Gav

Hi Dror the bridged manifolds certainly did reduce the compressor surging or "choo choo train" effect, however it is still present at neutral manifold pressure (i.e. sitting enough boost to counteract engine vacuum). To be honest with the much torquier engine, it is an area of engine load that really isn't used that much anymore. Highway cruising is now very easy off boost. Spool-up (unless in 5th gear) is generally fast also and you pass through the "shuffle zone" pretty quickly. Have to admit the extra torque and short diff ratios makes you pretty lazy around town as generally I only use 1st, 3rd and 5th gears now.

Yep - black 32 GT-R with big nasty Workmeister rims

Well after a quick visit to Perth I'm back in the land of Trabants and Ladas. For those I missed out on catching up with in Perth my apologies. I would like to send thanks to Ant, Hanson and the Xspeed team. As some of you know, my build-up has been long and drawn out stretching over 2 years now. The past is the past, but the important thing is that the work and the dedication that Ant Scali put into my R is certainly very much appreciated and definately beyond what would be considered "just doing his job". Likewise the build-up pics supplied by Hanson and Jamie along the way and the regular emails and updates were very much appreciated. Some may accuse me of being a "cheque book tuner", but unfortunately when you live and work in another country you either give up your dream or you rely on others to help you out. All I can say is that it wasn't a cheap dream to live, but the outcome has been well and truely worth it to me. The torque, response and braking package that we've managed to put together brought a smile to my face every time I drove my car over the last couple of weeks. There are a few small "tweaks" left to do (slight revision of intake cam specs and more work on cam timing), but essentially I've got the R that I always wanted. To the other workshops (particularly Ken at Hyperdrive and Roy at C-Red) who gave unbiased input and advice along the way, thanks also. Cheers Gav Setup is: N1 block HKS 2.8L crank Nismo bearings Pauter rods ATI crank damper HKS pistons GT-RS low mounts at 28 psi HKS bridged manifold HKS hard piping induction kit Apexi 136mm IC Greddy plenum HKS fuel rail (twin entry, single return) HKS fuel regulator HKS 680 injectors Nismo intank fuel pump (direct power feed) HKS step 2 cams (264IN, 272EX) HKS guides, springs and retainers HKS timing belt HKS cam gears HKS metal head gasket Ported head Trust oil pump N1 water pump HKS dumps, pipes and exhaust PFC D-Jetro Blitz dual solenoid BC Splitfire coils HKS Twin Power CDI HKS twin plate clutch GTS4 diff centres front and rear (shorter ratio than GT-R) CSC 354mm 4 piston brake kit on the front

I'm getting the following script returned when I try to upload a pic to my gallery: Problem running JPEGTRAN: "/usr/local/bin/jpegtran" -copy none /home/websites/93/www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost/data/500/Dyno_April_2006_.JPG Error Code: 127 Am I doing something wrong?

You have asked (honestly) for advice, so I asume you want (honest) advice. If you want power, handling and performance - then buy a GTR and cut your losses. If you are really handy on the spanners, then drop in an RB26. If you are a magazine wanting a differenent article, then do a RB24 bottom end. Just my advice. Gav

Although your concern is obviously for property damage, the real concern is one of safety. Ironically, if you push the "near miss" safety point with the council (i.e. imagine what would have happened had the metal struck you directly), you will probably get results quicker. Go to the council office and lodge an "incident" report that is used by their staff. There will undoubtedly be a system whereby action needs to be taken within a certain time period. This should therefore flow on logically to repair/compensation of your car. Good luck Gav

Tuning time really depends on how many maps the tuner has for the D-Jetro and what his experience is. I know that in WA, there are now a lot of maps floating around for D-Jetro and most people are happy to share theirs anyway (I most certainly am anyway). An interesting point - who "owns" the tuning information after you pay for the tune? Cheers Gav

1/4 round mould is simply doweling that's been halved and then halved again - available from hardware stores. I just happened to have some lying around at the time.

Tools required: * good strong hair dryer or heat gun (careful that you don't scorch the vinyl if you use a heat gun) * 10 or 20 mL syringe with narrow gauge needle. * large tube/bottle of Super Glue * Acetone for removing spilled glue (and cleaning needles/syringe if reusing) * "1/4 round" wooden moulding for pressing into the crease of the dash Reading the list of tools you can probably work out the sequence of repairs: * heat one "bubble" at a time so the vinyl becomes soft and pliable * have a (very freshly) loaded syringe and needle ready and inject into the bubble from the side * press firmly into the crease with the quarter round moulding and hold for a few minutes (take care if glue spills that the molding doesn't stick to the vinyl) * clean up any spilt glue with acetone and wash syringe/needle if you don't have any extras at hand. *

No - hold down the UP button (AMFM) for 5 seconds to switch into full RWD mode. This is confirmed by the AWD and ABS lights on the dash showing. Warm rear tyres as required and then switch back to required setting.

I can't rember exactly, but I seem to recall that RB20, 25 and 30 use 2 x 1.5mm oil feeds whereas the RB26 uses 1 x 2.0mm?

I find the physics behind the two systems interesting and the debate is an age old one. Although manufacturors indeed seem to be adopting MAF as the load sensor of choice the goal posts appear to be moving, largely (I suspect), due to the availability of cheap and fast computing power now available for ECUs. MAF sensor ECUs don't use boost (manifold pressure) as a method of calculating air quantity. The "hot wire" AFM calculates air flow by measuring how much current is required to keep a wire heated above ambient temperature. The amount of current required is output to the ECU as a variable voltage signal. You are correct that even at WOT and constant manifold pressure, the engine load can change, and this is essentially due to changing revs. To answer your question about MAP sensors, air quantity (n) is determined from the good old fashioned Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT). Pressure (P) is measured by the MAP sensor, volume (V) is known from the engine displacement and rpm, R is a constant and temperature (T) is measured. As SK points out, however, the manifold pressure of a multi throttle body engine (such as the GT-R) can potentially be turbulent and for this reason most MAP sensor ECUs (including the D-Jetro I assume?) also reference the TPS output to provide additional information to "smooth out" the calculated air use at partial throttle applications. It is interesting to note that the D-Jetro uses 2 pressure sensors in the manifold, presumably for the same reasoning that obtaining an average signal will smooth out the effect of manifold turbulence. Which is best? I guess it doesn't really matter, but as long as people are willing to try and persist with different options everyone will benefit from the information.

Sorry - I can't understand your logic? Why would the twin MAP sensors of the D-Jetro have less sensitivity than twin MAF sensors (AFMs) of a std PFC? You are correct that at WOT and full boost, there should be little variation in manifold pressure, however I would expect little variation in AFM output voltage as well. So in effect they are both "two dimensional" at this point. One exception is sudden closure/opening of the throttle bodies during gear change. I would expect that the D-Jetro would respond quicker here as it is measuring load right at the manifold and not way "upstream" of the induction tract where the AFMs are located. Large volume intercoolers and big diameter induction piping must surely amplify this effect. Cheers Gav

Hi Gary - can you post a pic (or sketch) of how you add the external oil return line? Cheers Gav

Just woke up and checked the thread (we're 9 hours behind in Bulgaria - physically and figuratively speaking). OK - below is a pic of the internal swing gates. Note the hinges (gates) only swing internally both laterally (retaining oil level around the pickup on corners) and at the rear (for hard acceleration). My last custom sump (made localy in Perth) failed at the welds and the gates weren't as good quality and reliable.

There's more than 1 way to skin a cat (or at least measure engine load). Go for a drive in a D-Jetro equiped GT-R and quizz the owner of aspects that really worry you (cold start, idle, throttle response, economy or whatever) and make up your own mind. Cheers Gav

My concern with the simple weld on extension kits (Trust, Tomei etc) is that they hang quite low. If your car R already has lowered suspension, there is a real risk of sump damage on speed humps and curbs. I went for the Hi Octane sump as shown below Expensive but very well made and better clearance and capacity than the weld on kits.