in Sixty Seconds" Mach 1 Ford Mustang No computer graphics, no stuntmen. 45 minute car chase. RIP H.B. Halicki, who not surprisingly, died filming an action movie. There was only one Eleanor for the filming of the movie, which was low budget. Here it is today.

maybe you ran out of gas. Not a very informative post, really.

my best advice to you is for you to go buy a a hood/front bar, or something from a junkyard and try sanding and priming that. if it looks acceptable to you, then move on to the car. I have painted several cars, and let me be honest with you, the first car i painted looked very novice. It was presentable, but just not having any background leads to a lot of setbacks that you will be ill equipped to address once it's too late. practice on junkyard parts and see what happens. if you take anything down to the steel on your car, you will have to be ready to prime it or it will rust, and you'll have to resand. If you primer a piece and don't paint it, the moisture in the air will get into the primer, and it will no longer be a smooth surface. things like that happen, and before you know it, you are redoing everything.

I would definitely just take the 100kg less. especially on a nice tire like the RE55

ehhh, I would get a random orbit DA sander and do it. don't use super coarse grit. and keep the speed down on the sander, if you turn it to full blast, you can wind up with low spots that you won't notice. 320 grit to start, and finish it with an even finer grit (800 or higher even). sanding down a whole car by hand.... no thanks. Even with the pneumatic sander it will take hours and hours of your time. In the end you are trading time for dollars. It's invaluable experience, but if you only have a day here or there to work on it, you may start to feel like it will never get done.

It will look like an R33 with TE37s except the spokes are skinnier. They will look great as long as the offset is right for your car. But you are right, not really any pics of that setup, which truthfully is another reason why you should do it.

I had to look, the Torinos aren't side mount. Besides finding a specific rail made for that seat to go in that car there aren't alot of options. Side mount seats are better because generally if you can find a rail made for your car you can use it with your seat. Good luck. I had a bottom mount sparco a couple year ago for an S2000 and came to the same situation you are in. My option was to sell the seat and find something better suited.

If this is a side mount bucket, just get the bride rails that go with your car. I have Bride rails and a Sparco seat.

damn, gotta find a cheap way to ship to Australia and set up shop, lol. in AUD my price is 14.50 to my door.

I'd like to thank Fast Car Magazine! Maybe when the car is done, they will be interested in a bigger spread! Build is on hiatus until after I purchase Allison an engagement ring. Shhhhhh!

around 180.. maybe less. I'm just going with a rough 15% drivetrain loss. But guaranteed the drivetrain isn't MORE efficient than that.

same thing happens in mine. How much is redline per liter there?? I can get it for 13USD per liter (well quart, but they are very similar)

looks great. I'm not sure how worried about it you are, but the brake and gas pedals seem a bit far away from each other for heel-toe and the like. just an observation, not knocking the work put in it in any way.

you just said it cost 118 dollars a liter in the other post..?????? now it's 1000??? If you were quoted 1000 per litre, someone was trying to take advantage of you... And just because it's all over the threads of a message forums, it's not automatically true. I've seen some of the worst advice handed out over the internet for car repairs and the like.

posted these up before elsewhere, but why not here too...

it would take no more than 8 liters (if you poured some out for your homeys first) to paint the entire exterior of an R32. with all of the additives for the basecoat and materials for clearcoat, there's no way the total cost of paint supplies could exceed 2,000 dollars. So now you are paying 5,000+ dollars for labor. I'm not saying people haven't paid that for a paint job. but for a basic respray on a car that needs minimal bodywork, that would be excessive in my book. If you throw wetsanding and polishing into the mix, it would start to get pricey however.