Gav

A great price for a very high quality product. I have the same brand rods which survived a massive engine failure in my old RB26 and are still going strong in my RB28 application with over 550 hp atw. Oh - free bump btw :-)

Relax - no offence meant to you, just an in-house (in-Forum?) joke about the use of D-Jetro. It is the preferred version of 2 or 3 tuners in the West of Australia. On the East side the L-Jetro is more commonly preferred by tuners. I use a D-Jetro on my setup (see the RB26 upgrade thread as previously recommended for my specs). Cheers Gav

I think he's an undercover agent trying to start an East Coast vs West Coast war with GT-R owners :laughing-smiley-014:

I don't have one to hand, but I have seen a T04Z overlaid on my graph of GT-RS terbs and the response is basically identical when running standard RB26 cranks. The T04Z runs away at the top end providing an additional 50 rwhp or so. I can't comment on how they both would compare on a stroker crank, but I imagine the response on the T04Z would improve as it does with the GT-RS. In hindsight (what a wonderful thing eh?) I believe that there are 3 choices for the HKS junkie when upgrading an RB26: GT-SS for a fast streeter 25/30s for a good track car T04Z for track/drag (or streeter with a stroker crank or RB30) Still, it's kinda nice to be different and make decent hp with low mounts

The Cima (Y33 from memory) was available with a factory option of VH41 engine with ATTESSA. Unfortunately only with an automatic transmission. This may offer an easier route to a V8 GT-R conversion still retaining ATTESSA. Interesting concept!

Ideally you should insulate the dump pipes (heat wrap or ceramic coat) so it doesn't really matter what metal you use from an asthetics (i.e. bling) point of view. Mild steel generally handles heat cycling (heating up and cooling down) better than stainless steel and has a lower coefficient of expansion (less likely to crack welds amongst other things).

The ones that NO RSPECT got should be 0.8mm (i.e. don't have the -11 suffix)

Perfect timing - arrive back in Oz (for good this time) a couple of days before this

Ahh.......pushrods, how "quaint"

Learn how to double declutch. Generally not taught these days but this smooths down shifts remarkably and reduces wear on the gearbox (doesn't hurt on upshifts either ) Being an old bastard and all, I had to learn this when driving trucks without syncros.

Here's a vid of a BNR32 at the 'ring. Click Here No idea if it's modified or not, but lets you compare torque and speed as it progresses around the track.

Ahhh...looked familiar :sorcerer: What's happening on the induction side of things - is that a single throttle body manifold I spy? Are we also going to MAP load sensors sir?

By dump pipes I assume you mean the extension pipes straight off the turbos as opposed to the two into 1 front pipe that connects to the cat. In my opinion/experience, dump pipes don't make a huge difference to moderately sized turbos like the the ones you plan to install. I also don't think you will quite reach the goal of 350 rwkw even with the dump pipes fitted. If you are on a tight budget, I would spend the cash on dyno time optimising cam timing and retuning to bring boost on earlier. Good luck, Gav

What size snails are those sticking to the side?

I got a big chunk out of my windscreen on the very same cruise! Let me know how much to replace the screen if you get it done.

As you have said - get it on the dyno after you fit the terbs and the FPR to see what the AFRs are at peak load and boost. Also very helpful if the dyno operator has a fuel flow meter to check what the flow is back to the fuel tank at these peak loads - if your fuel pump is original the performance may be down significantly. Opinions vary considerably as to when you need to add additional pumps in series, however I'm running a 2.8L with twin GT-RS terbs and have sufficient flow with a single Nismo (drop in replacement) fuel pump with a dedicated power feed.

I hear you - I'm replacing my blue joiners with black also (prefer the toned down look). Turbo Hoses Cheers Gav

Is that a Panda that has been plumbed back or venting to atmosphere?

The age and underbonnet heat is taking it's toll on the various electrical connectors - particullarly the coil packs and water/air temp sensors etc. Can these be sourced and changed out individually? I don't really want to fork out for new loom and harness sections just to replace cracked connector plugs.

I'm biased, but black really does look good on these - especially with classic Japanese rims (SSR Professors, WorkMeister S1 etc). Obvious downside is ther show the dirt and get hot in summer.

Onya Paul - I knew someone would have a better memory than me!

I don't know if it helps you, but I found a pic of my HKS dump pipes before I fitted them. Click Here I don't recall having the "dents" that you show, however from memory the pipe wall is bloody thick and I would think unlikely such dents could occur after leaving the HKS factory. Does it look like the dents would aid access to any of the flange bolts? Just a thought that this may be some modification that has been deliberately specified to help with installation. On an up side, I wouldn't worry about them as they will have bugger effect on final performance in y opinion. I would recommend that whilst you ceramic coat these along with your front pipes to help keep underbonnet temps down. Even better to do the terb exhaust housings as well if you have them off at the same time.

F*ck my brown dog! Well done Bobbo - I guess this means I can stop torturing my poor black Datto now as 10s seem a little blaze now a days :-)