Borci88

I was buying some fittings the other day at a local workshop and we got to talking about Garrett + Pulsar and he said he had a mate of his that bought a Pulsar turbo that made about 70% of what it should have made, so he switched it to the equivalent Garrett and it made the power stated on the box. That's the ONE experience I know of that was negative, so far I have gotten the impression that they receive overwhelmingly positive feedback. I think for the price they are still very impressive, and I'm willing to take a gamble, as I'm doing 95% of the install/work myself, so if the turbo is shit oh well.. can always replace part down the track. Going back a little bit how people mentioned a G35-900 and then buy a twin scroll housing from ATP in the states, unless I read the prices wrong, for a G35-900 without turbine housing, and then add a nice new twin scroll 1.06 turbine housing, I wouldn't expect to see any change from $5,100 AUD shipped to my door. For that money, may as well just go the tried and true method of an EFR. Anyway we'll see, Sinco manifold is 5+ weeks off by the time it's manufactured, and I think I'll hold off until after summer to pull the turbo side off. I've owned this car 7+ years and I think I've spent about 2 of those summers with a working car...

👀 Sinco has a 5 week backlog and I still want a functioning car throughout summer rather than have it sit there in pieces so don't hold your breath! But I'll start putting money down on parts probably this week..

It does indeed, however it only helps by muddying the waters some more 😛 because that is a very impressive result with not too much lag on what is a stock 26 helped with VCAM and E85.. I still think everythings pointing to a G35-900 however, as I'd like it to come on full boost closer to 4000... however maybe I'm being optimistic.

My fear is that a I'll spend all this money converting to single turbo, and a G30-900 won't even be able to crack 500kw. Both the G30 and G35 come in a .85 Twin Scroll rear housing if I bought a Pulsar version which is good, however if I was to go any bigger AR then I would be sacrificing twin scroll to go to V-Band. I think you and GTSBoy are on the same page and I have been leaning towards the G35 all along (only with one friend of mine screaming in my ear to go G30). I'll need to go back through this thread to find some more results but I seem to remember G35-900s making very good power (500+kW) out of smaller rear housings, something which the older turbos weren't as capable of.. I also see that @Full-Race Geoff is fond of the .6x rear housings and smaller rear housings throughout the entire G series range. I think G35 is going to be the goer but I'll wait a little bit and see if anyone chimes in why that would be a disastrous idea, cheers for your vital input you two!

Not the best pic and rpm or psi are not overlayed, however you can see it is quite linear regardless. This is with the setup listed above.

Hey all, after some advice in regards to what turbo I should be aiming for to replace my aging -5s. If possible, I'm aiming for 500+rwkw without going 35psi, while hopefully still, being more responsive than my -5s. I haven't got a big flowing head and cams so I imagine I will be pushing the single turbo quite hard, however if possible I'd like to remain around the 25psi mark to meet my goals. Tell me I'm dreaming if I am.. My current setup is as follows: Racepace RB28 bottom end RB25 NEO Non-Turbo head with VCT RB25 Neo Turbo STOCK Intake camshaft / HKS 260 degree Exhaust camshaft (mismatch I know) No porting other than removing the humps in the exhaust ports, however the intake and exhaust ports are far smaller than turbo heads -5 Turbos with dumps 3" HKS Exhaust with front pipes and decat E85 Haltech Elite 2500 Approximately 435rwkw @ 23psi I believe it comes on boost at around 4500rpm, unfortunately I don't have a dyno graph with RPM overlay and PSI. As you can see, the head and camshafts are going to be the limiting factor and I'm not looking to change them at this stage. I've been told that a GTX3582RS GEN 2 would be the go-er, which seems like is it roughly equal to a G35-900 anyway.. and even then, due to the small head, would I be better off with a .83 dual V-Band rear housing? Or go larger and get the 1.01 dual v-band rear housing? Pulsar now also sell a .85 twin scroll T4 as well. To sum it all up, I THINK A G30-900 or G35-900 is probably the right turbo for my goals. I was thinking of using the SINCO T4 Twin Scroll mentioned by @Dose Pipe Sutututu as that's barely any more money than a 6booby and seems much better anyway. I assume a G30 isn't going to cut the mustard for 500+kw though? For those who haven't seen, Racepace recently ran up a G35-900 with SIMILAR setup to mine and made 565rwkw on 26psi, I just don't know how laggy it is, although Racepace aren't known for building laggy cars usually. Might need to pop in and see what they say about it. (Pic attached is Racepace build not my car) https://fb.watch/geIcPyDzBs/ Keen to hear everyone's opinions on it as it's quite a rare combo of top and bottom end.

Did you happen to get a dyno graph by any chance Butters?

If you continue to tune an RB beyond what the known limits of certain parts are, just because E85 is allowing it to keep going no problem... then you shouldn't be touching a tune file in the first place.

I can physically feel the VCT engaging, VERY noticeable difference in torque with the VCT plugged in. I use this controller to tell it when to turn off and on. http://www.nzefi.com/product/variable-cam-timing-vct-controller-r33-rb25det/

Bryce I'm currently using this kit. I have to pre-warn you though and tell you that the creator is not very transparent, it took me almost 3 months from payment to receiving the product. Told me that his machinist was giving him the run around, and it wasn't until the machinist messaged me personally that I received the whole picture and not the one side. He takes the orders before even telling his machinist to make the kits and does not keep large stock of them in advance. NOW, this kit is fantastic... I currently use it on mine with an RB25 Neo head with an RB26 block. The unit takes its feed from the pressurised oil in the side of the block, and the solenoid then turns on or off and allows oil to flow into the head. The piece that gets screwed into the head is like a dummy VCT Solenoid, and sends oil into the correct port and then up into the VCT Gear. The kit was pretty damn easy to install and I'd say pretty discrete as well. I had actually tapped a hole in the front of the head because I didn't realise this was an option, instead welded that back over and went with this kit and happy I did.

m8 send me the engine and I'll just build it at home for ya, at least you'll get it sometime this year!

Run a second braided fuel line. In theory a single 8mm fuel line will support around 600hp or slightly above that with 98, throw in E85 and your engines demanding 30% more fuel. I run twin Walbro 255 with dual feed to the factory RB26 rail and that should in theory be good for almost 1000hp. (Rail and 8mm return line being the next restrictions). In saying all that though, I have seen Walbro 460s run over 400kw so a change of filter is your cheapest best option currently.

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/unrbwihatupr.html Can confirm with these guys if they're different, but I'm pretty sure they're the same as it's the exact same engine with no extra sensors.

I'd love to have a copy Johnny if you'd be so kind. I am ordering an Adaptronic Modular soon and just assumed that the Skyline plug n play Modular came with a decent base map, seems not!!

Steve just to clarify in your original post. The catch can return hose is being re-routed to the rear turbo INTAKE pipe. The idea behind that is that the catch can catches all the oil vapour, but returns the air back to the intake and into your engine (creating a sealed legal system). This also allows the catch can system to be more efficient as well. Good write up though! You should definitely fill people in on the custom turbo setup and what other goodies you have hidden away! - Matt from RPM.

Would this work with the Modular ECU?

New set of -5s are $2500, a Borgwarner EFR is $2600 minimum, $1300 for a manifold and then your intake piping, exhaust piping, lines and fittings... Not even slightly the same money. My two cents is, you've bought ANOTHER set of second hand turbos after your first set of second hand turbos failed? Not a great idea... Rebuild your original ones or go a single would be your most reliable options. Also, your car would be faster with stock cams in it.

Oh Shiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

^ Agreed with discopotato. Am an advocate for going 25 head as well. I don't think there's really much point in taking out the squish pads, you would only start thinking about that in 800+hp drag cars and none of us are doing that... A lot of us are running E85 nowadays also so squish pads can stay in for that too.

My Co-worker is 21 and called VVC last week, got told the rules have very recently changed and you now need to be 25 when starting a new policy apparently.

All GTR owners are knob heads

Are you sure it's not just a leaking cam seal Bryce?

I would love to see a GTR make 800hp on 98 through a single 8mm fuel line... let alone when you add E85..

BKR6E at .07 or 0.8mm. No chance you will be able to run a 1.1

Cheers Jose_man!