Gav

I use an Alemite diesel rotary pump, but the ethanol dries out the gears so it can be difficult to prime. I open it up between each drum and re-lube the gear and race. To refuel at events I use a cheap $30 go-kart battery pump from 20L drums. The 2 D cells last around a dozen or so 20L drums!

I'm now seeing 620 rwhp on E85 with CDI ignition allowing/accepting much more fuel. This is despite my modererate 2860-5 low mount turbo setup. My HKS 1000 CC injectors are at full duty cycle at max torque. In hindsight, I would have gone to ID2000 (2000cc) injectors as the HKS units weren't "plug and play" in any case. I'll take the opportunity again to express how impressed I am with the billet.net.au CDI kit (M&W CDI + bracket + harness etc). The spark strength allows bullsh*t amounts of E85 fueling midrange and just wakes up the turbo response. Forget your Splitfire/Twinpower combo.

Still running 24psi. The ethanol just seems to accept more and more timing. The big fat spark from the CDI helps the tune significantly in the mid range also.

Funny enough just got off the dyno today after fitting M&W CDI unit. Anyway, the graph R31Nismoid was referring to was up to: One curve was GT-RS twins, 137mm thick Apexi drag intercooler and Greddy plenum, the other was 2860-5 twins, 100mm HKS cooler and Nismo plenum. I'll let you work out which is which. The graph below is the same setup, but now on E85 and M&W CDI as fitted today: PS - I like E85

I cracked a pair of Tomei's on my GT-R. Welded a repair and then eventually wore a hole through on the top side of the bends. On my second pair now but as Piggaz has done my next set will be ported cast iron R34 oem units.

Congrats Snowy on a 2nd place!! I'm sure a lot of the credit goes to the R32 driver (well actually owner is more descript) sitting next to you You do us old Datto Owners proud

I reckon I know what's going on here now. The shifter that came with the gearbox (which I now assime is either an RB20 or SR shifter) definately accepts a nylon bush around 5mm diameter smaller than my old GT-R shifter as per the above pics. So....when I have a look at the gearbox socket that accepts the bush, there appears to be a sleeve pressed in that reduces the socket diameter by (yes, you guessed it) 5mm. So......If this is the case what the previous owner has done is mada a modification that allows a taller shifter (i.e. comes to hand easier from the steering wheel and back) without affecting the throw. Apart from the leather boost sitting now slightly lower, everything works well and changes smoothly. BTW - I did try to remove the sleeve using long nosed pliers, but it's in there well and good. I'll consider if I try to remove it next time the gearbox is out.

I bought a reconditioned GT-R box with an OS gearset fitted. It came with the longer shifter (smaller bush) already fitted. I'll double check the socket again, but I'm pretty sure the ID of the bushes are also different (i.e. the sockets are different diameter). Thanks for your help so far.

Unfortunately the socket of each is a different size. The original shifter(bottom in pic) has a socket larger than the top socket/bush combined.

I've recently changed my gearbox and the new one came with a longer shifter with a smaller socket and nylon boot. The increased length means that the leather cover no longer fits (lifts the plastic surround) and the gearchange is a longer throw. Note from the picture that the new shifter (shown on the top) is longer both in the black body and the silver arm as well having a smaller socket. The socket size difference means I can't fit the old shifter back on. Any ideas as to why there should be different models and how I can go back to the origial setup?

With the exception of HKS actuators they are bog stock. These did need a freshen up with seals and other bits and pieces (maybe bearings) recently after around 5,000 km of mainly hard track time. Still have the same exhaust and compressor wheels 'tho.

Looks like I've been taken here - no response (PM's or telephone) from the buyer since I deposited cash in November Can anyone help with contact details for Chris?

Landcruiser sump plugs with a nice thick O ring are just the thing for this (as I found out on the weekend)

Actually, I'm not overly impressed with the Tomei manifolds for that reason. I had cracks in the first set that I had welded. Then I found they had burn't through on the outside of the runners. I'm on my second set now and if these fail I'm going back to cast iron units. On the graph I posted, I did forget to mention I'm running GTS-4 ratios. I'll track down an updated E85 dump graph showing the other set-ups with RPM on the X axis.

Terbs sit on Tomei manifolds and exhaust is Mines dumps, HKS front pipes and HKS Hi Power exhaust without a cat. Intercooler is an HKS 100mm thick unit. I have oversize Supertech valves fitted (inlet and exhaust), a LOT of head porting, HKS step 2 272 IN and EX cams. ECU is PFC D-Jetro running Twin Power CDI, Splitfire coils and plain old copper plugs. Fuel system is 1 Nismo intank pump feeding surge tank with 2 x Tomei (Walbro) pumps in parallel. 1000 cc HKS injectors mounted on an HKS fuel rail. Fuel flows back via a boot mounted fuel cooler (thermo fan radiator type). Other mods aren't really relevant to the power curve. Out of interest my mate here in Perth (R32TT) is just finishing a rebuild on his RB30 that also has -5 terbs. Hopefully he'll have a dyno graph to compare in the next month or 2. This was no slouch before the latest rebuild, so I expect it will be verry impressive in the latest guise.

My signature is somewhat deceptive in that the peak power quoted (~600 rwhp) was at an Autosalon event using ~20% toluene when I was still running my GT-RS terbs. When I got into circuit work some years ago, I headed the advice of Snowman to go to the -5 terbs, fit a smaller IC and install a Nismo plenum. Peak power dropped to "only" ~550 rwhp, but mid range increased out of site. Given the fact that I am running an HKS 2.8 kit with supporting valve train mods etc, a possible 9k redline means that you have the choice for 2 gears in any situation on the track. The following dyno graph tells most of the story, with the blue line being the GT-RS setup and the red line being the -5 setup: Recently I converted to E85 (new fuel pumps, lines, injectors, cooler, ethanol content analyser etc) and am seeing 606 rwhp peak. The real benefit is the phenomenal mid range increase achievable given how much timing you can dial in on this fuel. I'll ask my tuner for a new graph overlaying all of the 3 combos. My overall thoughts on the GT-RS terbs are that they really aren't the best choice for a circuit (or street) oriented GT-R. I really did try to do everything I could to get earlier boost and eliminate the dreaded "choo-choo train" shuffle, but never really succeeded.

Yep - running a Yoda tune. I picked up a 200L dum of Powerplus at a good price from a fellow who no longer wanted to go through with the E85 conversion on his S15. Zeitronix kit was around 6 hundy landed.

Have used Powerplus so far. Very happy with the increased response that the extra mid range timing allows. An extra 50 hp top end also doesn't go astray I've gat a quick connection fitting betreen the lift pump and the surge tank that allows me to drain the main tank when I swap between BP98 and E85. The main reason I'm fitting the Zeitronix is that I can tell exactly when the replaced fuel has adequately flushed through the entire system before I adjust back to high boost and revs.

I'm installing a Zeitronix as we speak: Zeitronix ECA Also indicates fuel temp which is useful if you have a big fuel pump system and are sitting idling during staging or in heavy traffic. I also have a fuel cooler fitted with a thermo fan activated at 50C.

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There is a waiting list at the moment for PPG helical gear sets. Anyone have an unused set or geatbox for sale to suite a 32 or 33 GT-R? Have seen the 6 speed Getrag box for sate ATM, but the budget will be blown by the time I add new clutch, driveshaft etc to fit my 32. Cheers Gav

Check the ATTESSA computer in the boot for error codes (do a search here or refer to the manual for how to do this). My bet is error code 18