Gav

I've located a rear cradle and diff in Sydney (on a pallet and around 200kg) but the quotes I'm getting are close to $400 bucks to get it to Perth! Anyone know of cheap transport to Perth??

retard timing, reduce boost, and use std unleaded.... or you could drive a Hyundai - probably equates to about the same thing

343.6 at 1.2 bar on std ceremic terbs with boost control going all over the place. No damage done and boost control now sorted (I wound up the boost and left the duty cycle at a default 60% which is way too high compared to what has been "self learnt" for the lower 1.0 bar boost). Mods: HKS engine pipe, Jap spec cat, HKS Hiper Zaust, PFC with boost kit. Normal boost 1.0 bar delivered 318 hp atw previously.

Mate - I can loan you one and show you how. My hammer for adjusting the CAS is not as big as Steve's from SST 'tho !!

Sydneykid what percentage would you recommend to richen up # 5 and #6 cyls?

Ideally I guess you would measure exhaust temps on each cylinder when pushed hard on the dyno. Could then trim each injector to give similar temps.

Brett PM sent. Gav

The power FC allows a percentage multiplier for each cylinder as well as increasing/decreasing the pulse time in 1ms intervals. This applies across the entire fuel map.

Not compatible. Even the JDM S15 ECU needs 3 wires swapped over to be compatible with the Aus S15 (as I found out a few years ago when I fitted a PFC to my Aus S15). Spend the bucks and use a quality Australian aftermarket ECU and do away with the AFM.

I have heard it recommended that if you have a programmable ECU fitted that it is worth richening up #5 and #6 cylinders as these run hotter on the RB series engines. Any advice/experience?

Happy to help & be involved.

What model is the diff from?

Adam I'll be keen on one also - doesn't really matter the colour - so I'll split a set with you if they're only sold in pairs. Gav

Been slack dude - will borrow the dictaphone from work and try and do this weekend.

Having experienced my GTR both with and without HICAS I definately prefer without. The HICAS takes inputs from vehicle speed and steering wheel position to determine in what direction the rear wheels move and by how much. Unlike the ATTESSA 4WD system, it doesn't take inputs from individual wheel speed nor from axial or lateral G forces. When the car is being driven sedately or even moderately hard it does make cornering easier. When on the limit such as track work, the HICAS system will not pick up that the rear end is sliding and will actually turn into the corner more. I have found by locking out the HICAS that the car is more predictable when the rear has broken traction. Each to their own I guess depending on what you plan to do with your car, however I have no plans to refit mine.

Brett was this through Northside Nissan?

No probs - will drop a couple around to you

Definately keen except: real GTRs should be black - therefore so should the shirts!

PM sent

Mat I heard a rumour that you had one of these babies plugged in. What’s your initial thoughts?

Paul - can PM me the details of the diff? Adam - Thanks, I'll drop by there later in the week.

Another coil bites the dust.......and another one's down, another one's down, another one bites the dust (sorry - the tune's rattlin' around in my head). Anyway, whilst I save up for some decent aftermarket ones, has anyone got any used ones around for sale?

You also lose power steering if you unplug the cables from the HICAS computer in the boot. Make sure the plugs are in properly.

Funny you should say that - I mentioned it to the missus. Next day I found one of those "do it yourself divorce kits" stuck to the fridge door.

Yep - C110. Had R180 diff (open wheel) off memory. Suffered badly from rust - the one down the road in no exception. Only asking $500 off memory - I'll check out tonight for you.