ST240

Thanks guys I'll try the thing with the oil. The thing is it doesnt make that sound when free revving with no load. Thats the strange part. And it really doesn't seem like its at engine RPM which is why I'm thinking valvetrain... FML.

Here's a video of the sound: Edit: The sound in this one is even better:

Hey guys. I'm hearing a strange sound that i at first thought was spark knock due to a poor tune or even rod knock or worse, but I'm leaning towards a bad lifter due to the high consistency/repeatablity of the sound (and not to mention I've added a ton of fuel and killed timing to make sure). These are the details of the sound: -Sounds like a rapping similar to spark knock -Only occurs under medium/high load acceleration AND -Only occurs above 3k rpm OR around atmospheric on the boost gauge -Does not occur under very light acceleration up to redline -Does not occur when revving in neutral -Does not seem to be heard at engine RPM -Just started occuring within the last 50 km on a new RB25/30 build I had to spin the cams around several times when the engine was dry to put the timing belt on. Is it possible there's air in the lifters now? Is there anything I can try before i proceed to pull the damn thing apart? Any other ideas? Thanks.

Hm. Sounds similar to the E30 mounts i used when I did my RB20 swap into my s13.

Can you do me a favor and measure how thick they are? I'm kinda confused guys... Slotting alone wont do anything to where the engine sits will it? You have to use other mounts AND slot for it to sit lower, no?

Threw the belt off when you had the engine running?! Or just spinning by hand? I made that with my machinist like i said. But no, I'm guessing that its not perfectly level. If i spin it over and over again will it come off? Or do i have to find out the hard way .

Sorry for the hi-jack OP. Does the .63 run outta puff in the upper end? How high are you revving? I would have thought .63 would be too small for a 3.0L

Theres the spacer. I'd heard of people talking about it but never saw a pic. Now we have one. A guy will need a custom stud OR you can get away with a stocker if you put a little shim in the hole for it to bottom out on higher thus having less thread engagement. otherwise you won't even stand a chance at getting the nut on the stud with the pulley there. Hope this helps someone! Tags: tensioner stud location idler uneven

Damn man the markings on your piston look identical to the ones on one of my pistons in my rb30 longblock (of which im reusing all components lol). Looks like foreign material for sure. Best of luck to you.

OP sorry to hijack your thread but, is there anywhere where i can buy this ACL rebuild kit you speak of online? I live in Canada so these kits are extremely hard to come by.

Wow what the deuce?! Can anyone confirm or deny this? Everywhere I've read people are talking about valve float with the R32 RB25DE head. Certainly it can't have the same springs as the RB26DETT?

I'm getting ready to drill/tap mine right away here. Should a guy use the exact dimensions in the guide ie. 17.7 mm from the deck and 33 mm to the right of that small hole looking at the front of the block?

Yeah ive heard of guys having issues with valve float so i have a set of gtr valve springs on the way. $100 bucks is cheap insurance. With regards to the cams yeah i saw a pic on here somewhere you can definately see the 25DE cams have more overlap. Maybe ill fit the 20DET cams then . The flip side is ive seen good results on the 25DE cams too. Can anyone else comment? (not to hijack your thread )

Thats a budget build? o_O My previous engine was RB20DET as well. I was considering fitting the RB20DET cams in my RB25DE head... What differences in performance would one see by doing this?

Lol . I was just going to do a build on stock RB30E internals for a "low" ( ) power application for this summer then go forged/full build next summer. You don't think I should reuse anything?! That's a bit extreme no?

I'd rather not weld anything at this point; Id rather machine a keyway on the other side. I think welding is last resort. I made a typo. Its 0.038 mm no? Lol anyone else got an estimate? And to think we're trying to build engines here . Futher to this damage, It looks like something got in one of the cylinders at one point: But i think i can reuse that piston. What do you guys think? There was some slight scoring (you can just barely feel it with your nail) in the bore too upon closer inspection which I'm hoping can improved by honing. I don't know what amount of scoring is acceptable before you need a rebore. Can anyone comment?

I can confirm that this is with at least the RB30E as i just pulled my oil pump off there. Jeez its got a small contact area! Dirtgarage are you saying its superior to run the RB30E pump over an extended collar/rb20/25 oil pump?

Ok so with everything apart, here are some pics. These pics were the worst i saw. Some were worn like this, some weren't: Rod Another rod. Center bearing. Seems like its getting some thrust wear. In any of the above pics, you can't actually feel the "wear" with your finger nail, you can just see it. Last but not least, i measured runout. I removed all the bearings except the outter two which made sense to me, otherwise the other bearings might interfere, effectively lifting the crank up when it is rotated, showing less runout than there actually is. It was only out about 1.5 thou, which is 3.8 mm. Happy days! So my big question to you experts is: replace the bearings, or not? I'm no expert so I'm not sure to what degree the bearings are worn. All I know is they don't look super prestine haha. I guess I might as well while she's apart. Futhermore, it looks like quite the rigamarole to mic out all the bearings so i might as well do that with new ones.

Good to hear guys. Thanks so much for the replies! Glad im not the only one; and that the damage isnt the end of the world . I have the pistons out, working on the girdle right now. The rod bearings look slightly worn, but maybe its normal. I borrowed some telescopic gauges, a micrometer and a dial gauge from my machinist to measure it all up. I'll post some pics up and see what you guys think.

I'm going to see if the crank is damaged otherwise. If not I am going to attempt to mill a keyway 180 degress from that set and i should be away. PS: DiRTgarage can you please email me at andrem85 @ telus dot net and we can discuss futher. I can pm until i have a post count of 10 and i dont feel like spamming this great board up you folks have just so i can pm you back .

. anyone have a crank?

EDIT: I must be clear; this is a shortblock that i purchased here in canada. I have no ideas about it previous running condition or lack thereof. The guy who i bought it from said it had excellent compression, thats all. So i pull the harmonic balancer and goto pull the timing pulley and i notice its kind of loose. I finally jiggle it off and i see this: Any idea what the hell happened? Looks quite severe. You dont just mash through a keyway like that easily... There obviously had to be a difference in torque on the crank between the rotating assembly and the timing belt for something like that to happen. I dont think id trust the timing gear again... Whats left of the pillaged key. I think i can save the crank by milling the keyway straight through and making custom keys. There was no evidence of this at all when the harmonic balancer was on. Everything seemed tight and the bottom end spun nicely by hand. Any ideas anyone? Is the crank salvageable?