Gav

Depends on where what level of mods you want to do with your R. If you really are happy with the present level of performance, perhaps consider getting the leaking injectors repaired/diagnosed at a specialist injector place and then getting all cleaned and flow tested. If I had a "spare" PFC, I would certainly be getting this fitted and tuned ASAP as it offers good "bang for buck". Consider fitting adjustable cam gears at the same time and you will be amazed at the performance increase for the moderate cost outlay. Standard injectors will cope with this power up just fine.

Bloody hell - an old topic of mine well and truely brought back from the dead! Solutions: 1. Turn up the radio or fit noisy exhaust 2. Blow the motor and undertake a mamoth 2 year rebuild program by remote control whilst living/working overseas 3. Fit new CW&P gear set (opportunity to change to shorter GTS4 )

Not so much oil pump but crank collar (on R32) or R33 crank to ensure positive engaugement to oil pump is also a must IMHO

My order of likely destructive events would be: lack of oil to big end bearings due to pick-up sucking air on the track detonation damaging pistons due to poor or over aggressive tuning disintegration of ceramic compressor wheels due to overboosting stock terbs impact damage when inexperienced or over confident driver fu(ks-up Fairly obvious stuff when you think about it. Good luck and enjoy your 'R (appropriately and in moderation)

There are shared sensor inputs or signals between the ATTESSA and ECU computers. I know for a fact that TPS is one such signal as I had some issues ATTESSA a while back when I was running a single throttle body. Study the electrical line diagrams from the manual and you will see what I mean.

Oops - my bad, shows that it's dangerous to assume! I would be keen to see a set of OEM gears next to the OSG set. With regards to the OSG set, I remember Mario basically writing them off as a waste of time (actually sh!te was the term he used I think), but I guess it depends on what the ultimate use is and how they're "abused"

Fuchs make lubricants and specialty fluids for the automotive, heavy transport, marine, aviation and aerospace industries. They make lubricants and that's all that they make (not petroleum, not windscreen washing fluids, and not advertisements saying they are looking at "green" fuels for the future). Their worldwide knowledge base is pretty impressive - as an example I am presently invloved with commissioning a liquid oxygen plant that is closer to residential housing than the EU regulations permit. The only way we could get approval was (amongst other things) to use non-flamable and ultra-cold rated hydraulic oils. Fuchs were able to supply oil used in the aerospace industry. I can't confirm that it's used on the Space Shuttle, but it bloody should be at close to USD1,000/litre! Anyway - I digress. I personally would have no problems using their products.

Please have a look at he thread in the Drivetrain and Transmission section: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=105996

It has been discussed somewhat in old posts, but I would like to get some recent feedback on syncro gearbox options for street driven GT-Rs. I'm NOT interested in going to dog engagement gears, so I figure that leaves: 1. Replace/rebuild standard gearbox as required. I guess that this is the most common practice as it works out cheapest. Reliability will obviously depend on factors such as abuse, main duty of car (drag racing etc) and torque. 2. OSG helical gearset with syncros. These would appear (to me anyway) to be basically the same size and design as OEM Nissan gears, with the benefit being that they (theoretically) are manufactured with higher strength due to their metallurgy and finishing. 3. PAR straight cut gearset with syncros. If you believe PAR's caim on their website, the large tooth profile means that there is added strength and reliability in going to this straight cut profile. The downside is the noise, however in theory this should only be in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears (4th is 1:1 ratio and 5th will retain standard helical gears). I would appreciate feedback on the OSG and PAR options from people who have tried the products. Any premature or unexpected failures? Cheers Gav

As posted by Cubes - engine capacity is your friend when trying to minimse lag at higher horsepower. Consider a stroker kit (HKS, Tomei, Jun etc), RB30 bottom end or an OS 3 litre if money is no object.

Only for the first offence Paulie - have a read further on for subsequent offences, gets really nasty and quick!

Dunno - you pay a lot of money for the Brembo name. I'm very happy with my CSC brake kit. Basically the same spec as the Brembo F50, but much cheaper with a good warranty.

I wouldn't be suprised if they really were struggling as a business. The PFC is a good example of a product that has had bugger all development in recent years. It's still a good product in my books, but if the company (APEX, APEXi, APEXERA or whatever they call themselves now) was serious about the product they would at least have foreign language (at least English) manuals for all versions. Oh year - the handcontroller design and lighting really is something out of the 1980s!!

Congrats Bobbo - that's DEEP into the 10s! Gav

A quick fix is to secure cable ties into the ribs on the hose. This helps stop the hose collapsing because it actually expands slightly in order to collapse and kink. It may take a couple of dozen to do so, but if it doesn't work you are only out of pocket a couple of bucks.

Are you really that bad with written English, or are you just taking the piss?

Before deciding, try to arrange a drive in a stroked SR with a well matched terb (and of course a well tuned ECU). I have driven an S15 with an HKS 2.2L kit and was amazed at the off boost torque.

Can I ask why your not wanting to use the SR20? What's the intended use for the car? Stroker kits (HKS, Tomei etc) are falling in price all the time and can transform the SR into a seriously torquey motor. The weight distribution will be more suited towards road/track work and the rebuild costs will obviously be less with a 4 cyl.

Sorry - can only have so much "Christmas Cheer" before something has to give! Yep - the benefits of adjusting cam timing is well documented and makes a huge difference on RB26 engines. The cost of these can be dwarfed by the labour and dyno costs if you want to tweak the power vs mid range torque tradeoff to your exact liking. As others have said - do a search as there is plenty written on where a good starting point is. Good luck Gav

Yep - cam gears are definately a good idea as they turn the camshafts which in turn activate the valves in the head. One advantage of not fitting cam gears, however is that the valves, springs and cams will last a very long time (perhaps forever?) and require little if any lubrication. Perhaps the biggest disadvantage of not fitting cam gears is that the engine doesn't run without them, although this is also an advantage if good fuel economy is a priority to you.

There was going to be an Autospeed article about it but after they presented the finding of their tests to Davies Craig they were threatened with legal action and therefore disn't publish the article. Would have been interesting to read!

Can anyone suggest someone as per the title?

Congrats Sean!

Ummmm............for GT-R, GTST, Hyundai Sonata?????