Gav

I've got a bee in my bonnet over a common belief (from some very well respected members included) that coating/wrapping/insulating the exhaust manifold to keep the heat in makes a marked difference to turbo efficiency. Sorry guys, I just cant subscribe to this theory. Sure, the basic gas law principles apply (i.e. the hotter the gas the higher the pressure and therefore the faster the exhaust turbine spins), but really, what is the temperature difference going to be between an insulated and uninsulated manifold. There is a huge gas flow (even more than on the inlet side) and the surface area is relatively small. I would therefore sugest that for a given volume of gas, the temperature drop of the exhaust gas is relatively small as a fraction of the total temperature. Lets consider a drop of 5C in the exhaust temp. This relates to a percentage drop in temperature of 0.5% assuming an exhaust temperature of 1000 Kelvin (remembering we need to work in absolute temperatures). As there is a direct relationship between temperature and pressure, this equates to a similar drop of 0.5% in pressure applied to the exhaust turbine. OK - perhaps some may argue that there is a larger difference in temperature between insulated and uninsulated manifolds? I personally just can see it as really even a tubular, thin walled manifold is a pretty inefficient heat exchanger in size and design. However, I certainly agree that the exhaust components in and near the engine bay should be insulated to stop the engine bay temperatures from rising. I also spent a lot of money on ceramic coating turbo exhaust housings, manifolds, dumps, from pipes etc. I did this from the point of view of lower inlet temperatures and avoiding heat damage to hoses, abs, wiring etc near this area. In conclusion - I am far from convinced that there is enough heat loss to markedly affect turbo efficiency. If someone can show me otherwise - I have an open mind, however

You're right - found the following link Left Hand Drive GT-R Got me thinking now - a GT-R in Bulgaria (crap roads 'tho!)

I honestly don't think you will be able to convert a GT-R to left hand drive due to the layout of the turbos and the ABS (to name a couple of items that come to mind). Would really like to be proved wrong, however! Good luck and post pics if you are successful! Cheers Gav

Tolja!

Get a mate who has a good running 32 (GT-R or GTS-T) and start swapping/substituting igntion components one by one. One thing you haven't mentioned is the coil pack wiring harness. Check that the wires and plugs are all good. Is the ground lug tight and clean (and grounded?). Even though you bought new bits, substitute his coils and ignitor as well - doesn't hurt to check again!

My GT-R came from Japan with a Mines ECU installed. It actually ran OK and was generically tuned to support standard low cost mods like mild boost increase (boost restrictor removed) and exhaust upgrade. I didn't experience detonation on BP Ultimate fuel. The ECU is difficult to reprogram as Mines tend to bit a big dob of glue over the chip and socket arrangement.

Ken has seen/driven/owned a shite load of GT-Rs. I'm sure he'd comment if there was anything untoward.

I love the idea of replacing the commander with a pocket PC that monitors (bar graph and analog guage), logs (heaps of memory available in pocket PCs now) and tunes. Agreed - this guy is a bloody wizard!

I'm very happy with the 4 pot CSC brakes that I'm running. Huge improvement over std GT-R brakes with Pagid pads. Have a look in my gallery for a pic. Cheers Gav

As SK states above, direct power feed makes a substantial difference to flow and pressure. I fitted a Nismo GT-R pump, direct power feed and installed an HKS regulator. This is well and truely enough to support 680 cc injectors at 100% duty whilst still maintaining adequate rail pressure. A/F ratios sit at 11.5:1 with a peak power of 540 hp at the back wheels.

I assume that there is no cut-out of the airconditioner clutch at high RPMs on an R32 GT-R? The reason that I ask is that I'm destroying AC belts and I'm pretty sure that it's because: 1. I have a ATI Super Damper fitted that happens to overdrive the AC by 25% 2. I forget to turn the AC off before I....... 3. proceed to give said engine plenty of revs OK - Assuming (again) that: 1. I like having AC available in a black car in Perth summers 2. Turning the AC off will reduce the frequency of belt destruction 3. I can't be relied on to remember this (and there is no auto disengagement at high rpm) I plan to fit one of "Uncle Julian's" (aka Autospeed) frequency switches to disengage the AC clutch when a certain PRM is reached. Can anyone see any flaws in this plan? Cheers Gav

My turbo timer location is the same as my traction control device and my maximum power output limiter - in my head (i.e. a bit of basic common sense). If you can't remember to cool down the turbo(s) by idling or driving off boost after giving them a flogging, then you shouldn't really be driving such cars. Turbo timers also help thieves by offering clear and easy access to hot wiring cars. Finally, check with you insurance company about their opinion of turbo timers. Just my 2C worth.

The OEM R32 GT-R radiator cap has a valve activation pressure of 88 kPa (0.88 bar) according to the Service Manual.

честит рожден ден oт България (happy birthday from Bulgaria)

Not the first time and certainly not the most notorious. For the older members on the forum, same may remember a certain Australian race car driver known as Perer Brock and the demise of the HDT marque. Taken from en.wikipedia.org: Brock developed an interest in New Age-style spirituality through practitioner Eric Dowker. Brock began publicly supporting, and eventually began to fit to HDT specials, a device called the "Energy Polariser", containing strong permanent magnets, which claimed to improve the performance and handling of vehicles through "aligning the molecules". The overwhelming majority of the Australian motoring community regarded the device as pseudoscience. Brock also recommended that the tyre pressures for his polariser-equipped vehicles at what many regarded as near-dangerously low levels. Holden, fearing the consequences of being associated with the device, cut ties with Brock and set up an alternative racing/modification operation, Holden Special Vehicles.

If you get the car dynoed in 2WD, leave the dyno unlocked and re-install the fuse and try and drive off the dyno. If the clutch packs are in good nick, the car will drive straight off. If they are worn or slipping, it will move off more slowly (or not at all). A subjective test I know, but if the dyno operator sees a lot of GT-Rs, he'll have a pretty good idea.

I can understand the need for an accurate inlet temp sensor. After my upgrade I was horified to see that my inlet temps (showing on the PFC) were consistantly around 25C higher than ambient (50C on a 25C day). What I did notice, however, is that the IC outlet was cold/ambient to touch and that the inlet temperature readings on the PFC hardly varied. In reality I suspect that what I'm really measuring is the temperature of the plenum wall (nicely heated by the engine radiant heat) rather than the intercooled air passing throuh it. Where do you place the aftermarket inlet temp probe?

If it's the Dual Solenoid Boost controller you mean - then this link gives a very good English version: Blitz DSBC The following is also a good Installation Guide Blitz DSBC Installation Cheers Gav

I can't answer your question, but what I can say is that for very little money from Nengun (around 35 bucks from memory) there are specific vehicle harness kits that make this a simple plug in afair. Took less than 5 mins with one of these on my R32 GT-R

Thanks Paul - have certainly been watching your progress carefully. I'm still in a couple of minds about how good the GT-RS terbs are compared to the 2530s. I did a back to back drive with an R33 running a Jun 2.7L kit and 2530s. Although the dyno graphs showed the 2530s coming on earlier, the real world driving comparison between the 2 was very similar. The GT-RS terbs certainly seem to respond well to high boost levels. Next step will be to revise the inlet cam (change to longer duration 272) and play some more with the cam timing. Rev limit is still set fairly low to 8200 for the moment, however there is probably no reason why this can't be lifted given the supporting hardware.

As per the graph, max power is 578 hp at the rear wheels. This is an improvement of 37 hp on the same dyno by fitting a 272IN cam (previous 264) and spending dyno time optimising cam timing. Setup is: N1 block HKS 2.8L crank Nismo bearings Pauter rods ATI crank damper HKS nickel coated pistons GT-RS low mounts at 25 psi HKS bridged manifold HKS hard piping induction kit Apexi 136mm IC Greddy plenum HKS fuel rail (twin entry, single return) HKS fuel regulator HKS 680 injectors Nismo intank fuel pump (direct power feed) HKS step 2 cams (272IN, 272EX) HKS guides, springs and retainers HKS timing belt HKS cam gears HKS metal head gasket Ported head Trust oil pump N1 water pump HKS dumps, pipes and exhaust PFC D-Jetro Blitz dual solenoid BC Splitfire coils HKS Twin Power CDI HKS twin plate clutch GTS4 diff centres front and rear (shorter ratio than GT-R)

Pics added to first post