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Everything posted by dynafit
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My Intake Pipe Design, Stalling Issue And Lean Popping
dynafit replied to SargeRX8's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
wow wtf? a pringles can?? im still laughing -
If you can drive for 40mins north, DVS_JEZ is the best tuner around. Give him a call, you wont be disappointed
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In other news... I'm anxiously awaiting my SS1-PU-Prototype and other bits to arrive from Stao. Chasing 280rwkw hi boost. Might even choose e85 for fuel and kick it up to 300+rwkw. Maybe. WTB more availability?
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22psi actuator means you cannot go below 22psi. I intend on having a low and hi boost setting, one for driving around as daily the other for playing with. Having a 14psi actuator means im allowed a minimum boost of 14psi while having a maximum boost of whatever i want (probably will be around 21psi).
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Whats your price for the SS1-PU Prototype with 14psi actuator? I'm keen as! PM if you want
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Lots Of Aftermarket Gtr Parts
dynafit replied to rhysc1986's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
providing they are brand new and with all associated parts, and will work with my 33 GTST, ill take the fuel pump and boost controller pick up friday (tomorrow)? -
gotta sell my car first and id take this car straight up.
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yeah you have to change the default from AAC to mp3 in the preferences. I found it, thanks only problem is, you have to do each song 1 by 1
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Hey Guys, I have a bunch of AAC type songs/.m4a that I want converted into .mp3. How do I do this with mass amounts? I am using an iMac and iTunes 10. My CD player doesn't recognise m4a Cheers
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Will a stock series 1.5 r33 gts airbox fit a series 2 r33 gtst?
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Anyone know about this? Its frustrating me. It all seems connected fine, but wont change anything to do with my boost. Cranked it up to 16psi and still only does stock.
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+1 On the drive back home, i left it with -2 degrees timing and it was ok. Got to like 14 or so in the whole 4 hours driving. Put BP ultimate in as i got home, then went for a 10km run. No abnormal knocking, only about 9 or so on the meter, with no timing changes. Going for another run later tonight see how it goes then.
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One way up the road, i got up to 9 on the knock meter. then, when i turned around and came back, it didnt change from 9. Thats why i said it had 0 knock. Before "elite racing" mentioned that the number displayed is actually the level of knock, not the amount of knocks, i never actually knew that. So, its possible that it knocked along the way home and didnt go above 9. I should have switched the motor off after one way, to then see what happened on the way back, but i never knew how the knock counter worked. I will do more testing tomorrow and see some results, as i will need to refil after the trip home so i will use BP to see if that works to check that possibility. I have booked a tune in for monday afternoon so if it isnt a petrol issue than i will see what the tuner can do. Thanks guys
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I will also try changing the fuel to BP ultimate when i next fill up, but i hope that wont be the issue. It would be a right pain in the arse if i had to only fill up at BP.
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Ok. I read your guide, and i have done for a while now its great fixed my airbag light blinking also which was a bonus! But, while trying to understand the map tracer and changing the ignition timing manually, i have not figured out how to see which cells need to be changed. How can you tell what cell or cells are knocking? and how can you tell what to change them to?
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I just got back from a run, where i set the timing back 5 degrees. It worked, i got a maximum of 9 knocks, with 4 coming from starting the engine (before i could change it). got 5 knocks one way, and then 0 on the return trip. Is there a way to permanently set it back 5 degrees instead of everytime i start the car? like make it the default setting or something.
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i bought the car tuned, and since the battery came out im guessing it reset itself. Spose i can contact the seller, but regardless i will need a retune it seems.