R31Nismoid

Even with 3200cc those turbos aren't all in till 5000rpm? Good golly they are such rubbish. Anyway, as others have said - try out fresh stock coil packs first. If problem persists, go after market if replacing at your power level. Might as well HKS DLI was good 10 years ago, but the world has come a long way and there are better/cheaper offerings out now.

^ Agreed. First up give the car a full service. So change ALL oils/fluids from motor to diff. Then do suspension/brakes/tyres and get a basic tune at some point, big more boost/power and have fun. Then save up and do a RB25 motor/gearbox swap later on when funding allows (7k conversion minimum as you would change the turbo at the same time)

What are you doing with the car? Circuit, street (runs or hills) or drag? How much power? Either way, change it now. If it's anything that is going to involve RPM launches - so drag, and over 300rwkw/400rwhp... Then you absolutely MUST change it now. If you've spend big $$$ on a after market sump, you do NOT want the stock front diff blowing as it will take out some/all of the front sump if it fails badly enough which is anyone's gess. It happened to me and a few others over the years, so by spending now and doing it right, you'll thank yourself. Its not "so much" needed for circuit but honestly, the improvements you get from doing it are IMO, one of the best value vs gain mods EVER. I've said it before that if I had my time in a GTR again I would do the following - Small turbos/basic 300rwkw setup. - Diffs, both - Transfer Case Rather than rebuilding motor and doing for 550hp+ as the driving experience/speed of the car is just so greatly improved it's outta this world levels of difference. I would say Nismo for Drag and Quaife for circuit seems to be the consenses. That said I used my Nismo to blistering effect in 80-120km/h motorkhana based stuff, suited my driving style.

Well, you are a troll, Nathan - is that even your real name? SAU is hardly the place for an inexperienced n00b troll, that much is certain. I'd let you change your email from: [email protected] to something else so we could have some fun, but well, you're banned so you can't. So Nathan Carmelo, again who even knows if that is correct, you are the one that is going piss off and go be a pest somewhere else.

Yeah have used state roads for basic inspection, was good with measuring things like paint thickness and other basic observations and you can even talk to the inspector via phone For more detail though, which you really want with a R32 GTR being old and potentially in need of a fair bit of TLC mechanically, head to Racepace - they will go over it, have done it for me before and much more detailed in the mechanical side.

Race cars are ALWAYS bad examples of what to do on a street car when driveability comes into question

Give these places a call: Fulcrum MCA Supashock All of them are big shops and should be capable of doing it. And, while doing one - do them all or at least the sister side to the blown one. Otherwise they'll not be even, and likely if one is gone another isn't far behind making it $$$$ in freight and assache.

+1 to this, John has it. Also if plumbing gate back in, make sure you do it as far down as possible, less disruption to gas flow (etc etc)

So it's a 8MR? I'm surprised it's held together as long as it has at that power level. It's definately a weak point once you move over from the stock turbo. It's why I'm gonna keep stock turbo in my 8MR, will be track day reliable (enough). Anyway if you wanna keep the 6 speed, NEAT Gearboxes do a upgraded 6-speed box basically fixing the major flaws the 6 speed has, it's around 5k. So give them a call. Or you could just put a 5 speed in and keep the 6 speed in the garage for when needed, that'd be a cheaper option

IMO track = oil cooler by default mate. For $800 or so, it's cheap insurance and will let you run without any issues (and to the limit of tyres/brakes) all day long.

JASMA isn't a brand name, it's just a noise certification. Problem is Jap systems that are like 3.5" and JASMA, usually have a nasty 2.5" restrictor (midway through) or similar step-down somewhere along the line totally negating the point of going bigger in a Jap branded/quiet exhaust. I've never had a problem sea freight using Import Monster for 8 years or so now. When you pack and unpack your own container, you can ensure it's not stuffed.

This is what I would do. Cost you maybe $200-$300ea for mufflers x2 of solid quality, be super quiet because of it as well. It'll end up costing around $$120-$1500 depending on CAT needed or not.

So I rebuilt my gaming box and decided to start again going idiot maxed early. Keeping lvl 1 INT the whole time. I'm lvl 11 already after only a few hours of playing. Makes suuuuch a difference to levelling speed. I'm also putting early points into STR and added weight so I don't have to keep running back to Sanctuary after every mission to unload weapons and shit. Making the game far more enjoyable for me and moving at a much faster pace. Only issue is lock picking/hacking terminals, kinda stuffed on occasions there as I've put little points into PER and zero into INT for now - more so on terminals it's a bit of a PIA and most of the safes are just basic loot. Once I hit ~lvl 20 I'll pile points into INT given you cant get lvl 3 hacker till lvl 21 anyway (and then do science/scrapper same time). Then go back and sort all the important stuff out that I couldn't, not that there is much by that point if I keep ramping up the levels as fast as I am now

Yeah need oil cooler for turbo car no matter whether it's hot or cold TBH. So much heat to dissipate. Hell my N/A HSV overheats in 90 seconds without an oil cooler.

Yeah that rule went out as of 2014 IIRC. Thank god too, very dumb as stated.

Sooooo much this. When the Walbro's came out (the 260lph ones) everyone was jumping up and down about how good they were vs the Bosch (and cheaper). Yet once you were running ~16psi+ on a RB you suddenly ran out of fuel because the 260lph flow rate was calculated at 35psi or similar. Where the Bosch was rated at something like 70psi for it's flow. The 260s were only good for low boost/N/A applications as a result (for the most part).

Ah see I've got an on-board amp on my PC sound card, so not playing through a mobile phone or through the standard PC jack.

Also does anyone have something for renaming/organising MKVs like the below? I have many MKV but naming is very problematic.

Have been using for 3 years. We have Google Business account for the apps, extra storage etc. Tis flawless. Edit a file one place, available 5 seconds later elsew.here on any machine (long as it's not 50gig lol)

Plenty of threads on this in this very section... One of them are on this very page.

Indeed. If you get something quite imbalanced even at 60km/h it could be such an epic prick to drive... Better to just spend the $80

Sorry... Amp. lol. Stupid fingers. Yeah I'm certainly not going to make my own, although I probably could, always easier to let someone else who does it for a living do stuff like that. I will have a look-see.

Which app do you have? Also copper cable - did you rewire the headphones you mean?

I have $3,500 worth of custom valved Tein's (done by MCA) in there (wanna buy my old Jap KTS damper adj gear i took out? lol). Gonna put the RE003s through their paces if I can. Only issue is I do not have oil temp gauge, has oil cooler - so gonna have to stick to 2 fliers just to be safe.

LOL