andynogo

So I have a set of r34gtt front calipers, discs and front brake lines to fit to my M35 (NM35 2.5T AWD ARX). I've read so much conflicting information now- bottom line is- will the brakes fit easily and can I use my standard 18" ARX mags? I've heard things like needing 15mm spacers, trim the backing plate, caliper fouls on hub/suspension etc... TIA!

Deleted. Turns out my new ebay key isn't putting out the correct frequency.

That's some nice work there! Fancy making another dump pipe? I'm about to do a bit of work on mine and was going to buy one of Scottys but would prefer to buy in Perth if i can...

Well fancy that. Local Natrad had one- $285 and it's mine. Looks like I'll be having a fun start to 2015 tomorrow!

Thanks Josh- that's what I did last night. The first one that comes up says : "PIN BOTTOM FAN MOUNTS PLEASE CHECK FOR RECTANGLE MOUNTS PLEASE CHECK ITEM NUMBER:191157820160" which is why I thought I'd ask...

The top tank on my 01 M35 2.5T went today so I will start the hunt for a new rad here in Perth today (yeah, wish me luck!). I know that the Koyo v35 skyline ones fit but apparently they come in two versions- pin mount for the fan shroud or rectangular hole mount. Any idea which one we have? Ta

When I replaced the bose in my arx I had to buy an ac controller for a v/g35 from the usa as the bose system has everything built in to one big circuit board. I also bought adaptor boxes to get a new head unit to work with the Bose amps and speakers and also a converter box to get the steering wheel controls to work with the new stereo. I modified the facia by cutting out the bose panel so I had a double din sized hole and installed the new stereo with a storage bin below it.

Yes there is. I had mine translated to engrish when I bought it so I just follow the prompts... I'm sure someone will chime in with the buttons. Wife has the car this week so I won't see it!

Hi Chad, I might need the front passenger hub and rear left door window motor and central locking actuator/motor. Got any of those? Cheers Andy

Maybe the little resistor had popped out and they pushed it back in? I'm sooo cynical, hey?

I had this problem on my factory cruise car and it disappeared when I cleaned the grille and front of the radar sensor. The only fault it has now is not going above 110 but apparently that's not a fault....

If it's a Bose stereo there's plenty of guides on g35driver.com. Look for wrathernaut's double din guide. If you have a standard single din stereo then you may have to crack out a multimeter if you don't want to send it to a car stereo shop.

What do you need to do- someone may be able to assist with a specific problem?

Just go to one of the compliers/ Nissan delaership and ask if there's a way they can correct the k's on the dash..........? You can buy a scanner but they're a bit exxy at $7K+

Thanks for that Jethro. I'm guessing my car will have all the bolts as it came here with 100,000 on the clock- unlike the 57,000 that most of them have (they must have a reflashing tool with the same k's on it over there!). On that, are the k's determined by the dash- so now you have the k's from the nismo dash rather than your car? Oh, and someone needs to cut their nails, talon-boy

Hmmm, let me see. $320 or thereabouts for a transgo kit delivered from the US- takes about a week to WA. Or $650 for a transgo kit delivered from over east- takes about a week and a half usually.... So, save myself over $300 and get it quicker? Decisions decisions.... Story of our lives. When I converted my arx to a normal stereo after the bose stuffed up, I needed a standalone AC controller board. $550ish from Nissan here- and they'd have to order it in. OR less than $200 delivered from a dealer in the US and it arrived within a week. Unfortunately companies set their prices per country according to sales volume- we simply don't have the volume here to compete price-wise with internet sales from the US.

Just another update.... still no airbag light. Must be just about a record for this car! Sorry to interrupt- you boys can get back to your whacking.....

Thanks Leon, helpful as always!

I haven't been brave enough yet to even consider looking at my turbo. Is it a pita job to get at the front banjo- I've had this job on my list for a while but been concentrating on non-messy issues such as the electrics/stereo stuff!

I can confirm that with the factory TV set at "aux" to get the asuka/aftermarket picture on the screen, the factory antenna amps are NOT powered. I took power from the +12V ign supply for my asuka and fed it into the amps- sorted. The amps are powered by a little brown plug that comes off the antenna leads down near the TV units. I snipped and spliced the new power supply in- onto both wires. Make sure the snipped unused wires are insulated as they may have 12V on them at times.

Umm, I know I'm a bit Jonny-come-lately, but, which wire is it that people are cutting/switching? Sounds like something I need to do.

I've since learnt that the factory antenna amps may not be powered up when setting the factory system to "VCR" to get the asuka signal. I'll be looking into this. Having said that, the reception in my car is pretty decent most of the time. If this is the case, it should be easy enough to hook the factory amps up to an ignition switched 12V. Might be a good idea to run a power cable down to the back of the car from the fuse box if you're worried about overloading the circuit- quite a few people have done this with theirs. I didn't bother and haven't had an issue...but you never know...

I for one love my factory cruise around town- the radar function works well as long as you set the distance to minimum, otherwise you constantly get cars cutting in and the cruise puts the brakes on to try to maintain the gap. Impatient frickin tossers in Perth! But, and this is a big but, the 110 top speed is a pita. Real terms it's 103-104, and on the country runs it's a bit frustrating. I've thought about various options like modifying the speed signal but it's just too complicated and integrated into the running of the car. I bought a cheapo (by this car's standards!) throttle modifier which changes the throttle response, but only for the cruise function it has, which of course doesn't work on my car. Apparently it will work on M35's without the factory cruise. Typical. Leon- does the new unit you've got work in a factory cruise equipped car? I may be interested if it does...

I've had a couple of electrical issues with my M35 in the last year or so. The airbag light keeps on coming on but with no error code (checked both via the car and handheld scan tool). The stereo is a bose integrated 6 disc stacker and was doing the common power on and off at random trick. When it decided to eat the cd's and stop working, I took action and ripped it out, replacing it with a Jensen DVD headunit (and that's another story in itself- using the bose amps and speakers, which I might post up for info if I feel strong enough) Since then, not a single airbag light error coming up. I know that the seat rams certainly can pose a problem and I was almost resigned to sorting them, but the problem hasn't come up in two weeks now and normally the light was back on within 24hrs of being reset. I'm still not convinced that it's completely fixed but it cetainly may have been some form of electrical spike or similar from the faulty bose that was getting back to the airbag system and causing the light to come on. Fingers crossed! Just thought I'd post up in case someone else was having similar problems.

Sorry I should have been clearer. That number is the key profile- give it to Nissan when you order a key and they will cut it to the new spec instead of a key cutter copying an old worn profile off your existing key.