Samuel Leonard

mine has this feeling but usually only on hot days. feels like the ecu massively holds it back. but then it feels awesome in the morning again. if you work it out let me know. i don't think it's an air leak otherwise it'd be a permanent thing. it's like it gets hot and then holds back. you hear boost way more and feel like, half the power.

as soon as you took the hand brake off my old car shut off. and even if you kept the hand brake on a little bit to try to beat the system it shut off after moving a meter or so.

could they be the standard t28's rebuilt with steel t25 wheels? i'd love to understand more about turbo's. i'm trying so hard!

i'm not considering t25's the previous owner had this done. would it be cheaper than t28's? the receipt reads $2600 total for everything.

they were rebuilt by Advanced Turbo Performance. i shouldn't say rebuilt because it just says in the labour on the receipt "Strip, clean and quote. Build CHRA's. Blast, paint and assemble." built on the 25th of nov 04. how long do turbo's last? am i stupid to remove the R32 GTR's factory boost restriction? will these exhaust wheels hold up compared to the standard t28's which i have heard will stuff the exhaust wheel and bearings down the exhaust? and what's the reason for changing to t25's from t28's? i would've thought t28's are better?

i have two rebuilt (nov 2004) Garrett T25 CHRA's with steel turbine wheels and 360 degree thrust bearings. I am a first year apprentice mechanic and just wondering what these things mean. few qestions specifically. T25's is this the turbo size? or can a t25 turbo come in different sizes? also, CHRA. what exactly does this mean? just water cooled and oil fed? what does a thrust bearing do? is it just the turbo's main bearing? the reason i'm asking all this is i'm thinking of removing the boost restrictor in the vacuum line to the pcm valve and wanting to know if these turbo's (rebuilt that long ago) will hold up. thanks in advance, Sam.

Copy 260709898660 Into eBay to see my auction for my r32 gtr boot lid in great condition. Wine red with the gtr badge.

Austion starts at $40 [/url] http://cgi.ebay.com....em=260709898660

Sorry :$ un helpful.

Double the length from the middle to one end...

i figured skylines australia would have a few people that like sounds that RB26's make.

please post this DIY!

Can this definitely mean master cylinder needs replacing? Or possibly hydraulic lines? And is this a job for the weekend if I buy a new master cylinder or book it into a workshop?

i might have to! it changes around so much!

video of my car and i just tried to keep the blow off sound going. any standard gt-r should make this exact noise with pod filters. this is my car.

i took my glove box out yesterday and pressed into the back of it was a build date. it's easy as! i also rigged the soft open mechanism to work again. it's awesome so mine was the 8th of september 1989 i know that as a fact using nissan fast too

cheers

ever wondered what the small round plastic thing is at the far left side of the front windscreen demister is? it's a sun load sensor for the climate control. when you hit econ instead of A/C it measures the direct sunlight and works hard when needed rather than just all the time. Heater or A/C not working well? Climate Control Diagnostics if you turn your ignition on and then hold the off button on the climate control for 5 seconds you will enter diagnostic mode. hit the temp increase button (red triangle) to test all sensors. if any sensor is giving wrong readings it will give you a code. 20 means nothing is wrong and 21 through to 27 will give you the sensor that is faulty. keep in mind, you must have direct sunlight on the sun load sensor for it to diagnose properly (otherwise it assumes the sun load sensor is stuffed) 20 - all is normal 21 - outside air sensor 22 - Inside air sensor 23 - Water temperature sensor 24 - Intake temperature sensor 25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen) 26 - PBR 27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor ever wanted the climate control to try harder to cool or heat? to enter full cold mode, turn the temp down to 18 degrees then hold the cold button. (figured this out accidentally) do the same for full heat but turn it up to 32 then hold the hot button. ever wondered where the climate control takes the interior temp reading from? just right of the ash tray there are little slots in the plastic. that's where. whilst moving if you turn the ignition off and on you lose all wheel drive until you stop.(fairly well known but maybe you didn't know) any more cool stuff, please let me know! i love finding these things out!

it came with an a4 binder full of receipts of EVERYTHING done to the car for the last 6 or so years... rebuilt high flowed standard turbos 24000 k's ago. full 3 inch exhaust and 4 inch tip (still got a cat and a muffler so it's quiet but a nice note) 4wd controller and a 4wd 2wd switch. and uhhhhhh. can't think what else :S

yeah. i'll post it here now. very standard. dyno sheet of 180kw at all four. runs so nice though.

when the car is cold and the oil is thicker, it gets up to about 4 or 6 on the oil pressure guage. then it drops back idleing when warm.

watch my walk around video of my burgundy R32 GT-R. also, if you could let me know whether your gtr's oil pressure does the same as mine that would be sweet.

http://www.dynamco.com.au/products_preview.php?model=P385-T it's been playing up due to a door lock actuator short. is it worth getting that fixed? or is it a cheap crap basic alarm system? previous owner installed it. thanks. know nothing about car security...

bump