Chris32R

Ok guys. Really need this gone now as I have found a kit that suits my requirements better. $4000!

Yes it does. Yep, To suit R32 and R33 GTR. Turbos are on hold atm. I'm going through messages now. If you have any questions, please call, SMS or post in this thread because my PM isn't working for some reason. Thanks

Not sure why it's not working?? SMS replied to. Thanks

Hey guys, Selling a lot of parts off my GTR due to going single T04Z turbo and upgrading most other parts. Used but in excellent condition Blitz Pod Filters and pipes to suit GTR - $150 R34 GTR Turbos Rebuilt with steel exhaust wheels under 15,000kms ago. Minimal shaft play and in excellent condition. Cost $2500 when purchased (have receipt to prove) - $800 New Tomei Poncams Type B - $650 GTR BOVs in good condition. Comes with piping brackets,etc.. - $110 R32 GTR intercooler in excellent condition. No dents kinks, etc... - $120 Twin turbo piping, intercooler piping, standard dump pipes, front pipe, etc... - $offers? 5 factory forged R32 GTR rims with tyres. 4 rims are wrapped with Kumho KU36 tyres which have 80-90% tread left. The spare is wrapped in Bridgestone GIII with 70% tread. The rims are in really good condition. The spare has some light rash but the others are fine. Rim specs are 16" x 8" +30 and tyres are all 225/50/16. Looking for $800ono for the 5 rims and tyres. Not bad value considering I paid just under $1000 for the 4 KU36 tyres alone. Complete front and rear brake setup out of my R32 GTR. Included is 4 brake calipers 70k kms old, 2 front drilled rotors, 2 slotted rear rotors and a set of brake pads to suit with plenty of meat left. Looking for $500ono. Standard Coilpacks off R32 GTR that;s done a genuine 70,000kms. Excellent condition. Never missed a beat. $50ono Cobalt Air/Fuel Ratio meter. $40 Standard Air flow meters off R32 GTR. The joints have been re soldered recently by my cousin who is an electrician - $50 Exhaust manifold with heat shields - $100 ono R32 GTR custom oil cooler kit. This was a custom made kit made by Tenegah. The oil cooler sits in front of the subframe and has an under tray with scoop that draws air to the oil cooler. It also comes with a Greddy oil filter relocater. It comes with everything required to fit. - $300 Located in Perth but can post at buyer's expense. PM or contact 0402870429 if interested Thanks

Would also like the answer to the above question as I will be tackling an Apexi D Jetro install very soon.

Hey guys. I bought this kit from a member of this forum a couple of months ago. I haven't actually fitted the kit to my car due to change in direction (going to go GT35R). Everything is in mint condition and just by looking at the parts list, no expense has been spared. Here is a copy and paste of the original ad: Hey guys i have up for sale a complete custom made t04z turbo setup the manifold is a custom etm (extreme turbo manifolds) manifold which is cermaic coated (chrome) with a tial 44mm wastegate with screamer pipe that is branched off the turbine housing for the best boost control. it has a custom made etm 4inch dump pipe which is also ceramic coated (chrome) also have all the water oil lines included ok so what you get 15000kms old garrett t04z with a cermaic coated .81 rear housing a custom etm ceramic coated steam pipe manifold tial 44mm wastegate with screamer pipe 4inch stainless dump pipe also ceramic coated oil line to turbo oil drain from turbo and 2 x water lines to the turbo to suite rb26 all line braided 200 series teflon Photos can be found in this link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/343540-t04z-complete-turbo-setup/page__p__5539070#entry5539070 I'm chasing 4500$ono. I'm located in Perth. I can post interstate if required. Either PM me or contact me on 0402870429. Thanks

Must be reading the wrong threads then. That's definetly a decent gain. I take it that peak power levels were about the same?

I've done a search and can't find a definitive conclusion whether or not a split pulse manifold and turbo is 'that' much better than a single entry type. I understand how it all works but was wondering how much better the results are in terms of power and response over a single entry turbo and manifold on a 6 cylinder motor. Anyone have any dyno comparisons or experience in the matter? Thanks.

I'll grab 1 gearbox plug and 1 black hole magnets. Is the diff plug the same as the ones in an R32 GTR? If so I'll grab 2, one for the front and one for the rear diff.

Jesse Streeter and perfectrun. Have used both with great delivery times and good prices.

Ok thatnks. Yeah the cams are Jun 272 9.7mm lift on both intake and exhaust. So now do I need shims when I install them? Hmmm this is starting to sound very complicated. I thought the Jun cams would just drop straight in and nothing else would be needed except new seals, gaskets, etc...?

I beleive the 9.7mm cams I've got are the biggest lift cams made that could fit in an unmodified head. Yep I've just downloaded the service manual and yeah I always torque every bolt that i can up to the required spec. I'm very fussy when it comes to my cars . Where can the idler and tensioner bolts be purchased from? Thanks for the help.

Ok to make sure that i got this right. First thing to do is remove Cas bracket. Turn the motor to 20 degrees before TDC (I thought it was easier to have it lined up right on TDC?). Cable tie cam gears to timing belt and support cam gears so that they don't fall. Undo and carefully slide both cam gears evenly off the camshafts. The rest of the process is just slowly and evenly undoing the cam caps starting from the middle and working your way out. Remove cam. Lubricate the new cam lobes, cam buckets, lifters and journals. Install new cam and slowly tighten cam caps starting in the middle working your way outwards.Install new cam seals. Replace the old cam gears with your new ones making sure that they are in the same position as the old ones. Install cam gears. The rest of the process is pretty self explanatory. Am I on the right track? Anyone know the torque rating that I should torque everything to?

I'm going to be installing a pair of 9.7mm 272 camshafts and HKS cam gears in my RB26 soon. Just wanted to know if there is any tips or advice on how I should tackle this? I've read about people doing a cam swap without completely taking the timing belt off. How can this be done? What parts (gaskets,seals, etc..) should I replace whilst I have everything apart? The head has been rebuilt (still to standard specs) and has HKS Step 2 valve springs already instalkled. Thanks

Thanks for the great info guys. I would prefer to have an O2 Sensor working in there tbh. Last question, how should I wire up both the cables so that both O2 signals get the same and accurate readings from the one O2 sensor to the ECU?

Just a quick question. I'm going to be running 1 O2 sensor on the dump pipe on my soon to be single turbo R32 GTR. The dump pipe is off an R33 GTR but will be modified to work on an R32 GTR. The bung that's on there is to suit an R33 GTR O2 sensor. Can I buy an R33 GTR O2 sensor and fit it and have it plug and read correctly on my 32R? I'm going to be using an Apexi Power FC D Jetro for my ECU. Thanks

Did you have to do any head modifications to get the Greddy cams to fit? I always thought the poncams type b was the biggest you could go without modifying the head?

And if that sale doesn't go through then PM me and I'll definetly take it

Who did you get the kit from and how was the quality and fitment? Thanks

For sale I have a pair of brand new Garrett 2860-5 to suit GTR. They are untouched still in their original box. Looking for 2200$. Located in Perth but will post interstate. Thanks

Xtreme single plate ceramic clutch. It used to clunk slightly on occasions like a normal heavy duty clutch would but you could drive around it. After it came back from the repair it did it pretty badly in reverse and slightly in first when taking off. It never used to do this before then.

Hmmm the clutch is aftermarket but was just a remove and refit when they did the rear main seal. If I drive it like that will it do any damage to anything? Would that mean they would be responsible to fix it at no cost to myself? Thanks for the help.

Mine only started clunking last week. When reversing and you are on the friction point the drivetrain starts shuddering. In 1st it does it slightly but all other gears are fine. The gearbox was removed and refitted to fix a rear main seal at around the same time it started happening. Any ideas what this could be and how to fix? Sorry for the slight thread jack but it could be related. Thanks.

You know I'm always keen for a Group Buy Phil!

Thanks for the help. I take it that those places are making them out of fiberglass and not plastic? How much is it for the blank button nismo?