Gav

Another way of doing this which I found to be fast and effective. My R32 has the factory option for fog lights. Everything is in place including the wiring, fuse and connectors (follow the head light wiring to find this unconnected plug). I simply used a 4mm spade connector into the existing plug and then wired into the low beam circuit. This gives you the option of high beam lights with and without low beams. Simply hit the fog light switch on the dash to activate the low beams. If you want to be really tricky, install relays activated by the high beam into this circuit. This will then ensure the low beams turn off when you turn the light switch off (even if you have the fog light switch on).

There is no "absolute" answer to this as there are many variables, even with the same car. A tyre pyrometer is your friend here and will give you instant feedback as to what your surface contact patch looks like. I got a Longacre unit from USA for ~$100 delivered and since then I have lots of "friends" on track days

I would have thought the large volume of the Jun plenum is more suited to outright hp (i.e. large flow and boost) rather than response of two small compressors. Have never seen a before and after dyno with one fitted, so I may stand corrected. I swapped away from the cross piped HKS manifolds to Tomei items. Very nice build quality and enabled me to refit the factory heat shield and water lines. Besides neatening up the area, it drops the temperature down in this region of the engine bay considerably. The main reason I ported the head was that I bought a brand new head from Nissan and was amazed at how inconsistent the port sizes and shapes were for a brand new item. Actually, if you think about it it really is probably an assembly line worked just tidying up the casting dags etc. I thought that whilst I was going to the trouble of doing that, it would be worth spending the extra time in port matching to the inlet (Nismo) and exhaust (Tomei) manifolds. Then, whilst we were there we fitted new guides, and may as well get bigger valves............well, you know how it goes. So what has all this done to the result? My belief is that it enables the peak torque curve to stay flatter up the top for longer. In other words, it extends usable rev range and gives greater gear choice for most situations. Now....if you were asking about "bang for buck'' then that's another matter. I reckon you can achieve 80% plus of what I have done with standard plenum, cast manifolds, cams and intercooler.

Copper plugs for me. Cheap, effective and you learn alot from the colour insulator and state of the electrode.

Just finished a new tune and am making spot on 550 rwhp on a 2.8L. The dynograph was the same engine, except the older "peakier" setup was with GT-RS terbs, 136mm intercooler and Greddy plenum. New setup is with -5 terbs, 100mm HKS cooler and Nismo plenum. Cams are 272 Step 2 and head is extensively ported with 1mm O/S valves

There's another GT-R in Perth with an RB26/30 with -5s fitted (Silver 32 driven by Matt). A very strong car and heaps of midrange as you would expect. Don't a direct dyno graph with what I have now and Chooka's old setup, but his response was close to the GT-RS, but with another 50hp or so up top. To give you an idea, however, have a look at this link of my old setup with GT-RS terbs and the -5s on a lower boost runin tune http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...05_63_75621.jpg The power difference now is probably only 40hp or so lower now that I've raised the boost and dialed in a bit more timing

Oops - typo. Meant 600 rwhp of course Snowy - Relax, my motokhana skills are still crap lol Wanneroo and Collie will be interesting however

I had GT-RS terbs on my 2.8L and topped out at 600 rwkw on more than 1 dyno. I dropped to smaller Garrett -5 for the sake of gaining time on the track. Sure, my rwhp dropped by 40 to 50hp, but my lap times improved HEAPS. For dyno comps, bragging rights, drag racing.......go the larger/high hp terbs. For a good streeter/track car (as you titled the post), forget about top end and chase response with a healthy 500 to 550 hp.

Good question - when I run in RWD I notice large plumes of smoke coming from the rear end of my car

What size is the bolt? From an engineer's handbook that I have, the yeild stress limit for a 20mm grade 8 bolt is ~ 550 Nm. So if the bolt is 20mm or larger, then the higher torque value is possible.

These are what the manual calls "Assist Handles" and are located on the roof lining above the rear quarter windows. They are also known as "F*ck Bars" 'cause thats what the back seat passengers cry when they need to grab them in a hurry. Anyway, can't work out how to access the screws or bolts as the trim at the base seems well secured.

I can't work out how to remove the rear interior handles/straps above the rear quarter windows. Can someone tell me how to get access to the bolts for these?

Ummm......don't understand the logic. If I change into top gear sooner will my laps time drop? The radiator and oil cooler does the cooling, the thermostat just isolates the engine from the radiator until it reaches optimal temperature

Agreed - just a tad too wide unless you flare/pump the guards. 10" wide with the right offset and you can get 265 rubber sitting nicely front and rear.

I'm a big fan of the RS-14 pads. If you try a set of the new RS-15s, let me know.

It can be installed 2 ways. Install this so the "H" has the front leg is longer than the other (i.e. not symetrical). If you install it symetrically (like I did) you don't get enough travel to get much more than -1 degree camber. I suggest once you are happy with the setup - that is after the wheel alighnment and you are happy wiith the handling, use some locktite on the locking nuts.

Stretching the tyre won't affect the rolling diameter to an extent that the ATTESA will worry. I don't understand why you would want to have different size rims front and rear on a GT-R. I run 10" rims with 265 RE55 rubber on an R32. You just need to get the right offset.

Thanks I'll probably bite the bullet and get one from Japan. Not getting any response from RHDjapan - anyone know another supplier of OEM parts from Japan (and I don't mean Nissan Australia!)

Thread back from the dead - did it ever get resolved if a R33/34 GT-R reservoir fits? Alternatively is there a local commonly available option that will work (eg Patrol etc)

I would think that these are low pressure devices that are designed for the suction side of externally mounted pumps?

Yep - it's the position of the map sensors. One is adjacent to #3 cylinder and the other to #4. See: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...6%20djetro).pdf

The number of turbos is irrelevant as the MAP sensors are mounted between the inlet manifold (plenum) and the head. It is also important to fit both as the PFC D-Jetro internal programming appears to be quite complex and expects 2 outputs. I suspect that there is allowance for reverberation through the manifold. As an example, if you reverse the connections between the #3 and #4 map sensor the idle is crap (didn't want to risk putting it under load).

Check with CAMS and the events that you want to enter. I think you will find that most circuits won't allow nitrous.

My theory is that it is due to cam shaft overlap. The exhaust valves don't shut completely before the induction cycle starts. There is therefore some return of exhaust gasses from the manifold which now contains the ceramic particles that used to be your exhaust terbine.

Atom Ariel for the win! I can't see this getting rego approval here anytime soon (been watching their website for a few years now). You would either be unique in Oz or turn a decent profit to have the only road registerable one (that I know of anyway) in the country.