GodziRRa

Hi guys! Is the BNR32 fuel tank plastic HDPE? We’re going to repair a ‘94 Gtr this weekend, and just wanna make sure we got the right material for it. Thank you!

I just replaced my old krusty solenoid. And since I tested the resistance of the new one, I also tested the wirings because I have a voltmeter in my hand… and I remember before that my mechanic had some rewiring done. 🙂

Thanks for that detailed solenoidy reply! Just confused why the supposed terminal that’s giving 12v (ignition on) isn’t giving me any, and the terminal that shouldn’t is giving one. If this is the case then we’re problem free. 😊 Some parts of that old FSM still confuses me.

Because I got power at the horizontal terminal with the ignition on not the verical one. Just now I started the car, and at idle I’m getting 12v on both terminals. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hi guys, Just looked at the FSM regarding the RB26’s oem pcm valve/boost solenoid. It says valve terminal 1 and 2, didn’t say wire color etc. I’m no electrician so I’m not really familiar with the symbols. One terminal has a black verical line as some sort of symbol. Anyone can tell which is which? Because I did get a 12v output on a terminal that’s supposed to have none. 😅 Terminal one is for the yellow and blue wire, or that’s the black and red wire? TIA!

Hi guys! Installed a GReddy RB26 Aluminum I/C Pipes last week, now I notice there is a turbo wistle/whine during spools. I haven’t noticed them before, I dunno if it’s connected. Was thinking maybe it’s because the thick insulated rubber pipe (after the “Twin Turbo” pipe ) was replaced with a metal one that’s why the wistle is more audible now? That was our theory because that rubber pipe was insulated. Anyone had similar experience?

Yup, it’s different strokes for different folks, people will believe what they wanna. But I must disagree it’s just about those pretty packages. Remember, those old Porsches, Ferraris, etc. are also not into pure synthetics back in the day. But nowadays, that’s what they recommend for their old models too. Oil technology have gone very far now, anything that gives optimum performance, and will prolonging engine life will be the one recommended. I agree with mick, "ya pay for quality". Because at the end of the day, better quality = more cost. As the saying goes, and this is a car enthusiast favorite, you get what you paid for. ?

Since it's not mentioned, I just like to add that 15W50 is one of the most popular oil viscosity choice among GT-R owners around the world. I even remember in GTROC U.K, there was a poll back then, 15W50 came on top, followed by 10W60. GT-R's RB26 is high revving so they like these kinds of "thick" oil. Nismo in fact, has these oils recommended for the RB26. Nismo competition oil 15W50 and Nismo RB26 oil 10W60. The 10W60 is more of the street / track performance one, while the 15W50 is more like the 300V, a race oil. Also an Evo (CT9A) driver here, and I can tell, these boys has different taste when it come to their oil. Here's the Nismo 10W60 RB26 oil BTW.

Old post but very nice work!! Have to bring this up for future reference though. This issue on the smoked indicators might not be because of alignment. This aftermarket indicators (colin I think) are known to have minor fitting issue, especially the L side. Need to drill or adjust mounting hole to make them fit flush properly. You guys should've tested an OEM indicators first before adjusting. If you set the body alignment based on this aftermarket, then I'm afraid the work is misalignment now.

PMed.

Hello! I'm selling these week used red brake rotor cover from JDM company Slash. It is made of aluminum and is about 1mm thick. Easy installation. Here are some pics. Price is 183AUD, but the item though is currently at Manila Philippines so there will be an extra shipping charge. Here are some item reference- http://www.rhdjapan....cover-set-63210 http://www.slashowy...._gtrh_drc1.html (Slash JDM website)

Thanks GTRsean!! So this is for the Heater Core? Maybe that explains it since the Jap mechanic that maintains the car before had removed the heater from the car. Was anxious that some important electrical plug has been disconnected. Car is BNR32 by the way. So the BNR34 harness doesn't have that terminal plug anymore?

Good day guys! Was checking out the engine bay today when I noticed one plug is loose on the side of the igniter. Can you guys please help me identify these?? Harness view... (one in the middle) Any inputs will be very much appreciated.

Well you guys might also want to know since I verified today that in some cases it is NORMAL for the RB26 to have a more or less 0.40V difference between the MAFs. Next thing to check in this elusive problem is fueling.

I did that mate. I used another MAF, new ECU, checked the voltage signal and ground of the socket via test light... but no success. I just don't know about the turbos though. But the thing is the car has a cold start problem, and idle is rough when cold. I need to press the gas pedal a bit just to start it when cold. And another thing I notice today is when I step on the gas pedal a bit the rear MAF w/c is low reading will rise above 1V (but still lower than the front MAF), but when I release the pedal the rear MAF will go as low as 0.40 V (engine will shudder a bit) then will rise again to 0.75 or 0.80 V... whereas the front MAF will just go down to 1 V.

Hi guys! What is the correct GT-R RB26DETT MAF voltage when key on but not started, and when it is at idle? Got some troubleshooting w/ my cold start problem lately, and found out that my MAFs are giving different values all the time. For example when I turned the key on, the other reads 0.25 v while the other is only 0.18 v. But when the car is on idle that is where the difference becomes bigger, 1.25 v vs. 0.80v . Any inputs will greatly be appreciated.

Hello mates! Can any of you gurus help me identify these plug/socket (encircled in red) is for? It's a GT-R BNR32 positive terminal harness. 2 pin plug. 1 pin socket They are near the oil pressure sending unit socket. Thanks!!

Actually, I haven't done anything as of yet. It is running Mine's ecu, factory fuel pump, gas is 100ron, plugs are BCPR7ES, at idle I could hear a "thud thud" sound at the muffler every 15sec. or so... but it's not so loud though. It's a misfire right? I'm also looking at water and temperature sensor also.

Hello gurus! A bit of a problem here. My GT-R has been having some weird problem lately. It would not start if the engine is cold, I have to step on the throttle a bit just to start it. If I don't step on the gas, It would take about 2 or 3 tries before the car would start. And I think it is running rich above the GT-R standards... the plugs were full of black carbon just after about 1000kms of use. And the car is a bit sluggish. I'm not sure but I think the running rich issue is connected to the car not starting when cold. The car does not have any error codes on it by the way. So I'm clueless as of the moment. Any inputs would greatly be appreciated. Thanks!

What patch lead mate? By the way I've heard this oem amp will not work on aftermarket head units. True? And why did the guy from Japan by pass it? Not that knowledgeable on sound systems that's why.

Hello guys! Just a bit of question about the small clarion amp in the trunk. Today, when I was checking out mine I saw that the harness plug for the said amp was unplugged, and has been plugged to some kind of bypass socket. When I did plugged the harness back to the oem amp. My rear speakers stopped working. Is my amp busted or it has been bypassed for another kind of sound set up? Thanks in advance!

Just as I thought... another one. Tell me if it solves the problem. My HKS t.t has a harness by the way, that is what I unplugged. I just wish someone can tell us a solution on this besides having to drop the whole Hicas off. I also noticed that this situation happens a lot on GT-R32s and not on any other Nissan that also has Hicas during it's time.

Hi!! I've heard of others having the same situation like mine. My GT-R32 has been having this flickering Hicas light for quite sometime already. What happens is that it will light up (sometimes w/ matching knocking sound at the Hicas pump area) at high revs and during high electrical load. Checked all the connections, alternator, battery, you name it... all are A ok. Still can't locate the culprit. But I sort of suspect my HKS T.Timer has to do something about it. So last night I disconnect my HKS T.T, and test drive it today and... voila! No more Hicas flickering! Now for you guys who has this similar problem, how do you deal w/ it? Is it the e-brake or earth connection? I know the BNR32's Hicas system is super sensitive on voltage... What could it be. Hope you can help me guys. Thanks in advance!

Thanks guys! Actually I was using the HKS T.Timer harness for GT-R as well so I think the pin where it gets it's voltage reading from is the right one. Well sometimes the reading difference we're as high as .60 volts, a bit high. Sometimes it will give 11.80 reading on load, that is why I'm sort of anxious about it. Yeah sorry about the wrong thread section since there were posts there that are about boost controllers also.

Hi Guys! Just want to ask if any of you guys using the HKS Turbo Timer also have experienced this. I noticed that the HKS T.T reads the battery voltage differently from the reading I get from the oem battery gauge and from the battery terminal thru a voltmeter. It tends to be lower for around .30 volt. Any inputs? Thanks!