Gav

Mine is an HKS unit that I bought second hand and then ceramic coated (done after this pic). New I think that they're around $1,500 (check Nengun etc for pricing). I can't say how much this helped on it's own, as I changed ECU's at the same time (went to D-Jetro). Just out of interest, have someone monitor the AFM voltages when you get the shuffling. The shuffling can sometime be bads enough to cause air reversion in the AFMs.

The symptoms sound like compressor shuffle. This is quite common with the large low mounts terbs and seperate pod filters. Adding aftermarket BOVs can also worsen the problem as the standard GT-R BOV arrangement also acts as an equalising bridge on the intake side of the terbs. I would suggest: * refit the std BOV setup * get the ECU retuned of fit a PFC as suggested (pay particular focus on the transition points around neutral boost) * consider a bridged terb manifold Cheers Gav

I've only tried pump fuel. Unfortunately haven't had the opportunity to catch up with Pete (pnblight) and go for a spin yet - hope to early next year when I'm back. Did drive Adrian's JUN 2.7L with 25/30s fitted. Much of a muchness in response although I did feel that I had a greater top end. Simon's 2.6L with the Garrett TO4Z is just nuts. Suprisingly, Not much difference in response but just crazy top end response.

No - the dyno numbers that I'm producing on the GT-RS terbs are about right compared with others. I believe DirtGarages's numbers (which are much higher than I've seen others publish) weren't produced on pump fuel from memory (correct me if I'm wrong). Agree that the single T04Z is indeed a nice bit of kit, but now that I'm set up with the low mounts I'll stay with them. Presently fitting longer duration exhaust cam which should extend the top end some without hopefully not losing too much low down. Very little experimenting with cam timing so far, so should be interesting with some more dyno time. EDIT: posted at the same time as R31Nismoid regarding race fuel. The terbs and fuel system are set up for mid 500s awhp, so I really don't feel like I'm being "held back". The extra good bits are really just for reliability and longevity. What the dyno graph doesn't really convey is the very broad spread of torque available which is what I set out to achieve - the main use being track days and motokhanas. Cheers Gav

Not really sure that a single number has any relevence in this context. I'm guessing that a pair can flow enough air for around 700 hp at the engine?

If you are referring to low mount turbos, then indeed you've been told rubbish and a simple check of the RB26 Turbo Upgrade thread stickied in this section would have answered your question. I'm running the largest HKS-GTRS terbs (largest low mounts from HKS) on a fairly seriously built motor and can only achieve mid 500s rwhp. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2137700 Cheers Gav

Don't want to drag the thread too far off topic but really enjoyed the response from GT-RS terbs when I was back in Oz in April. Going to a larger EX cam (both cams now step 2 272) to help breathing at the top end even more. With the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, I probably should have gone to a single T04Z for the sake of simplicity and even more head room, but to be honest the responsive mid 500's at the wheels that I'm getting is plenty for the intended use being track days and hill climbs etc.

Opinions differ, but most would agree that you are the upper limit or beyond of flow efficiency of the std cooler. To put some science behind it isn't expensive or difficult, however. Get a cheap temp probe (or ideally 2) from somewhere like Jaycar and temporarily fit into the piping before and after the intercooler to see the efficiency. Cost me around $12 a couple of years ago from memory? If you already have a PFC fitted, it is interesting to compare the air temp shown by the sensor on the plenum compared with the temp probe that you add. The plenum (factory) sensor generally reads high as it is quite short and is affected by plenum body temp as well as the air flowing through it (i.e. the plenum is hot from engine bay radiant heat).

Paul's a "card carrying" AFM lover. Either version in the hands of a good tuner will deliver good results. The critical part is the tuner you use and trust - speak with him is to which he prefers and recommends for your goals.

See the following for a brief but (I believe) accurate summary: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attesa http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATTESA_E-TS

Import duty is 5% then there is the GST on goods, postage and the duty itself. In other words a tax on a tax! Works out to around 16-17% of the value if you are unlucky enough to get picked up. See: http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=5549 Cheers Gav

You can buy new plates and parts for the HKS clutches - may be worth checking out prices of this before committing to the outlay of a brand new unit. Xspeed sourced sprung centres for my second hand HKS twin plate without too many problems. This is supporting abuse from well over 500 awhp. Won't hurt bto give them a call first.

Coils are the "usual suspects" when diagnosing misfires, however, check the ignitor module as a culprit of hot temp misfires. Also worth checking the condition of the coil pack harness - particularly the connectors and the earthing lug.

The ignitor module is the same between the RB20 and the RB26 for the R32 (not sure about the R33 and R34). Yes - you will still need the ignitor. The coils are simply a functional replacement for the factory coils (some say they are no better/different). Out of interest I'm using an Splitfire coils with my PFC as well as and HKS Twin Power CDI system. Probably a bit of an overkill but I no longer get and strange ignition misses.

This is my setup. See comments in the RB26 thread or PM me if you want specific info on the GT-RS terbs with an HKS 2.8L kit. Cheers Gav

Why do you only want 4 rods and pistons?

Sort of a tricky question - do you mean including the sump and front diff case?

I think BD4s over east are your only option in Australia. (http://www.bd4s.com.au) Pity - would loveto see a local fittment of the kit!

Actually I disagree. Stainless steel expands and contracts (i.e. warps) more, is more prone to cracking welds and is more expensive. It is also doesn't provide as good "accoustics" for exhaust pipe as plain old mild steel. If you are going to wrap/coat the front pipes anyway, I don't see any advantages stainless steel.

AFMs work best with an even flow of air through the body. If the AFM is too close to points of sudden air pressure and volume changes (eg throttle bodies, blow off valves, inlet manifold etc) then you get "reversion" flow through the AFM body. This is perhaps most noticeable in an uneven idle or in near stalling on sudden deceleration. One of the functions of the mesh in AFMs is to ensure a smooth flow of air through the body.

Is this an intercooler or an oil cooler?

Do you have a link for a supplier of these?

Perhaps not as Ricey as it first seems. Purged CO2 could be used for cooling the intercooler I guess?

Hi Paul obviously a LOT of work and thought has gone into this. I take my hat off to you and those involved with the development. A couple of questions from me that may be of interest to others: For the R32 owners, can one map be set up for RWD only? Can the output be sent to a Datalogit unit in order to have a central (and single) logging unit? Cheers Gav