GodziRRa

GT-R alternators have higher amps and bigger pulleys... I think there is a guy here that sells rebuilt alternators. There was a thread here that I saw. You can search for it.

Now I must know where all the earth ground is for the GT-R. The battery has not been relocated, I think the cables are just fine. The problem just got a bit worse in the past few weeks and I haven't done anything. Initially I suspect alternator. No parasitic key off load by the way, already test it.

Wow nice work. Seems you are into electronics. Anyways, I ran a consult w/ the car and you're right there ain't no error code. It's just that when the engine running the alternator seems to give weak voltage output, and I believe does not fully charges my battery as well (w/c is a 4 month old optima yellow). Battery voltage around 12.48 engine off, alternator voltage is 13.5 initially then drops as low as 12.9 when warm. So your GT-R before does not have a weak alternator?

Is that the "Engine Control" fuse? I also feel the Hicas is actually telling me that my what... ummm 91' alternator has some symptoms of giving up already. Coz I notice on the road that every time all accessories are on, high beam also... the Hicas light comes flickering. Then when I try to unload a bit, the Hicas flickering light stops.

I have a test of the battery and alternator again using a voltmeter. Before I start the car the battery was reading 12.5V. When I started it, initially it was around 13.30 - 13.50, that's the alternator output right. But after the engine was warm w/ the electrical stuff running like headlights, a/c, radio.. the voltage will be as low as 12.90 especially on high beam.

Guys thanks for the reply. Anyways I do have a volt meter. I measured the battery when the car is off, and measured it again when the car is started. The values were 12.5 and 13.6 respectively. But I did not have a chance to measure it when the car is all warmed up and when it began to show 11.90 reading. I notice that when this happens my Hicas light starts to flicker during high rpm and when I put on my headlights high beam. So I confirm that these Hicas is indeed sensitive on voltage. By the way, you guys mentioned heat. These babies really put up much heat under the hood. Maybe a wire in a very hot area...

Hi guys! I have been experiencing some battery voltage drop when driving for around an hour. I would get a reading of 11.9 V from my HKS turbo timer (triple gauge battery voltmeter haven't checked it though ). This will also cause my Hicas light to flicker. The Hicas is a bit sensitive on voltage drops right? But when the car has just been started it's just fine having 13 + volts. Is this a sign of my alternator going out? Car is GT-R BNR32 by the way. Hope you guys can help me out.

Hi Guys! I noticed this weird thing that my car does. During driving my Hicas light turns on once in a while but flickers a lot (w/ matching knocking sound at the bottom of the car sometimes) when turning on my high beam. First I think of was maybe one of my hicas wire is open or something... Any suggestions guys? Thanks!

Hi guys Roy and Basti! It's from Manila. And yes it's a converted LHD GT-R. Our local laws don't allow us to drive RHD cars unfortunately.

My silver steed. GT-AARRR!

Hi guys! Just installed my new AAC valve in my GT-R. Now my question is do I still have to adjust the setting screw that came out of the box or it's an "oem" setting? By the way how do I reset the idle... Do I still need to do so? By the way is the TPS screw also used for adjusting idle? Thanks guys!

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Well it would more complicated to maintain than a Silvia. Ya know the so called "technological tour de force" the GT-R is tagged in... But you won't use it as daily driver anyway right? Twin turbo, inline 6, awd, g-sensors, 6 throttle, etc. etc. But bottom line when you own this legendary beast from Japan. It's all worth it. If you could find a low mileage BNR32 that would be another option I recommend also. Since we all know what the original Godzilla did in motorsports, while the BCNR33 is treated as the least achiever of the R bros. by critics. Low mileage BNR32s can go as high as 34s in Japan.

If you really want a Nismo side skirts. My best bet is to get a used one from Japan. Try bidjdm.com, it's a real time Japanese auction. Tons of very nice used and new parts for them GT-Rs.

Actually I'm not that sure if the one I got is hollow. But the Japs say it's made of FRP. Actually I'm contacting other shops that sell these to compare. And if I can find something lighter I might give it a shot. Or maybe I'm just fussy w/ the sudden add of weight on my trunk.

Hi! Just got myself a Nismo boot lip spoiler copy from Japan. It's quite ok just use double adhesive on it... but when I installed it, I immediately notice the "heaviness" on the trunk when I open it. For the guys who also have this, do you also experience this? Wondering now if the legit Nismo drag spoiler (w/c is out of production) are not as heavy as the copy ones, even if it's from Japan. Thanks!

Sounds like a lot of work.

Thanks guys for the tips!! Really? I thought it's just adjust all you want w/ the idle screw. How do you do this base idle mode in the ECU mate?

What's the best way you guys suggest on finding a sneaky leak? And on your experience w/c part usually gets busted the AAC or the IAC valve? I tried turning the screw of the aac valve deep enough but the idle is still the same.

Hi guys!! My GT-R is idling at 1050 rpm. Already cleaned the AAC valve before, butterflies were also checked... the car runs fine though. It's just the idle that keeps me wondering. So GT-R gurus, is it just fine or there is something wrong w/ it? Thanks in advance guys!

Thanks for the reply bro! Actually it happens when the engine is one... Damn! Now how to locate this vacuum leak? This would be quite hard since this problem does not happen regularly. Any advice mate?

You can also check out BidJDM.com. It offers "real time" bidding on Japanese auctions. It's owned by the boys of RHD Japan as well.

Hi Guys! Got this bit of a problem w/ my GT-R BNR32 clutch pedal. I have a Nismo super coppermix twin, new master and slave clutch cylinders. I noticed that there are times that when I step on my clutch pedal sometimes it's hard and I can hear an air like sound that goes "shhhhhh" along w/ it. But right after that pedal feel, it goes back to normal. This happens a lot especially when the car is not used for like 5 days straight. I have a push type clutch by the way. Hope GT-R gurus here can help me. Thanks!!!

By the way among the bunch the R33 has the not so impressive reviews by critics worldwide for not having the same supernatural performance the R32 had.

BNR32 since this is the specific GTR is the reason why they are called "Godzilla" for it's motorsports feat that is untouchable by any other japanese sportscars to date.