Samuel Leonard

HAHA! i really really need to start reading how old a thread is that i'm replying to. done this a few times now just using search. lol

You'd need to turn your ignition to on before pressing the brake pedal though because brake lights don't come on with no key in the ignition I don't think?

thanks heaps. i'll have a look tomorrow as i'm on annual leave at the moment. it's my daily driver so i have to do it before i go back to work on the 9th i think it is...

Here's where i'm at. i have a coolant leak from one or both of the hoses under the intake manifold towards the back of the engine (nearer the driver). i want to take the intake manifold off and replace every hose and clamp underneath it and fill it with genuine nissan coolant to avoid any leaks or corrosion (nescessary???) all nuts are off the maniifold and fuel lines under the manifold are still fixed to the manifold but the hoses either end are pulled off. i've pulled the hoses to the brake and clutch boosters off so it's just the two steel pipes stickking up through the manifold at the moment. my questions, is it easier to remove the hoses from the underside of the intake manifold and unbolt the iac valve housing to free up the manifold? or leave all iac valve components attatched to the manifold and remove the intake manifold with the iac valve still attatched? is that possible? anyone with experience removing the rb26 intake manifold, i need help! any info would be great on this removal. i'm pretty close as it is but the manifold isn't free yet. cheers

please have a look here last buyer didn't read i am in SA.

a single R32 gtr rim or a pair depending on the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260762822567&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Red R32 GT-R boot lid with no spoiler auction ends tomorrow approx 10 am

R32 skyline boot lid - no spoiler - perfect Up on eBay now. Search: 260762822567 on eBay. No reserve auction ends sunday.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260762822567 ebay link to a spoilerless r32 gtr boot lid in perfect condition. colour AH3 (wine red mica) no evidence of a spoiler.

and pcm = pressure control module. it's like a boost controller but factory and with the lines blocked to it the boost (on my r32 gtr) stays around .5 bar and with them unblobked (aka removing the factory boost restriction) it rises to about .75 bar when it drops (when running temp) it drops back to about .5 bar.

i don't bost cold. i warm it up for a couple of minutes in the drive way, i gingerly drive it till the coolant temp goes up to the middle of the guage and then i boost it sometimes to about 3500 (no higher) until my oil temp gets over 70 degrees. and it's in the time between the coolant reaching the meddle of the temp guage (probably about 60 degrees or around there i'd say) and till the oil temp gets to around 75-80 degrees(i change to watching the oil temperature because the coolant temp guage doesn't move any higher even though coolant temp increases) that it feels awesome. once the oil temp has sat at about 80-85 for a bit it starts to get sluggish (around the time i hear the viscous fan start to work hard) and the viscous fan (driven off the engine) kicks in at around 75 degrees on my car. is this odd? (going from a consult cable to a laptop)

Where might oneself buy one of these very wide bands, sir? And how much?

Does the ecu control the PCM valve? Or just monitor what it's doing? When my car warms up fully, the boost drops back a few psi and feels like it's being held back. If I were to unplug the PCM plug, what would happen?

with consult on it i think the highest temp i saw was about 85 degrees and the viscous fan was on at about 75?

you got any idea if i can buy a full genuine hose kit for it? i'll have to give a nissan dealer a call see if they can still get genuine and how much. probably pay the earth...

I might have to resort to insulting his birthgiver. Or tell him I have no problem with Toyota. My grandpa, dad and mum are all very happy

my favourite pics of mine gone back to standard rims now! SO GLAD I DID! LOVE THEM SO MUCH MORE!

so i had my car up on a hoist today and discovered a serious coolant leak. one of the hoses above the starter motor (i was obviously looking from underneath) it would be under the intake manifold at the back of the engine bay and it appears to just be a hose so... i plan on replacing all hoses and anything else i could encounter trouble with under the intake manifold at the same time, i may aswell replace all hoses in the engine bay at the same time. is there any hose kits i can buy or anything like that? also, need to replace the steel hose that runs across the front of the engine under the CAS. anyone want to part with one?

i work in a holden dealership (don't give me shit it's a good place to work and learn) but i've been having some trouble with a guy that's giving me constant shit about rb's and their oil pumps. and i mean constant. multiple times a day. he has a hsv clubsport (vx) so another guy that works there gives him shit about the gen 3 engine using engine oil. he has a track car that he drifts at mallala which is a soarer with a 1J in it and i need some thing to give him shit about specific to 1j and 2j engines. i know they are a great engine but i prefer RB's. any help? anyone?

The clicking noise is the solenoid of the starter motor ramming the starter out to connect with the flywheel. If the battery is too dead to crank it will just click loud and fast (the solenoid shooting out then dropping back in numerous times a second) Occasionally the motor might crank but I'd be checking battery first. Then starter motor connections.

No idea what a wideband is? Is it through consult? Program on a laptop perhaps?

No idea what a wideband is? Is it through consult? Program on a laptop perhaps?

I think one of your coil packs is dropping out. I've heard of that. Drive the car until it does it, pull over and pull coil pack leads off one at a time (replacing it if it DOES make a difference to the idle or even stalls) and when you pull one off that makes no difference what so ever, that coil pack or something to do with that cylinder is stuffed. I'd try the coil pack first though. A second hand one would be about $50 from the right wrecker. A whole set of coils will be about $300 from eBay (yellow jacket coil packs are great value) Hope this helps.

No ecu temp sensor is better than the wrong one. It assumes it's cold for a couple minutes then assumes it's warm.