Gav

I've got one with only ~1,000 kms sitting in my garage. PM if interested.

I was about to ask what colour car it came off.

Rake angle (or front to rear balance) plays a huge part in how the GT-R corners. Lowering overall by 1" as you say is OK, but you must make sure you keep the front (as measured from the centre of the wheel to the arch) is around 10mm higher than the rear. If you have a neutral (or worse rear elevated) rake the car will understeer like a bitch. You don't mention if you have a subframe alignment kit (aka "pineapples") installed. If you do, make sure the setting is neutral rather than "traction" or "squat". Gav

I've renumbered my TSC - it now goes to 11! These go to 11

Paul Also had to modify my Trust cover slightly to fit teh Performance Metalcraft sump - guessing you are in the same boat?

I've just fitted a Quaiffe ATB into my front diff. Will be a few weeks before the car is back on the track, unfortunately.

Please - leave these in the history books where they belong. A pair of Garrett -5 will give a much better spool rate and deliver more power than a pair of 2540. Cheers Gav

Standard as new OEM, or standard as 10+ years old as came with the car. If it's the latter, then it's probably more a case that it's a good idea to renew the coil packs anyway. As has been posted many times, aftermarket units are cheaper than OEM.

You and me both Snowy!!

Bugger - he didn't get back to me. I've sent an email to his contact email address: [email protected] I'm not sure if the address is correct, so I've diverted all of my Yahoo/Hotmail spam emails to this address also.

Great timing - was just about to sign a AUD100,000 deal importing shoes. If you PM me within the next hour, we can seal the deal - otherwise I need to stay with my original importer Looking forward to your fast reply.

I still maintain the best "mod" you can do for a GT-R is to get yourself a cheap-arse bunky. This lets you: * drive to and park in dodgy areas without stress and worry * maintain and modify your GT-R without having to rush * have a "parts chaser" when your GT-R is in the above state * potentially save on fuel for when you just need to "transit" Perhaps go halves with a relative in an old 4 cyl ute or van? You find that when you do jump back into the "R" it puts a bigger smile on your face.

Paul - what are you doing lurking around WA section :-)

Can anyone help or recommend someone to do this for me? Thanks Gav

Anyone who adds cheap fiberglass parts to a GT-R should be hunted down and have their car confiscated

AUTOart 1:18 Great detail, nice display boxes and fits on my shelf

I've been running my Pauter rods now for 5 years and 2 engine failures/rebuilds. Now partnered with a HKS stroker crank and shortened HKS coated pistons. They are almost indestructable.

I played around with front and rear compounds a lot on my upgraded brake set-up (CSC 4 pots 355mm, 343mm single pot). I ended up going a fairly high temp/high performance pad on the front (Pagid RS 14 "black") and a low temp pad with a high initial "bite" on the rear (Pagid 4-2 "blue" ). This helped balance out the braking a lot, but as djr81 says, the front bias is considerably more than the rear from factory. As a point in case I expect to go through at least 3 sets of rotors/pads for every set on the rear.

Don't be put off by Paul's "MAP-Phobic" comments. Hot wire MAF meters actually "guess" more than MAP sensors as to what the load of the engine is. It assumes that cooling characteristics of the air on the wire is constant. This doesn't allow for changes in ambient air pressure or humidity. Fouling of the hot wire by oil is also common and affects the performance. There is also no reference to the actual boost that the engine is seeing and therefore no compensation for this. Finally there is a significant lag in time between what the MAF meter reads and what the engine is actually receiving. This is made worse by larger intercoolers and duct volumes. MAP sensors read usually at the inlet manifold and give faster response to what the engine is actually seeing. Load is determined by a combination of manifold air pressure, manifold air temperature and engine revs (with throttle position referenced where there is low manifold pressure i.e. off boost). When constant boost conditions are reached, load is assumed to be directly proportional to engine revs (doesn't neccesarily run parallel to the x axis, but is proportional to it). If you have a look at a log of a MAF meter equipped car, this is also pretty much the same case. D-Jetro PFC's are a good all round ECU for RB engines and offer great response and performance gains whilst still providing good daily drivability.

If the 3 criteria you use (600hp, 10s 1/4 mile, reliable/drivable on the street) is indeed all that you really care about, then a standard RB26 with nitrous is your answer. If you want something that you can use for track work as well, then that's a different matter. I've run an 11.1 with R comps and full interior at the drags, which suggests that there is a 10s pass likely with a bit of preparation. I'm sure Jonn with his similar spec engine to mine also would do this. As would Matt (silver R32) with his RB30/-5 setup. I've had the pleasure of driving quite a few different set-ups on the circuit now, all doing sub 65s on the long track at Wanneroo. These include a standard 2.6, Jun 2.7, my HKS 2.8, and an RB30. Each has their strengths and weaknesses. I'm not going to try and convince anyone which is better, but I'm always happy to answer PM's for anyone who in genuinely going down this route. I've even been known to let the odd person take it for a drive to see for themselves the torque and response of the HKS kit with small terbs and a lot of headwork (oversized valved, cc'd chambers and flow bench etc). Just stay away for the concrete barriers at Barbagallo's

Yes Using the 1mm oversize and have no problems so far. They also do a "package" from the USA with guides, springs and retainers.

Had a preview yesterday of it in full race trim sporting new orange vinyl graphics. Interior setup is also quite trick with cage, seats and custom door trims well integrated and finished. Pity they still have to run factory 20" rims; with no R compound tyres available in this size they are stuck with road tyres.

I forgot about this thread. I ended up ordering in the R32 V-Spec (Brembo equipped) master cylinder through Nissan. This is a 1" (up from 15/16" standard). Fitted up without problems and gave a great feel to the larger braking system I've got installed (CSC calipers front and rear). Travel is noticeably reduced. Probably could have gone to the N1 (17/16") item for an even better feel. In summary, if you have an old/leaky master cylinder and are fitting bigger calipers, then it's a good upgrade. Price is on the north side of $350, however.

Remember that a radiator needs air to flow through it to work properly. The factory shroud and clutch fan is a very effective setup and sucking air through the radiator. There is a lot of work to ensure good flow of air if the shroud is not used. I would recommend staying with a good quality 40mm radiator which enables you to retain the factory shroud and clutch.