legend01

^^^^^ totaly agree with Simon-R32 my rb20 makes 300rwkw and i snapped 3 drive shafts b4 I went to r32 gtr diff and drive shafts no probs since also use rb25 box

Inlet temps are high as had been on the dyno for an hour and a half and being a new motor at that time 1800klms was its first tune and a warm day for that time of year ,a week latter it made 250rwkw by 4200 rpm at uas dyno day but had issues with leaning out (problem was found to be non venting fuel cap so watch for that one boys)it has made more power that that but I dont have a dyno graph of it so make no claims . Tuner has tried convincing me to go with a bigger turbo and an after market plenum it could well exceed the 350rwkw mark but since I have bought a gtr now im no longer going to be playing with this engine it will be up for sale soon cheers Peter

I too would like to add my name to the list Please cheers Peter

GTST is right, thats what I used and put the air intake to the front bar for a ram effect which works well and thanks for linking to my thread GTST a picture explains better.If you look close at the airbox you will see the afm plug is into the air box,using an old afm this is an easy mod and keeps the boys in blue of your back . Abu the airbox to turbo pipe is 90mm same at turbo inlet and custon outlet on the airbox all made to look as stock as possible .If you look close at the engine pic in the link you can see between the crossover pipe and the rockercover the plumb back pipe which plumbs back the the new airbox to turbo pipe so all looks legal cheers Peter

IS it bug eye type ??

My R32 still runs the standard airbox and is making 306rwkw but uses cai and a hks filter.We cracked open the airbox on the dyno to see if it made a differance and lost about 2kw from memory cheers Peter ps keeps the stock look

which one the red one or the white one

I know I know can't help myself its bad ,I was just gonna check the plugs and it snowballed,compression, starter motor, I had to hurry up and put it back together, was thinking of pulling the head of and porting it or maybe even a rebuild with forgies I gotta learn to leave things alone DAMN!!!!!!!

Did compression test today came up good I think 1.....165psi 2.....150psi 3.....160psi 4.....165psi 5.....160psi 6.....150psi

I still have to do the, test pulled the starter motor because it sounded sus and wasn't turning engine quick enough so will do complete test when I get it back

At a guess I'd say your pressurizing the cooling system ! do you get any hydrolic lock on start up ???

I'd go with the boost leak

Gday Andrew Yeah was thinking along those line's myself, got no 6 cylinder on the gauge b4 I pulled the starter motor on a slow crank it read 150psi by slow crank I mean like a flat battery and that was with all plug's removed so thought that was good for a start .the service book says to cold crank at about 300rpm which I was nowhere near so keen to see what the other 5 come up with Hi Alex The book does give a compression ratio but thats on new engine ,I want the get a rule of thumb on an engine thats done quite a few k's so that why i searched the threads but as I posted some said there engine was good with 80psi and others 100 or 125 ,differnt people had differing ranges all the way to 160 psi which is close to new People build a low compression engine from new as it allows the to screw more boost into them, a good example are the rb30de blocks with the rb25 or 26 heads on the there comp ratio is only about 7.25 or something like that allows massive boost.The PVC valve is not what I was talking about whether it works on high or low rev's but the vacuum hose leading to it was cable tied so tight it wasn't allowing it to recirculate engine fumes so my resaining was it was building up back pressure in the engine block and that pressure needs a release hence pressure pushing out the dip stick well thats what im hoping thanks for your imput its food for thought Cheers Peter

thats not my compression ratio thats what they varied from in the posts i searched and that was many posts just to find what was considered a healthy compression level

So I bought an R32 gtr can't help myself ,the gtst is just to dangerous on the streets way to much power even on low boost for a 2 wheel drive so its going back to stock to be sold of . Now I ve started playing with the gtr just pulled it down to check the health of the engine and did a search to try and find a healthy compression ratio for an rb26 but it ranges from 80psi to 160 psi and all say engine is fine , well damn thats alot of differance .For the most part the cars stock at one stage I'd say it had an aftermarket boost controller on it but it still has the restrictor on the factory boost control line ,oil pressure is good no water leaks so atm its looking good . Had one problem with it when I reved it to 8000rpm it blew the dipstick part way out which didn't look good but you could rev it to 6000rpm with no problems so had a bit of a check and found someone had cable tied an electrical junction to the hose that ran to the pvc valve and flatened the hose .well hoping thats the problem havn't had a chance to check that yet as pulled the starter motor out (major operation just doing that )because it sounded a bit iffie, rather fix it now than latter on the side of the road. So if anyone has any info on any of this please feel free to comment and I'm gonna try and leave it standard though I don't much like my chances already thinking turbos ,Damn my need to fiddle Cheers Peter

I'll take the stock airbox !

I too would like a pm regarding this shop

I wish

That'd be rite, hit one pole a people never let you forget it .Roy is right alot of money spent without a need I made 230rwkw with just an old style to4 so have a check through the rb20 dyno thread there's a lot of intresting info there for the power level you are wanting well I wont be able to post here for much longer as I just bought a gtr so Im putting the gtst back to stock to sell and my 300rwkw engine might be up for sale soon or i might keep it and put it in the gtr :-) Cheers Peter

Rods are stock Rb26 resized, shotpeened and hardened and balanced

I'm running 23psi boost for that power level ,the tuner has said to me more boost made very little differance so he left it there but seeing as it was a fresh engine (1600klm) then he played it safe as I told him I'd be happy if it made the 300kw mark. BHDave I played with smaller housings on earlier turbo's (cost me a small fortune) and consulted with a turbo builder who had done the mods to previous turbo's for me ,though he did originaly suggest the gt3540 he thought the gt3040 with the .82 rear housing would be enough so went on his advise.Dont get me wrong I'm real happy with the way it is atm I drive it around on low boost which is 13psi and its maken 240rwkw at that . Reason im thinking more is I put alot of work into getting boost to come on as early as possible and in building a solid engine ,it has the running gear for alot more hp the trick is getting it ,im not doing it for numbers im doing it for myself to see what I can get out of it and still make an enjoyable car to drive R31Nismoid I dont understand what you mean by pre-load ,I'll have to check the graphs when I get home for the power at 136klm's .(edit)Power at 136km/h is 280rwkw @ 5100rpm going of the dyno sheet.I have not set goal on power level since I made the 300rwkw mark except how much more is it capable of ,wasn't that long ago that 300kw was unheard of in an rb20 ,now there's quite a few pushing that mark so how much more can they go.The 250rwkw mark was on same boost level but at 4200rpm the 300rwkw at 6500rpm I like using the car at the drags although I will be doing some track days with it .It has run an 11.7 at wsid but think I can better that yet. I can build an engine and fully rebuild a car but I'm afraid undersatnding turbos atm is a little beyond me and how they flow so I'm trying to find a better solution and some more info on what is going to work best without going stupidly large turbo thats usless execpt on superhigh rev's it is still a weekend driven car, cheers Peter

Hi Guys Been advised a couple of times now that my turbo is holding me back , engine is capable of more .Now for a while ive been resisting this notion its a fairly new garrett GT3040R the spec's on this turbo are turbine -wheel-60mm w/84 trim and a .82 housing.....Compressor-wheel 82mm w/56 trim and .70 ar.Been advised to uprate it to the garrett gt3540r this turbo has been updated to the new garrett GT3582R there's not a great deal of differance between these two turbo's gt3582 specs are ,turbine-Compressor wheel 82mm w/56 trim and 0.70 ar, turbine wheel 68mm w/84 trim but here im thinking of going to the 0.63 houseing as you can see very little differance . The engine is a built rb20det ,specs are rb25 crank, rb26 rods, aries 40thou oversized forged pistons.hks cams, ported head ,hks cam gears ,1mm oversized valves and all the bolt on goodies engine is making 306rwkw at the moment and I'm pretty happy with that .At UAS dyno day it made 250rwkw at 4250rpm and full boost by 3800rpm so the power is there but more than one tuner has said get rid of the turbo u need something bigger while thats fine and dandy to say get this turbo it will do the trick thats what I was told when I bought the gt3040 well now I'm being told something differant so I thought I'd throw this up here and get some advice on what poeple think would be a better turbo for my setup even been looking along the lines og the tdo6 . cheers Peter P.S did a search but not realy a lot of info on this power level with an rb20 ,well its an rb2.1 thanks

I'LL take em for $200 pm me

Pommy Steve Reid will too so he tells me

Hmmm I await these mods with antisapation Cheers DAD