PROXIMITY

play comes from worn out tie rod ends yes. Replace front and rear at same time, and get a wheel allignment.

Generally the lower arm and steering arm takes all the abuse from a gutter lol, i would pretty much say lca would be your problem. Source another 2nd hand one and maybe get some whiteline offset bushes that give small amount of correction and are much more suited to street than a/m arms.

King springs are terrible ( well in my experience ) they ride like shit super hard/ stiff, no variable rate either. Lovells springs are great, and i dont mind Universal.

r32 front and s14 rear =) Otherwise just do it on the cheap and buy some lowered hardened springs for about $350 whole set, still ride awesome !

Yeh top hats, i dont think their is anything more. I run bilsteins in front of my 33 i love em. But have you thought about changing your spring rates in your coilovers, will save alot of money and you still kepp your adjustability. 6kg be nice for everyday use =)

+22 sits pretty well flush and looks ballers. Generally around 35 or so sits in and is what most people run that dont want wrong attention.

Yes its just a cheap chinese brand. Swap the front 2 keep the cheapies on the back =)

As said above. You could get reringed, gaskets, bearing seals from as low as 1g but you could go up to 3-4 g if you get sweet pistons, head work cams and so on.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wt...im-t309918.html r34 turbo and r33 turbo in this wtb thread both in adelaide.

The factory gauge is a joke lol its far from correct. Did you hear alot of detonation or bad noises if not should be ok. But yes check you have blocked off other lose hoses. It should be running 9psi if no bleeder/ restrictor in vac line.

Sorry i understood it as no differences only minor not mentionable. I have a r32,r33 and a ceffy currently, i have changed between all these turbos mentioned, and from my experience i believe the nylon wheel does come on much faster and pulls harder. And i said near 500rpm. i have had this conversation with a reputable Turbo dealer here who says same thing. Also having a non tuned rb20 stock ecu running 13psi with a sII turbo making 197rwkw says something aswell, when all the s1 with same mods make around 180-185. My 2 cents not having ago, just saying what i have experienced, and i dont think Nissan just changed to nylon for no reason.

All the rubber booots and springs were intact with no splits ? checked all coil connections ? I wrap my coil boots with electrical tape this has always helped me alot. Clean your cooler out, over long periods of time or with high crankcase breathing oil will reside in bottom of cooler, once heated it mists up when under load helping to drop spark/ cylinder.

How is nylon wheel SII identical to a twin blade alloy wheel on a SI. The nylon wheel comes on near 500rpm faster and is slightly larger. Have seen a few cheap on the forums lately around $250, keep checking regularly. Or try Bill at Ats , was some months back when he done some work for me and said he sells them around $350. With all other mods expect close to 200rwkw depending on health of engine.

very late model r33's also come with OP6 rear housing, it just makes more top end power, but makes boost come on a lil later. And the nylon wheel gives better boost response, which is used in R33 II and r34, the twin alloy blade is in series I. Just looked at your avatar,i use both 34 and 33 sII on my rb20's and i prefer the 33 comes on much quiker, i dont like the OP6 on them. Only get the Op6 if your getting Hypergear to do one of its big highflows for max rwkw.

Also if the line was leaking it would be running alot more boost than it should not cool, and that restrictor brings on boost quiker i have found. Maybe your wastegates are faulty ? But yes on a gtr i would have a decent EBC

Yes op6 is stamped on the rear housing when looking at it from the front.

Their is some hard silicone ones direct fit but are around $100 or more. I used a 3" pipe slightly less than 90' bend and cut to length,then just one silicone adaptor on turbo and cut the end of factory inlet for the pipe/afm end. Cost about $50 for pipe and adaptor, sounds sweet.

Get the face machined, cheap stuff is never true. Use genuine gaskets and some sealant.

I use a turbo smart dual stage on 1 car and hks evc III on another, i dont think you can go past ebc. But i like what Duncan has said above with the oil pressure switch.

I think i have this bov in the shed will check.

Auto electrician FTW someone that has doen it before. But i would of thought they be same considering both rb's and the later N/a

Autobarn sell the bullshit expensive Apexi ones. But i would simply go an K&N panel in airbox with nice 3-4" duct into it from front bar.

When i have had faulty afm the car has never just stopped. Alarms cause alot of problems, maybe try disconnecting it all.

Timer perhaps or faultly connection somewere. I had similiar problem and my loom plug was just not in power fc properly/ enough, i just unplugged and re plugged and done up tight again.

But if you had to turn it back to stock, strate from the inlet to wastegate would pass inspection.