Gav

Some inovative thinking here and if 15 psi (or thereabouts) was sufficient, I don't see why you couldn't use boost pressure to fill an accumulator with pressurised air which in turn would pressurise a water resevoir feeding sprays. The trouble is that for really fine mists, which gives the best cooling efficiency, you want pressures at an order of magnitude higher than this (i.e. ~150 psi).

both SOLD

I have 2 brand new Bosch 040 pumps. I have only opened the boxes to realise that I can't fit 2 of these into my Sard fuel tank - bugger. These have never touched a drop of fuel. New price is now over $230. Price for the good people on SAU is $170 plus postage (or local pickup)

Thermo fans without shrouding to match your radiator will almost certainly perform less well than a mechanical driven fan. The thermo-clutch fan is pretty basic in operation. Have you taken it off and inspected it? It may just be a case that there is some crap stopping the bimetallic strip from releasing when it cools down.

Why the label on the dyno chart "Premium 93 Octane"? I'm sure you were using 98 octane pump fuel previously? Also, what E85 are you using - CSR? Thanks Gav

Or if you have the money, buy the besterest you can afford. Oh - congrats on 10 posts.

Good point and I actually see this as testament to how the aftermarket scene has matured in Perth. There is tuning from at least half a dozen workshops represented yesterday and as Paul says AF ratios and knock levels were in the majority of cases very good.

Also would like to offer thanks to Alistair, Lumpy and the Autoworx team for working long and hard on a hot Sunday.

No - was Bart/Wills GT-R with around 540 AWHP

And are we gunna see your hybrid monstrosity? I still have bad dreams driving that squillion horsepower thing in the wet at Barbs

Relax - I'm only coming for sh!ts and giggles. The Old Girl is now tuned to about 550 rwhp and that's on a cold day. With intake temps possibly near the 70C mark on Sunday, all the PFC equipped cars will be dropping off a heap of timing as auto air temp compensation (if they're not we're gonna hear a lot of marbles rattling in tin cans). I'm guessing an output of around the 500 mark for me.

Couldn't find a question here, but will take a punt at an answer.................OK.

Yes

I did ask the question in the E85 thread Here I have doubts that the blend in non-corrosive, that the flow rates for a given power are similar, and that methanol is as cheap as was stated in the article.

Sorry - the rear windows are different. The rear doors are the same, however

I run the HKS Hi-Power exhaust on my 32 GT-R. Come along to the next No Limits night at Barbagallo's on the 10th of next month for a listen. There are ususlly a handfull of GT-R's there so you can have a listen to a few different combos. Better still - bring your car out for a thrash :-)

Proengines above has likely given the best advice. If you have the head off and you are overhauling it anyway, then it's probably not a bad option as the price of oversize valves isn't any greater than standard valves. I used oversize valves as I was trying to extend the envelope of small turbocharges on a larger displacement engine. Installed high lift and long duration cams also for this reason. If you are building a big HP engine with a single turbo, personally I wouldn't bother as any gains will most likely be overshadowed by the fact you have a big huffer installed.

Nismo fuel pump curve shows the intank pump flows 225 L/h @ 5 bar with a 12.5V feed. I'd expect the flow at the same pressure (I'm running 5 bar at the rail) to be the better with the direct power feed to the battery/alternator that supplies closer to 14V. Assuming that the pump is only delivering the stated 225 L/h for safety, however, this equates to injector flow of 625cc with all 6 injectors at 100% flow. I'm running 6 HKS 680cc injectors at 90% max duty (i.e. 612cc). Basically the fuel pump and fuel injectors are maxed out, but then again so are the terbs (2860-5's) at 580 rwhp. I guess the system, although maxed out, is also well balanced. The caveat in all this is that you need to keep a close eye on AFR's. I do regular dyno checks and also have a reliable AFR logger (Innovate wide band) wired into my Dataloggit that lets me check what's happened on the track. I have a gauge also installed, but I tend to be a bit busy on the track to watch it closely. Matches well on the dyno wity their exhauset meter 'tho.

Thanks for the feedback. Nothing like a little bit of real world experimentation to see if various theories are right or not Unfortunately I haven't got a guarenteed solution for you to the problem. I'm guessing worst case scenario is going to be where engine bay temps are hottest and most of the fuel is recirculating back to the surge and fuel tanks. This will be in heavy traffic or idling after comming off the track etc. Ideally would be better to have a 2 stage pump speed setup which would reduce fuel flow during closed throttle application. You would want to make sure this is very reliable, however, as if it goes wrong I can see horrible consequences of the engine terminally leaning out. Personally I wouldn't do this. Insulating fuel lines and the rail in the engine bay can't hurt to reduce heat transfer through conduction, however I'm guessing there is also an element of conduction through the mounting bolts and injectors etc. A fuel line cooler on the return low pressure line shoild help, however it would need air flow to be most effective. This by default exposes it to potential damage. I guess ultimately the safest option as others have recommended is to use a single intank fuel pump. This is what I have done with my GT-R that is now predominantly only a circuit and tarmac rally duty. Sure it doesn't have a surge tank (I need to keep the fuel tank above 1/4 minimum), but it also doesn't have the fuel overheating problems. I also rest easier knowing that if I sustain rear end damage there isn't the exposure of a swirl pot in the boot that is likely to rupture. I run a Nismo intank pump that supports 580 rwhp at close to 2 bar of boost.

For an external pump, I can guess where most of the heat would go - into the air of the boot. Sure some of the power (210 watts if we assume 15 amps at 14 volts), will be transferred from kinetic energy to heat energy for the moving fuel. Even more will be transmitted from the hot pump to the fuel, but most of the heat will be radiated from the hot motor body into the surrounding air. I stand by the assumption that most heat is absorbed from the heat of the engine bay. An easy check if I'm right is to operate the fuel pumps without starting the engine (cold engine bay of course) and see how warm the fuel lines and surge tank gets.

Not a good analogy - liquids (unlike gasses) aren't compressible and therefore don't gain heat through compression. Heat can be generated by mechanical work (agitation) but this likely to be minimal. By far the majority of the heat will come from absorbing heat from the engine bay. Sounds to me that you are recirculating too much fuel between the engne bay and the tank. If you really need to run a surge tank, then insulating lines and rails in the bay should go a long way to help prevent overheating. Can't comment personally on fuel coolers, but it does seem to expose your fuel lines to the risk of rupture.

Thanks for the reply. After reading it a few times and checking my connections and the port outputs I see what you mean. I'll be giving this a go in a month or so and will report back on how it works out.

Spent some time reading this thread and have been keeping abreast of the PFC Guide for some years now, but still can't work out the following: How can I monitor boost pressure via a D-Jetro PFC? The D-Jetro MAP sensors use the same port that would normally be used for the Boost Control Kit I believe?

For a free (or almost free), rob a power supply from an old computer. You will get both 12V and 5V CD (good for USB powered projects) at around 200W minimum.