Samuel Leonard

After the steel coolant pipe that runs behind the head on an rb26. Second hand or new providing none of the fittings are corroded. One end is two fittings in a y shape one end is the feed for the turbos. Thanks

Forgot to mention, call or text anytime on 0431398657 Thanks, Sam

I have a brand new genuine nismo thermostat for an SR. Still in the box. It's 62 degrees instead of factory 72 degrees so it will open that little bit earlier. I bought the wrong one when I intended to buy one for an rb not an sr. $120 pick up from west beach SA

i'll grab the clock cover. i've lost mine when i pulled the clock out to try to fix it so now i have a hole. where are you located in SA? can i pick it up? unless you're talking about the clock spring cover? as in steering column trim??? if you do mean the clock left of the steering wheel i'm in

Just bought a nismo thermostat from RHD Japan and their prices are pretty reasonable and the owner upgraded me to fed ex postage for free! Very fast responses to my questions and very helpful. Glad I stumbled upon them, wish I had done so earlier in my build! So happy with their service I wanted to promote them. Worth a look! http://www.rhdjapan.com if anyone is interested

Still got these for sale?

I am looking all over tw internet for anyone that is selling this coolant pipe new! The one that comes from the thermostat housing an feeds the heater core and has small fittings Comin off of it all under the intake. Thanks!

Same as others have said, have a good quarter drive socket set ready with a good uni joint and heaps of extensions. I found the idle control valve assembly would only come off from long extensions and laying on the ground looking up at the bottom o the intake. It feels like you'll break the extensions. They can be tight!

thanks for the reply. i put two brand new turbos on in november and haven't driven it more than 2 thousand k's i reckon so i'll definitely be swapping the near new gt2860 -7 turbos over to the new motor. the bearing noise is still quiet, it certainly hasn't actually let go yet so providing i pull the motor out before it gets much worse there will be no problems with them. but also, hadn't really thought about that side of things so i will be making sure my turbos are not contaminated before i install them on the next motor. how did yours go? the 33 motor easy to swap to?

so my R32 GT-R developed a light load metallic rattling sound a few months ago, i drove it occasionally knowing i'd most likely be up for a new engine soon. the time has come. the sound is bottom end and getting louder and deeper it's a 1989 gt-r so i was wanting to upgrade to at least a late model rb26 for the better oil pump drive gear and just wondering what problems i will come across. if i go late model 32 gtr engine, will the early push type clutch gearbox bolt up the same? what if i ended up finding an r33 gtr engine? will i have problems then? if i upgrade to a late model 32 or 33 engine, will my ecu be fine? or will i need the r33 ecu if i upgrade to a 33 engine? are there any known hassles in this department of changing to a later model motor? is it best to just rebuild mine? (nearly a 3rd year apprentice mechanic and would love the challenge but it's not beneficial if the late model upgrade is worth it) if i go an r33 engine, is the front diff the same? or will i need to swap the internals from my diff to the new sump? or just swap the whole sump over? any help you can offer would be great!! álso, any reccomendations on where to buy a new engine from that i can trust will be good? or should i consider buying a new bottom end only and swapping my head over? if that's a better option, will my head be compatible with all model rb26 bottom ends?

step 12 help. you tension the belt with an allen key in the tensioner (as it shows in the picture for step 12) and then tighten the bolt that holds the tensioner in that tensioned position. you then turn the crank over 2 full rotations and check the timing marks are all lined up correctly. once you are happy with the timing marks (on both the cam pulleys and crank) you check the tension on the belt. a quick note, if you go past the timing marks, do not turn the crank backward (counter clockwise) to line the timing marks up again as it moves the slack to the idler pulley side of the belt not the tensioner side (tensioner side is where you check belt tension) and can make you think the belt is tight when in actual fact, the slack will be between the crank pulley and the exhaust pulley. if this doesn't make sense to you, just remember, do not check the timing marks or belt tension after rotating the engine counter clockwise at all. if you go slightly past the timing marks, continue to rotate clockwise another 2 full rotations until they line up again (never rotate backwards), then check the tension. only then once you're happy with the timing and tension after rotating clockwise you should do the final tension on the tensioner pulley bolt to ensure it will not loosen off over time and lose belt tension.

Got an r32 gtr boot lid with the spoiler removed. Perfectly removed spoiler. Can't tell there ever was one. Boot li'd is wine red. Paint is in great condition. Been stored inside since I removed it off my car (put spoiler boot lid back on) been in the spare room for a year now gathering dust. Make me an offer. No imperfections. Come and inspect. Located in west beach SA. Call or text me on 0431398657. On annual leave all this week so contact me whenever.

I have 3 r32 gtr injectors for sale. 444cc injectors that have been cleaned and flow tested and all seals replaced. I had to replace one of my injectors so I bought a set of 6 and had all 11 good injectors cleaned and flow tested and all seals replaced. I have sold 2 of my spares now leaving these last 3. Make me an offer. Located in west beach SA. Happy to post at buyers expense. Can't upload photos from my phone. Happy to text photos if required. Text me please as I am slow replying to pm's. My name is Sam, mobile number is 0431398657.

A white pulsar just drove past then wonder if it was you??? Hahaha

That's me buzz. Sorry I missed ya! I live on homestead so you'll probably see it around

That's me buzz. Sorry I missed ya! I live on homestead so you'll probably see it around

Yep. Sounds like a severe vacuum leak. Basically by not having that hose connected you're allowing a lot of air into the intake that is un-metred. All air entering the intake has to go through the airflow meter otherwise it will run like shit and run lean.

Haha. Cheers Matty Sherlock

why does it matter? i don't care if you think it's weird or not funny. i've got a quirky sense of humor that you'll never understand through text on a forum and i'm not planning to change it unless i see something better which you probably won't approve of either. wasn't supposed to be a come back before because it's not an argument. just me being me.

Deren, major fan. i'd consider myself a fellow r32 GT-R purist. i've been a long time reader but i've never posted before. i thought i'd have another look at this build last night and turns out i read it from the beginning fully charged lap top till dead lap top hahaha. i put it on charge tonight and continued reading till the end! amazing stuff. i'm sure you've heard all of this before but it's been a dream of mine but realistically something i'll never get around to. i have been fixing anything on mine that needs attention but lately hit a wall. put a new clutch in it on stands in the drive way (2nd year apprentice mechanic) and just fitted two new gt2860 -7's and have had major troubles i didn't pre lube the turbos (massive mistake i know but i didn't know) i idled the car in the drive way for about an hour before driving it and then drove it tame for about 10 minutes until one turbo is screaming at me now. possibly $2300 down the drain and i'm cut. took me so much saving! clutch feels good though so it's not all bad news but the front turbo is now on the floor of the shed again. and i'm taking it to get inspected tomorrow hopefully if i can get away from trade school early. i'm in awe of your build and am very keen to see some final product pictures? seen your latest videos for anyone else interested here's tuned-6 in action on the road but it's still not enough! i'd love a few high quality walk around videos and driving videos. invested a lot of reading time into this car and need a bit of closure! thanks for sharing this build with us and i hope to see more soon! hope i can have mine back up and running this weekend or next weekend. cheers, sam.

To ON EDGE, You seem to be lacking in the sig department. Yours sincerely, Samuelleonard

It's my car boys, thanks for the help. I'm pulling the oil drains off today and hopefully it's wet when I start it.

Dot is an abbreviation (can't remember it) but it's basically a national standard. Dot 3 is a lower boiling point than dot 4 and 4 is lower than 5. 5 is expensive and needs to be replaced frequently. Like the other guy said, dot 3 is the minimum you should put in. Go for dot 4 and you'll be good for 2 years at least.

I've got my own r32 GT-R and it's off the road and has been for about 3 or 4 months and miss it so much! If anyone around west beach SA felt like taking me for a drive I would greatly appreciate it! I love to talk skylines and I'm an apprentice mechanic. I've pulled my turbos off at the moment and doing my clutch in the next couple weeks. I'd love to meet more r32 gt-r enthusiasts! Don't need to have outrageous power or anything I just plain and simple love r32 gtr's.

is this bad? it cost the last owner $2600 i have receipts. i think that you might be right. so it's a copy of the t2554r's but it's not genuine items?