t5iv

Filters are overrated. What are we filtering?

I've been on rant mode with a few comments in this section. All them feels... Yeah. All good. Makes sense. Pretty much what i have.

Mine has an external transcooler? Looks factory as well.

Sarp

Not much difference except a grand in price... Up to you though. Good luck.

I have a GT8. Nice car. Gearbox is a pile of shit. I used to have a 400+hp S13 many moons ago. That was fast. The torque that this box puts out makes it fun to get around roundabouts or overtake etc and the seamless transmission makes it to feel fast. The gearbox is shit. In any form of enthusiastic driving - it is shit. I've had it around the track and in really spirited drives and FFS that box is unreliable. After about 5 min, the box just gets slow and doesn't shift anywhere near as quickly. Also, stop talking a big game. The older guys who've been around the traps for ages will see and call your BS and refuse to help.

I'm running 19s. Specs were posted up there somewhere. Got some rubbing on the front and spacers should fix that. Need to work out if wheel studs are going to be long enough or need to go extended. Keep your rolling diameter within 3% and you will be fine. Mine are 245/35/19 and 265/30/19. Runs fine.

That's strange. I know guys with 200-300kw who haven't had issues. Could be a number of other things. Either way, they aren't made any more so meh. Lol. Thanks!

Yeah. It's probably best to buy the kit and do them all. If not, buy the kit and just do the bushes that you want. It works well out significantly cheaper.

Coil pack harness, CAS, flooding something, gaskets given way - could be anything. Tried checking codes?

Sean in Brisbane does them for $150-200 IIRC. Great quality workmanship.

Should be Boz. He's still Treasurer. Mel's looking after applications etc.

They've had Evos, Supras etc at Happy Laps. F**k me some of those evos are quick - even on the straights!! Send Cadmoon details if you know the guys there

This. Mouse, Stalin, W**ker... Any of those options depending on my mood But yeah, you can trust dealing with him because he;s the current club President and all SAU Presidents are top blokes

You can't change the rolling diameter too much. So, larger rim diameter, smaller tyre profile.If you want to reduce fender clearance, lowering is the way to go. If anyone is interested, the way to calculate rim diameter is: rim size x 25.4 to get size in mm 18" - 457.2mm 19" - 482.6mm Tyre profile for the amount of tyre on either side of the wheel is wheel with multiplied by aspect ratio 265/40 ie 265 x 0.4 = 106mm So that means that you have 106mm of sidewall on each side of the wheel. Multiply this by 2 (for both sides of the wheel) and add to the rim diameter. If your rolling diameter is out by more than a couple of % (think 3% IIRC) your speedo will be out and VDC will lose the plot. Does that help? To your second part JT, I share this sentiment

Tomei also demonstrated a whopping 80whp increase with a tune using their turbos on a SR20. Small print mentioned that it was a stroked motor with other bits and peices. I can prove that my stock V35 produces 260rwkw. A mates stock Rodeo produced 365rwkw on the dyno. So many factors go into a tune and to say that an intake on a natro boosts power by 15rwhp or ~10% is not only misleading, it's absurd. Any of the guys who've built/worked on/ played with these motors would be able to tell you that. Guys like Scotty in Vic, Matt up in QLD etc.

Better off getting new bushings from Whiteline (or someone who supplies Whiteline). You can buy just the bushings without sway bar etc. Take a look on the site. I recently purchased a full bush kit from there. Have done the front so far - remarkable difference on a 12 year old car. Rears are to be done when I have time.

Don't believe that there has been any communication with SAU QLD re: this. Surely the guys can organise it though. Will need time.

Sprints are great because the only person you're going up against is yourself. You run around at a decent pace, come back, see what your times were like and then go out again - that's basically it. Gives you the opportunity to identify where to brake, where and when to open it up etc. If you know Phil Sutty with the Black R35, he loves these things and can give you more insight. The guys have a good day out and enjoy their day. You will need a helmet, long sleeve shirt and pants etc.

You aren't going find a lot of people posting times here. Go through that list and see what people are making. Most of the guys in Vs don't track their cars.

These are similar specs to mine and they fit well. Slight roll on the rear and all good. Just rolled that lip, didn't need to pump them or anything. And Jon, I can't believe that these are for sale!!!! Such good wheels and from an owner who looks after them meticulously.

Seriously?! We've got 40mm TOTAL track increase. Thing is, factory is 215 and I'm running 265s on the rear. Is it based on Rim diameter there or rolling diameter? I know that in sydney and here it's on rolling diameter so you could go from a 16 to a 20 and be legal if you were running rubber bands for tyres - technically. I feel sorry for you guys and Regency

OK. So many misnomers here - 1) Running 245s all round on different width wheels isn't actually a square set up. Reason is that there is more stretch when the tyre is put on a wider wheel. When GT-R owners say square, they mean 9,9.5,10 inch wheels all around. 2) KU31s are a perfectly good tyre for the power that these cars produce. Used them for a year on everything from street to track to runs with a bit of pace on very twisty private roads... The reason that club members preferred the KU31 over KU36 was they provide marginally less grip but they get heap into them very quickly. 3) You can fit some seriously wide wheels on these cars - especially coupes. FYI, I'm running 19x9 (f) 245/40/19 and 19x9.5 ® 265/40/19. Fills guards well. Needed a touch of rolling on the rear. 4) All modern Nissans run 5x114.3 PCD - c'mon! Unless it's a 6 stud navara or a 4 stud Pulsar. Even 4 stud Nissans are 4x114.3 5) Run the same rim diameter all around. It looks stupid otherwise. 6) Good tyre brands - Nitto, Michellin, Pirelli, Kuhmo, Hankook. Hankook RS-3s are the rage at present with guys who drive their cars hard. 595 RSRs have mixed reviews. I know a lot of guys who ran them and when we had a track day in the rain it was worse than rollerskates on marbles. Then again, Noel runs them on the Chair and he loves them. Don't think the chair sees the wet though. 7) http://www.willtheyfit.com/ Good site. Gives you a good visual idea as to what works. 8) Don't lower your car to the point where the rails are dragging and the wheels are more horizontal than vertical. This is counter-intuitive to any semblance of common sense. 9) Lightweight forged, good brand name wheels are worth their weight. Even if it isn't brand name, look for build quality reviews etc. 10) If you're in QLD, Dan at Bosman Tyres is good and offers a great range. Good bloke as well. Had a track evo so knows how to dial in the right settings for best performance. Ask one of the current serving Execs for more. Andrew, #Nightcrawler, runs a pretty neat set up. think they're 19s as well.

Autos have the foot brake to allow more space in the centre console and a more smooth surround. Can't have pedal park brake on a manual so that's why they have handbrakes. Flecks of rust spots on your rotors are nothing to be worried about. Drive normally and it will wear away.