Gav

My Pauter rods were made in the California factory ~5 years ago. Price was not much more than Asian manufactured options. To my knowledge they still make every order to customers' specs at the same factory including titanium alloy if you can afford them (~US$1,400 per rod last time I checked).

I don't have a wiring diagram for a BNR34, but I would say there's a better than 50/50 chance that the signals from that wire are used for more than just the speedcut function in the CPU. UAS has an HKS Speed Limit Defender advertised on their site for $280. http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists/pricelist_hks.htm Give that a go if you don't want to commit to a PFC and tune at this stage.

You can do anything you want to your car - cut wire 53, use Homebrand motor oil, clean and reuse the spark plugs etc. FFS - you've laid out plenty for this vehicle and you want to take shortcuts?? If you want to exceed 180km/h, obviously you want to use the performance that the car is capable of. Fit and tune a PFC. The whole excersize shouldn't cost you more than $2k, of which you will recoup half of this if/when you eventually sell the PFC.

economy mods to a high performance based car and high performance mods to an economy based car - both silly ideas

No contention, R32 GTS-4 use 4.375 diff ratios, R32 GT-R use 4.11 ratio. the ATTESA system requires the same ratio for front and rear diffs, although it can be changed from factory without any probs (eg it's a common swap to put the shorter GTS-4 gears into a GT-R).

For more than about 550rwhp, I'd be going for the TO4Z. I've seen basically my exact engine specs on the same dyno with with this single and it spooled faster than my pair of GT-RS.

Thanks Ash Twoogle reckons I've "Left the Faith" by dumping the GT-RS terbs, and to be honest I do miss the massive kick in the pants as you come on boost in 5th over the hill at Wanneroo, but through the corners and out of the apexes it's just a whole lot more balanced and tractable.

I took Snowy's advice a while back on the "dash fives". The dyno below was a "softer tune" (red line) than at present and shows the 2860-5s as compared to GT-RS terbs on an HKS 2.8L built engine (shown as the peakier blue line) Since this time, we've added more timing and lifted the boost so that now we are at a similar top end around 550 rwhp. Mid range has fattened out of sight. I'll try and get an updated comparison dyno graph of the two setups. The proof is in the driving, however, and the car is just ballistic on the track with even a shocking driver like me recording more than competitive times on the more open and longer tracks. Full boost is on before 4k and with a redline of 9k you rarely find yourself far away from serious torque. But as Snowy says, still very easy to drive at partial throttle and plenty of response off boost.

I'm not so sure BB - I reckon Garrett did a fair bit of work with Nissan on the GT-R terbs and their variants (R32 to R32, N1 variants etc). Nissan never prevented Garrett selling the steel wheeled variants (don't know if the ceramic turbines variants are available through Garrett - although not sure who would want them anyway). These really are only a straight bolt on to the GT-R and GTiR (in a single form). With regards to the HKS 25/30 items these are now more than 15 years old (from memory) with very little change along the way. I reckon Garrett have surpassed this design with their 2860-5 units from a response and outright power point of view.

They come up on ebay pretty often - generally in bundles for pretty cheap prices

Depends on what you are using the car for and how you drive. Some options : 1 Apply some mechanical sympathy via your driving style 2 Throw in a second hand box and hope for the best 3 Rebuild your box with standard parts 4 Buy a new OEM box 5 Rebuild with OS crossmission parts to retain near factory specs (i.e. helical gears and syncros) 6 Rebuild with PPG, PAR or Holinger dog engagement and helical or straight cut gears 7 Drop in an OS, Trust or Quaife sequential gearbox 8 Convert to a tricked up automatic Personally, I like a combo of options 1 and 5. Has worked for me so far (touch wood).

When balancing the crank, my machine shop drilled holes in the the counter weight rather than grinding off material as Twoogle has done. Is one way better than the other?

Still available - a cheap upgrade for your RB26 and even has the front diff attached as a spare!

The bellmouth assists with the induction of small mammals and young children into the turbine without arms and legs getting caught up on the lip of the compressor housing

Putting the cost aside for a moment, unfortunately the mechanical engineering involved doesn't make this a "bolt in" proposition. You will need to change basically the entire suspension and steering system. You will also need to modify the transmission tunnel significantly. There are also a lot of work with ancilliaries such as power steering, airconditioning etc. On the electrics side, probably will need to fit a GT-R loom and then add the sensors required by the ATTESSA system. None of this work is really conducive to a car that has just bee repainted, much less the engine bay.

Item: GT-R Big sump and front diff Age: 2 years Condition: Very Good Price: $550 inc delivery to Toll Depot To Fit: (What car) R32/33 GT-R Location:Perth Contact:PM Comments: This is a Maitland 9 litre sump for an R32/R33 GT-R In addition to the extra capacity, there is the restrictor flap (one way hinge) to control oil starvation and the extended pick-up tower to ensure there is always oil supply to the pick-up. This comes complete with a standard R32/33 GT-R 4.11 front diff that was in perfect working order when I removed the sump/diff assembly. Reason for sale is that I built up a Hi-Octane sump with a 4.35 front diff. This is heavy, but I can arrange delivery to any Toll Express depot. At $550, this is cheap insurance to GT-R that may see the track. PM if interested. Pics here: Sump Sump Sump

A compromise is to relocate the abs to the boot if you need space under the bonnet (or a large single terb is cooking the unit). Have seen this done to 2 cars now and speaking with the owners it's not a huge job.

I saw no loss of power when I changed from split HKS manifolds to the joined type. It actually helped the spool up because they weren't fighting against each other.

Covert it off gas back to petrol - preferably 98RON

Thanks for the link, but I'm still confused as it looks like just about any of the rails will suit as I need to drill my bracket to suit anyway - does this sound right? Also interested if any of the models have a "tab" to accomodate the factory seatbelt clasp (i.e. allows you to use the factory belt on the road).

I have a Cobra seat with side mount holes. I also have the side brackets to suit these. Can anyone advise which model Bride rail I should get to suit this seat?

These are now sold and replaced with Cobra seats (better suited to the more portly figure lol)

Still for sale - buyer changed his mind.

Item: Pair of Bride Vios III seats (driver and passenger) and rails to suit R32 Age: Brand spankers Condition: Pristine - only unwrapped for pics Price: $1,200 including delivery to any Toll Express depot in Australia To Fit: Skyline R32, R33 and R34 Location: Perth Contact: PM Comments: These fixed back Bride seats are the "Low Max" style which sit lower than standard and are well suited for motorsport (lower centre of gravity, increased helmet clearance etc). They are in pristine condition and come with all rails, nuts and bolts etc for fitting into your Skyline. The only reason I'm selling these is that it's just too uncomfortable to squeeze my "middle age spread" into these. If you're of average or slight build, then these will be just the ticket. The price of $1,200 is excellent value and I'm losing significantly. I can include delivery to any Toll Express depot for your collection into the price, however.

Two words my friend - Bolt Extractor. Get yourself a set if these puppies: Irwin Bolt Extractors