ST240

I already posted this in the whore thread, but I'm in a rush, and it appears that doesn't get much traffic. My apologies. Can someone please do me a kindness and post the part numbers for King Bearings RB30 main and big end STD spec bearings. ACL is out until the end of summer. Jeez. I for the life of me cannot seem to nail them down. Kings webpage is pretty convoluted . Thanks in advance. Edit: I found these if someone can confirm, that would be great: Big Ends: CR6676SI Mains: MB7008AM These also appear to be standard performance, if anyone has a line on the race series let me know.

Can someone please do me a kindness and post the part numbers for King Bearings RB30 main and big end STD spec bearings. ACL is out until the end of summer. Jeez. I for the life of me cannot seem to nail them down. Kings webpage is pretty convoluted . Thanks in advance.

This is my exact build. Had a junker manifold and a .59 (!!!) housing and dynoed at 370 whp run in tune. Didn't get to dyno it after I added the true divided twin gate 6boost. Very responsive on my run in tune. If you tune it well you will be very happy. I have a feeling however, that the exhaust wheel will become the limiting factor. It is just too small. It seems better results may be had with the 6266. This is my opinion.

I have the rear feed blocked and the front restricted down to 1.5 mm. No head drain though... I didn't even have the restrictors before I swapped heads. Yes I did build it myself. And I did check the clearances. They all within, barely, but still in spec. I've built this engine before and I raced it two seasons with the RB25DE head without an issue. I didnt change anything on the bottom end and I it somehow died right after I put the RB26 head and new manifold on it. The reason I think it's starvation is almost all the big ends were cooked to varying degrees, and the mains were starting to go too. But maybe it isn't starvation. Someone on another forum is suggesting if the crank isn't straight it can do this. Surely it would have to be knocking quite badly to wreck the bearings this fast?? I do have one of those special bosch sensors that I can listen with, but I havent recently. I'm only running 16* at 8.3:1. I maybe have driven 100 km on it, and had only a handful of hard single gear pulls.

Ok so I rebuilt this thing. And the exact same timeframe, its f**king knocking again. What the hell could be starving my bottom end of oil so consistantly? Am I missing something!? I've only driven it hard a few times and I've kept the revs down. Theres also 6L in the sump. What the hell could be causing this???

Pulled it apart tonight. I immediately knew what happened when the bearings were clamped on the journals. Nothing a ballpeen can't straighten out. Hey guys, it's ok if my bearing shells look like bacon, right? At least the journals look ok. Yep. She starved of oil . I think I remember the corner that did it in actually, a sharp U-turn at about 7k. Lucky it was on the street and not a track where I may not have noticed it. I also forgot to overfill the sump. f**k! Damn RBs and their starvation issues. A few more hard pulls and it might have been a different story. This is how THREE of the six big ends looked lol. But at least the journals look half decent and can be reground. But in the spirit of this build I may even gamble and just polish them up, new shells, and slapper back together. Experienced guys, what do you think?

It was fresh oil this season. Good stuff too. It's been started many times and driven around a lot with a few small pulls here and there so...

The oil light came on idling at a red light the other night after some hard pulls, however my pressure gauge did not show a loss in pressure when the light was on (what causes the oil light to come on? Is it strictly a pressure loss? I later tinkered with the plug and it may or may not have been loose). I was a few blocks away from the house and I noticed this noise. The sound in the video only shows up at around 2500 RPM briefly. It also doesn't seem to really be there when the engine is cold. Tomorrow I will cut apart the oil filter to see if I can find bearing flakes. I'm really scratching my head as to what that noise could be. Almost sounds too rapid to be a big end bearing. But the fact that it's not there when it's cold is a little unsettling. I've also read on lots of RB forums guys think the sound is coming from the head, which this one does, and it ends up being a big end bearing. Any ideas? Funny how I bagged the living shit out of this engine all summer last year and the first few hard pulls this year she gives me problems.

Interesting result... Were both at the same rpm?

I'm switching from the 25DE head to the 26 head this winter mainly because I'm sick of the crossover pipe cluttering up my engine bay, and a custom plenum is $$$ compared to a 26 head. Surely the 26 head doesn't UNDERPERFORM vs the 25DE head in any regard does it? The only place I could think of there a remote possibility would be low and mid range TQ... Is there?

Then it would behoove one to run a cheap simple mod like an BAT (boosted air temperature) sensor in the intake.

I had also thought about the efficiency thing too but I neglected to mention it. Good post .

Why does big boost have such a bad stigma? Its my understanding that it's not like the "boost" is anything scary in and of itself. Its combustion pressures that blow your engine up, not "boost". Some people think that because person A is running more boost with a turbo than person B with another turbo, yet theyre making the same power on the same engine, that person A more likely to scatter their engine, which is false, no? The byproduct of high boost is more air, and thus fuel, in the engine, plain and simple. Am I wrong with this logic?

Here's my RB30 6262 dyno I just posted up! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/382792-precision-6262-rb30-dyno/

RB30 bottom end ARP head studs ARP rod bolts Stock rb25 headgasket R32 RB25DE head Precision 6262 .58 T4 undivided Deatschwerks 740cc Z32 MAF LS2/truck coilpacks Same side entry vertical flow intercooler This thing is running PIG rich; when I got in there it wouldnt even register on the sniffer (<10:1). I should have tuned that out beforehand. I pulled some fuel and it went from 350 to 370 HP and it still didnt even register on the sniffer. With more fuel pull/timing add 400 rwhp is certainly possible. Not bad for the JB 6262. I'm impressed. The only downside is the .58 rear is choking it above 5800. Operator let off at 6500. Original project here: http://forums.780tuners.com/showthread.php?118785-My-RB30-240sx-project

I've alread established that my turbo setup isn't ideal, but I decided to dyno it on a whim (at exactly 12pm today) before the snow flies. HP Solutions got me in for 3:30pm. Awesome. RB30 stock bottom end R32 RB25DE head Precision 6262 .58 T4 Nistune'd by myself This thing is running PIG rich; when I got in there it wouldnt even register on the sniffer (<10:1). I should have tuned that out beforehand. I pulled some fuel and it went from 350 to 370 HP and it still didnt even register on the sniffer. With more fuel pull/timing add 400 rwhp is certainly possible. Not bad for the JB 6262. I'm impressed. The only downside is the .58 rear is choking it above 5800. Operator let off at 6500.

I saw that. How much did the setup cost? Hows that 3800 stall on the street?

Back on topic. I'm really trying to decide what route to take. It seems it will cost me at least 3k (and prolly a few years off my life lol) to properly adapt a c4 to the back of my RB. The pluses are I live in Canada and the parts for these units are a dime a dozen and if I didn't like the auto I could at least sell the build tranny to recoup some cost. If I go R33 auto, It can be had for dirt cheap, but parts and setup will be a royal pain. I still have not received any concrete pricing or what is needed to make an R33 auto drag-ready.If I want to get rid it, it might be hard to sell over here.

Please, if you dont like autos, we dont need to hear about it. Keep your opinion out of this discussion.

Herein lies the problem. I called up a local tranny shop to find out which older domestics dont use a computer similar to the R33 autos but that still has O/D for daily driving, turns out there arent that many. My choices would be Ford AOD or Chevy 700R4. Upon researching them, I discovered that neither has a removable bellhousing, which leaves them out (I'm assuming the easiest way to do this is build a bellhousing adapter and use an R33 bellhousing, which I have in my possession). I'm now leaning towards a ford C4 like so many others have done. Why not R33 auto? I'd love to, but I can't find any solid info on shift kits, manual valve bodies, trans brakes, control needed, etc. It needs to be able to stand up to 300 rwkw hard launches too. Thanks for the link .

I cant believe the lack of info on this subject; compared with the loads of other great info you auzzies have . I've been scouring the internet for the last 3 hours and I haven't come up with much. It's almost worth me going custom and adapting a bullet proof Chevy auto. This way I know it will work how I want it to. I've emailed MV Automatics. I hope to get a response out of them.

Can a guy manualize an R33 auto gearbox and use it without the control unit?

I was just about to create a thread similar to this. The reason I want to do it is for drag racing. What exactly do you need "auto control" for? The transmission simply cannot run as a standalone unit similar to old USDM autos? Like it wouldn't shift at all or what? If I do need "auto control" I guess my goose is cooked because I'm running an RB20 manual ECU with nistune.

What rear housing you running on it?

I dont have an ideal setup, so take this post with a grain of salt, but I've got a 6262 journal bearing with a .58 T4 rear on my RB30. Boost doesnt come on until ~3600. And then power is dropping off around 5500 due to the rear end. With a rear end that small, I was expecting something a whole lot more responsive. I'm not even going to bother with a different turbine housing, I'm ditching it in favour of a GT35R or GT30R.