Samuel Leonard

i'm very confident now that that's them. thanks heaps. so i can officially say that they are t2554 -3's?

already looked. no tag??? they've been rebuilt with 360 degree thrust bearings and a steel exhaust wheel in 04.

i have pulled my r32 gtr turbos out. i am trying to learn much more indepth about turbos. i have measured my compressor inducer and my turbine exducer and worked out they are a t25 turbo with a 42mm compressor inducer and 41.7mm exducer on the turbine. this means that my compressor should be a 54.4mm exducer and turbine should be a 53mm inducer. does that mean they are t2560r turbos? because that's what www.ztechz.net/id1.html suggests all the sizes are but i thought it should mean they'd be a t25 54.4R because the compressor exducer is 54.4? where have i gone wrong or do they just classify it a 2560? because there's no reference on the net to a t2554 or t2555? i'm trying so hard to get my head around it all. any help from someone in the know would be great! cheers, sam.

your car will start and idle with the afm unplugged. i'd try that. if you are running the engine and then pull the afm it will nearly stall for a few seconds (or maybe it will stall) and then it will pick back up and idle. you will then have the revs limited to 2500 rpm though but if it still stals and runs crap with the afm unplugged i'd assume the afm isn't the problem. the engine just assumes the air flow at idle and won't let you boost (hence 2500 rpm limiter)

i've removed the intake pipes and front turbo coolant lines and one oil line but i think the other oil line is under the exhaust manifold. can't get the bottom bolts off the exhaust manifold. i've moved my power steering pump and still no luck. can't get a socket on them! getting pissed off! i also can't crack any of my dump pipe nuts. i have a 14 mm socket on it and 13 is too small and 9/16 i think it is is identical to 14 mm. i've slipped around one of the nuts with the 14 and i've tried the blow torch and spraying lubricant all over it. second year apprentice mechanic and struggling big time. any one that's done this before that feels like sharing tips or a hand would be so much help. i'm going insane trying to get on those bottom bolts on the manifold. 0431398657 is my number. i live in west beach sa and would be back on the job again at around 4 if anyone is free! at the movies and then pub until then. cheers

2 injectors sold. 3 left. Going to justvsell them all. No problems with mine.

i'm happy to assist with installation tips or any other qestions you may have. i'm a second year apprentice mechanic and i did my own on auust the 6h. all fresh in my mind.

Standard r32 gtr injectors that have been cleaned and flow tested and top and ottom seals replaced. all pintle caps replaced. i have 5 spare but would like to keep one just in case. 440 cc yellow top injectors that were professionally cleaned and flow tested with all seals replaced. $60 each plus postage. i had mine cleaned and flow tested and one was leaking from the body (can't fix this) so i bought a second set of 6. all were good after clean and flow test so i had 11 good injectors. really only wanting to sell 4 but will sell 5 for the right price. text 0431398657 and i can mms you a picture. you're also welcome to call but not during work hours. 7:30 - 4:00 located in west beach SA can show a receipt for clean and flow test.

I work at hamilton Holden. Drive many gts's maloo's and plain clubsports. They all feel very similar except for the extra features in the gts. I haven't been in a 35 but I know they have nothing on the r35. Decent car none the less.

Just going through a few old replies I never read, this sounds more like a stuffed hot button on your climate control unit. I'd buy a second hand unit or take it to a small electronics store you often find one little old guy that owns it and will help with anything electronic. They'd be the two things I'd conceder anyway. Seen r32 climate control units on eBay for $200.

I had a dyne sheet given to me with the car and it read high 170's and it had the restrictors in and running standard boost with rebuilt steel wheel turbos and full 3 inch exhaust. It also has a factory tuned ecu (forget what tuner but a place that's closed now in Japan) so I estimated around 30 kilowatts extra at the flywheel from removing the restrictors and figured a safe guess of 200 at the wheels but I could be very wrong.

Good idea.

Well it's a gtr so it's putting out 200 stock with the boost restrictors removed. and that's enough for now. Maybe 250 in the future. What makes you think the 6 puk is so bad? Why is it bad? What is the difference in 6 puk to full face in feeling?

I'm weighing up clutches for my r32 GTR. I'd like to know the benefits of a full face clutch vs a 6 puk. From what I've read the 6 puks are a bit less driveable but I like that in a street car. it won't be my daily so I don't care if it's a bit of a button feeling. It's my preference. Also, I plan on doing it myself (second year apprentice mechanic loves a challenge) is it REALLY that hard? Or just time consuming? 200 kilowatts at the wheels and not sure what I'll need. Thanks in advance, Sam.

purchased. thanks.

i need one r32 gtr fuel injector that isn't leaking. mine are getting cleaned and flow tested and one is leaking. i think they are 444cc standard and it's off a 1989 r32 gtr if it makes a difference! it just CAN'T be leaking at all. maybe even a couple injectors if they're going cheap!

Can you tell me where the car is located?

Just the past month on a few occasions my clutch has made me worried when I've really relied on it and it's done wierd things and last night one quick squirt in second I'm fairly confident I felt it slip as it hit full boost. So onto the real topic, in my opinion. A clutch changes the way a car drives and makes it interesting or boring to drive. I like a heavy clutch that doesn't feel like you are pushing against cheese. I like a clutch that bites like a bit of a button. But I have heard a button clutch will die in every day driving. Is a cushion button clutch what I'm after? What is a cushion button clutch exactly? My friends gtr has in my opinion, a perfect clutch. He don't know exactly what it is though. A real button feeling, heavy pedal compared to my gtr. I'm running standard power with restrictors removed so I'd guesstimate 200 at the wheels. Anyone know where to buy, what to buy and how much? opinions would be great. Thanks.

Just the past month on a few occasions my clutch has made me worried when I've really relied on it and it's done wierd things and last night one quick squirt in second I'm fairly confident I felt it slip as it hit full boost. So onto the real topic, in my opinion. A clutch changes the way a car drives and makes it interesting or boring to drive. I like a heavy clutch that doesn't feel like you are pushing against cheese. I like a clutch that bites like a bit of a button. But I have heard a button clutch will die in every day driving. Is a cushion button clutch what I'm after? What is a cushion button clutch exactly? My friends gtr has in my opinion, a perfect clutch. He don't know exactly what it is though. A real button feeling, heavy pedal compared to my gtr. I'm running standard power with restrictors removed so I'd guesstimate 200 at the wheels. Anyone know where to buy, what to buy and how much? opinions would be great. Thanks.

i corrected it by winding the tap open a bit to bleed the pressure in the wastegate actuator out and it worked but i want to run minimal boost. (not my car but my mates 33) to get it to work i have to wind the boost up to about 11 psi and anything less, it will boost once then hold the pressure in the actuator and drives like a non turbo till about 4-5000. can i remove the ball and spring? what will this do as it says you can on turbosmart's webpage. thanks, sam.

mine was an easy fix. there are 2 restrictors, not just one in the line with the yellow band, but one in the other line to the PCM. it changed mine from .55 bar to .75 bar. .75 is just above the 350mm mercury line on the standard vacuum meter/boost meter.i'd estimate 500 to 550mm mercury.

got a serious extension up there and a knuckle and the 12mm socket and there's shit in the way. i can't get the socket fully on the bolt and i'm getting angry. can't possibly get it from the top, can't get it from the bottom. i am in serious need of help from someone who's done it before! iac removal from the intake manifold

i live in west beach SA and am having some trouble removing my intake manifold to get to a coolant leak. if anyone nearby has done this before and could lend a hand or any tips that would be sweet. i've resorted to cutting the hoses and i'll just have to replace them once it's off but even that is hard. rb26 is still in the car so it makes it tight and hard to get to bolts underneath the iac valve and a hose or two that aren't co operating. i've already removed all the nuts holding the intake on and there's a fair bit of movement in the manifold now. i'm fairly confident it's the iac held onto the manifold and the hose or two that are joining the iac to the manifold that holds it back. i'm a first year apprentice mechanic and would love a hand. don't have heaps of money at the moment sorry. could give you a 6 pack of heineken if you're interested! haha life of a first year apprentice owning a GT-R! i'll be persisting all day and may get it without help. i'll let you know. cheers

absolutely! give me a call or text on 0431398657 my name's sam and i'm on annual leave all this week so you can come anytime.