Gav

It was a while ago and I don't have a very good piccy, but I think it was at the top of the rib in the red circle.

I took leaf out of Spinal Tap's book - all my dials "go to 11"

Chill man - only having a stir. The crack is in a known weak place (as you say) and actually is more a function of the balancing and revs that the engine sees. In my case it was caused by poor harmonics and high revs. Was certainly a deciding factor in me spending the $$$ on a full counter weighted crank, ATI damper and close attention to balancing.

No - just the same tuner

I bet it cracked between 3 and 4 cylinders near the oil feed to the terbs.

A quick search revealed: R32 Pinout Gav

Bosch pumps (040 for example) will easily support this figure. You can use an 044 (external type) with a bit more modification. Try this thread for help: Click Here Recommend direct power feed to the pump via a relay switched from the original circuit. This provides a higher voltage supply to the pump (and therefore higher flow rate and pressure). Finally, a good fuel regulator (Nismo is a straight bolt on affair), will allow you to up the fuel pressure in the fuel rail if required. Cheers Gav

I suspect that the R32 GT-R is very similar if not identical as the ECUs are interchangable. Do a search for where to download the R32 manual.

If you are in Perth, and you want to stick with a single plate, then I recommend that you see either Ken at Hyperdrive (Malaga) or Ross Autoclutch (Ossie Park).

I used cardboard from a Weeties packet once for a 138 "Grey" motor thermostat gasket. I guess silicon (sic) is plenty good enough for an RB motor??

Well, there's no such thing as a cheap and reliable RB rebuild. Given that aftermarket rods have also come down in price, I would factor those in the rebuild. So essentially looking at new pistons, rods, bearings, crank collar, machining, assembly and new fluids and service parts (gaskets, hoses, belts etc). My "thumb suck" is that you should be allowing for around $6 to 8k including removal and fitting. I'm assuming that you have some steel wheel terbs already fitted and that these are in good nick as is your clutch, gearbox, transfer case............you get the idea - welcome to the (expensive) world of GT-R ownership!

There's days worth of reading if you search and sift through past posts. You also need to be more specific in what your plans are for the car. If you don't have firm plans and goals - then set yourself some and stick to them! Examples are: * how long will you have the car? * what will you use it for (drags, track, daily driver)? * what is your budget? Once you are clear in your own mind of the above then it is easy to set a realistic path to achieve the goals.

Pauter titanium rods USD 1,350ea equates to just under 11 grand Ozzie for a set of 6 plus shipping. I don't believe there's import duty on goods from the USA anymore, but you may be liable for GST on top.

I would expect that the reliability of the "titanium" (actually its alloy of titanium, aluminium and vanadium) rods has more to do with the machining process than with the material itself. The reason that forging is so popular is that it retains the advantages of the even microstructure of the billet without introducing "micro faults" caused by machining.

I'm running one of these on my RB28 - nice bit of kit but the 25% overdrive keeps shredding AC belts when I forget to turn off the AC switch (shouldn't be a problem for you 'tho).

Sorry - just me being obtuse and starting another "conspiracy theory" Definately just a poor quality clock - probably as a result of going way over budget on the development of the GT-R and the production budget had probably dried up by the time they got to finishing bits like the clock.

The clock only fails when the boost has been raised above factory levels. The sneaky Nissan engineers cleverly designed the clock to fail when the AFM voltage exceeded a certain level. When the owners complained of the clock not working, the Nissan dealers simply plugged in the Consult diagnostics tool and noted that the boost level was excessive. This then gave them the evidence needed to refuse engine warranty claims later on. Or on second thoughts.........maybe the clocks are just cheap pieces of crap.

Slightly off topic - but I converted my HKS solid centre twin plate to a sprung centre and what a difference! Apart from the typical twin plate rattle when the clutch is depressed, you would think it's a stock clutch (almost).

This thread reminds me of the passage in "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas" where they pump like 100psi into the tyres of the Caddy lol

There's also a fair chunk of weight saving in the GTS-T without the front diff, drive shafts etc compared to the R. Keep the modifications focused on good low down torque, set the suspension up for traction (plenty of squat) and don't compromise of tyre quality and you'll have a very quick and balanced car.

They may be getting cheaper but they're still ugly

Very easy to test if the vacuum assist is working. Compare the clutch pressure with the engine running and with it off. If it is working you will lnow straight away (the difference is that great).