russstuff

looking to buy a rb30 crank stock or modified as long as itsin good condition, need one to keep my build going..

hey sorry i know its a little off topic.. you dont have any rb30 cranks lying about?? i need one to keep my build going.

same here my baby has been gone since mid December and i'm going stir crazy! i bought a white vp commodore to get around in and i find myself apologizing to everyone that gets in. promising i'll take them for a run when i get the skyline back

gotta go the forward facing plenum and injectors! i have a 25/30 and a garret TO4B which will do 20psi no probs but i find its too laggy for my liking, i dont see full boost till 3500-4000rpm and the 30 bottom shouldn't really be revved more than 7000rpm which doesnt give you allot of time in 1st and 2nd gear.. so a drag off the lights is a little embarrassing if its not too far to the next set of lights..

i'm not too sure what could make it happen again.. have you had the head off whilst the car has been with you? reason i ask is there is something going on (not too sure on what models) with the oil pump sending all the oil up to the head at high rpm and it cant get back down to the sump fast enough, which gives you oil starvation again. they fit oil restrictors to the oil galleries to slow it down a bit. has it got a high volume oil pump? once i saw that i had oil starvation, i had a high volume baffled sump fitted. the larger volume of oil speaks for its self and the baffles slow the surge of oil moving from one side of the sump to the other which is good for high rpm and turning! the price difference for me between getting the bearings replaced and a full rebuild was huge so i chose to get the crank done. it was $1000 labor to do the crank + parts, but would have been $3000 for the whole rebuild + loads more for parts. to stop it happening again if you just get the crank done get the sump and look into oil drain back lines from your head that connect into the sump.. ( i got them to plumb my oil catch can into the sump) not sure if getting the crank collared is applicable + high volume pump and always give it plenty of warm up time before you even start moving that way the oil isnt as thick and can flow back to the sump faster and spend a little more if you have to for a highly recommended mechanic (thats what i didnt do and they cost me my motor) oh and find out exactly what sort of warranty they'll give you before you give them the car!!! oh and how long after the build did the noise come back and had you been giving it a hard time leading up to the noise? best of luck hey, i hope for your sake its ok. (oh i got given the all clear with my existing oil pump whilst doing the build so i have a bran new N1 oil pump in the box if your interested..)

take it somewhere else for sure! have you had a look over it yourself? its probably just something simple like a disconnected sensor or plumbing the boost controller up incorrectly. what symptoms does the car have?

hey unfortunately i have just been through a very similar noise... for me it was a very slight but dull knock/rattle that only came on at 2800rpm and all the way through the rev range after that (until exhaust and other noise drowned it out) it turned out to be the big end bearings. this problem was caused by oil starvation (having a high volume oil pump and standard sump) if the noise its still only this slight there is still a chance you can just pull the crank out to get machined and replace the bearings but you must get the bearing crush checked when its refit to make sure the rods havent become a slightly oval shape due to the hammering noise that you can hear as the rod goes up and down. oh and take it to as many places as you can for quotes as you'll find half the mechanics will just tell you your up for a full rebuild even when your not.. hope this helps, good luck with it it sounds like it'll be a fun ride when its running right

hey thanks for the interest and help. i'm no longer looking for an engine. Croyden Race Development have the job now and i have given the go ahead, lets see what they come up with for what price...

hey thanks for the heads up, but yeah your right, i'm looking to go full forged.. seems like a real good price for the gear you have! seems like a similar setup to what i had and i made 350rwkw. one of the crap parts in my sale was i was told i had forged pistons, when i took it to get its first tune after i bought it i told the tuners what work the engine had done so they tuned accordingly. turns out it didnt have forged pistons.. 18-20psi puts a bit too much heat into standard pistons... but is was such a pleasure to drive even off boost! well as they say.. back to the old drawing board. good luck with the sale!

lol! i have been so caught up with forums and searching online for an engine i didnt even think to call! its the simple things sometimes.....

anyone know anyone in aus that supplies them? i've e-mailed lewis engines 2 times as it looks as though they have an engine that would suit but have had no replies from them.. anyone know if they are worth trying to pursue?

i wish it was that easy hey, but with the setup the car has if i go standard i dont think it'll work so well, but thanx for the offer

Hello as the topic title suggests i am looking for a RB25/30 to replace the one i had.. i'm interested in a new crate motor or even a 2nd hand one. i my last one was making 350rwkw. i'm hoping not to get any less than this from whatever i buy this time... thanx for your time.

the climate control also has an ambient air temp sensor that works together with the light sensor and an internal temp sensor. it calculates all these things and then sets how oftern to cycle the compressor motor on and off. like for example on a hot sunny day your a.c. come on full blast and does what it needs to at full power but when its at night it doesn't come on as intense. i cant remember exactly but from my shagged memory its something like that

spose its true what you say mad082 but the original noise was so faint that half the mechanics i went to said the whole engine had to get pulled down to find the noise. i was a mechanic, so as soon as i heard the noise i knew what it was, honestly it was so faint you could only just hear it and only above 2800rpm on a light throttle. after removing the crank it was sent away, machined crack tested and the mechanics told me they plastiguage'd it on installation to check bearing crush and said it was fine. the problem this time is not that the big ends went again (although the noise is what made me take the car back) its the fact that something has been pushing the crank forward with so much force that the thrust bearing and face's wore so badly the metal went through the engine which i expect is what chopped out the replacement bearings...

you sure its not working because of something simple?? any newer car these days requires a radio code to be entered whenever the power supply is disconnected...