Gav

What would you like to know?

Many thanks Dave! - all makes sense now. Cheers Gav

Thanks - I wrongly assumed that the cone spacer positively located the bolt into the cone recess of the hub. The cone shape is obviously to give the rose joint clearance to move. I am now assuming that the "castellated" end of the nut locates into the bottom of the hub (it's exactly the right diameter) to lock onto the hub? The pic below shows this nut on the bolt but not located into the hub. Is this correct?

OK - can someone confirm if the rear LCA's bolt onto the rear hub in this configuation: The reason I ask is the bolt threads don't have enough travel to lock everything together solid. Note I have even added a washer from the original setup shown at the tip of the screwdriver I would be surprised if I need to add more washers as the Ikeya Formula stuff normally comes with all that's required. A pic of the bolt and cone bush also for reference. Note that I would expect the castellated nut to sit on the thread as shown below to allow a cotter pin to secure this nut. In this position there is a LOT of freeplay between the hub and the bolt. What am I missing here?

I measured the outside temps on the exhaust manifold across all 6 cylinders on the dyno before and after adding my Nismo plenum. Admittedly not 100% accurate but certainly enough to warrant putting this on. How did you determine on your GT-R if this was a worthwhile upgrade??

Injectors SOLD Fuel rail still available.

Buyer changed his mind - back for sale.

Injectors are genuine HKS 1000cc top feed injectors for GT-R (part 1402-RA002) and come with new plugs and pins for a clean install. These have done less than 2000km. Price is $700 including postage to you. HKS Fuel Rail. This is for 11mm after market injectors (i.e. like the above) and include AN-6 feed and return male fittings. Price is $350 including postage.

Oops - I got confused with day and night I'll be there for the NIGHT session with Antilag

I'll be there in the Black Girl - come and say g'day.

GTS4 diffs = 4.375 265/35x18 tyres = 641mm diameter

Hmmmm.....bit difficult to say as the induction piping and air cleaners are changed. My guess is that they are quieter. Was a bit busy trying to keep the car on the black stuff today :-)

Paul Absolutely no compressor surge. These are like the GT-RS terbs top end with the 2530 bottom end response. The final max HP figure on E85 was at 26 to 27 psi. I can't help wondering what the GTX2860R units would be like north of 30 psi For the other question of comp ratio - standard HKS Step 2 kit so should be 8.7:1. My engine has now seen 4 hard seasons of motorsport so when it's time for a rebuild it's custom pistons to 88mm in a sleeved block with a 9:1 (or higher)comp ratio.

OK - all bolted back up now and tuned. First things first - the new induction and compressor pipework. Very happy with the work and is much lighter than the cast HKS pipework I had before. I also replaced the Blitz "flywire" units with some K&S filters that I'm sure do a better job of filtering. Now - onto the dyno. Started off with the BP98 tune: There was a fair bit of setting up initially as I changed the Apexi MAP sensors out to Greddy units (3 bar absolute) and ID2000 injectors. Once the preliminaries were out of the way it was clear that these turbos are a different beast. As we approached the limit of the boost of the -5 units, these really started coming into their own. The difference between the 20 to 23 psi (final tune) was significant with a LOT more power being made. Higher boost just started inducing too much knocking. We did make around an additional 40 rwhp, however, topping out at 581. Now - the E85 is where it really starts to get interesting. Unfortunately I don't have an overlay of before and after, but previously we managed 620 rwhp at around 23 psi. The new GTX units on E85 allowed more boost and netted a respectable 670 rwhp (or as near dammit an even 500 rwhp). Again what was evident is that these terbs REALLY like boost. I'm sure that these could flow north of 700 rwhp on a stroked RB30 with the right head work.

The delay is my fault. Turbs all bolted up, but I'm waiting to get the car to a specific fabricator who will do the quality of work on the pipework that I want. Note the shortened PS pump and the fact that I retained the HKS actuators as the bew ones fouled the oil lines. Hopefully not too long a wait now.

Second hand from USA. They are available new in Australia - ring your friendly Garrett dealer and quote part no. 430609-230.

Couldn't find these on their website - got a link? Who did you use for the coating?

Thought I would share some of the "challenges". Excuse the out of focus blurry iPhone pic, but this is how the new twins sit on the old Tomei manifolds: What is evident is that there is minimal room for the straight 3" inlets on the front and rear. Front terb is very near the power steering pump: Plan to get around this problem is to remove the PS Pump centre section which is redundant anyway without the Hicas. We'll then cut down the drive shaft and machine the end to sit into the outer cover. This takes around 2" out of the PS pump and gives enough room hopefily for some intake piping: For the rear, the inlet is VERY close to the dump pipe drom the front terb. A combination of elongating some mounting holes and/or "massaging" the dump pipe will be enough. Anybody know the temperature rating for silicone hose joiners? Off the the ally pipe man this weekend so hopefully some progress to report next week.