Gav

The problem with what you are proposing is that you are expecting the job to go smoothly and be left with a running car after "x" hours or so work by the machanic. In reality, the machanic has no way of knowing that the turbos you have are indeed a true "bolt-on" affair and that ALL of the required parts (including gaskets, crush washers etc) are available for him. There is also the possibility that exhaust studs may snap or he may find other issues that should logically be dealt with (eg water or oil connectors leaking) at the same time. In an ideal world, it would all go smoothly as you hope. In reality there will probably be minor "issues" that crop up that are best (and can be quickly) dealt with in fully equipped workshop.

For what version of Windows?

Listen to this advice. The best (and first mod) that you should do is to get a daily driver/bunky in addition to your R. It not only saves you money but stress an grief when you need to drive/park somewhere dodgy. You are also mor inclined to do servicing and mods yourself as you won't be stuck for transport if it doesn't go as quickly as you expect (which in my case is almost everytime :laughing-smiley-014: )

Sold pending payment

No locking nuts. Open end ensures that the wheel studs can't jam up against the end of the nut (say in a domed type) should they be too long.

These are brand new genuine Work Wheel nuts in high tensile steel. These are much stronger than aluminium and are of the open end type that is required in some catagories of motorsport. There are 20 pieces and fit Nissan and Subaru wheel studs (M12x1.25). Price is $80 or $85 including Australia wide delivery. PM if you are interested. Gav

Jason No reply on my outstanding refund yet despite PMs and emails - please address this. Gav

The short answer to your question is that these terbs will probably be better suited to a track RWD car than a big single. A wide torque curve with slightly lower top end will be much easier to drive than a peaky "torque monster". Shuffle can be almost eliminated by tuning and boost controller set-up. If you haven't already got a set of manifolds, consider a bridged manifold also. Good luck. Gav

OK - I've got one. Need a second unit desperately (either that or I'm gonna have the fastest spooling RB28 out there :laughing-smiley-014: )

I'm running GTS4 ratios front and rear. No harm except your speedo will be out, although this can be corrected by installing a GTS4 speedo at the gearbox. Other downside is that you will have less top end.

New or low km units required to suit GT-R. Please PM.

Best response of the thread goes to r33_racer. The technique is about fast lap times more than mechanical sympathy and fast lap times are about smooth driving. The less often you upset the inertia of the car (either braking or down changing gears) the better. By combining both into a single movement (i.e. heel/toe downchange) you reduce the inertia change before the corner to a single event.

Other option on the PS pump is to swap it out for an R33 GT-R pump which doesn't have the hydraulic takeoff for HICAS (RB30 CEFFY's suggestion is the cheaper alternative however).

Was great to meet you again Snowy and hope to be able to steer the R with a bit more authority the next time we catch up. Congrats again to you and Blaise. Cheers Gav

Many thanks for the offers guys. Managed to round up some Z33 rims today and they actually clear the front brakes better than my S1 Workmeisters. Cheers Gav

I need a couple of standby rims just in case for this weekend - can anyone loan me 2 rims in a 10x18". Any damage will of course be paid for!

Nice results so far Paul. My GT-RS just seemed to love boost and really came alive after 20 psi. Very interested to see how you go with a race fuel tune.

Had a chat with them today. They used to be McEntees, now with new owner (and name obviously). Their work used to be very good. They are hell busy ATM, but hopefully can fit me in before Autosalon. Will let you know how they go if I use them.

Need to get a few dents and chips sorted out along with a mild guard roll. Can anyone recommend someone preferably around the Ozzie Park area?

Sorry mate - in Darwin at the moment for a friend's wedding. Now 30C, blue skies and lotsa cold beer :-) Anyway, haver a great birthday bash and hope to catch up soon. Cheers Gav

Chalk-and-cheese type of improvement, which is kinda what you would expect when comparing Pagid race pads with Bendix road pads. Most suprising was how well the Federal rubber coped with the very wet track, although it could be expected that the deep groove pattern should help with the water dispersion away from the contact face.

Snowman Was good to catch up today with you and Blaise at Barbagallos today. Had a ball on the wet track after you left, although had to be on your toes avoiding the odd rwd sliding out in front of you Hope Collie went well. Cheers Gav

I know of 5 RB engines in WA running Pauter rods (including mine). Many of these have been rebuilt after engine failures with the Pauter rods surviving just fine. Their manufacturing tolerences are extremely tight both in dimensions and weight also. Can't say if they are better or worse than other designs, but I would probably use them again.

SOLD (and paid for)

Thanks guys - should be enough info to get me sorted!