R31Nismoid

They always come up in bulk.. Nothing for 2-3 months and then BAM - half a dozen selling all at once. Even talk to someone like Import Monster - where front cuts are coming in, there are rear ends that usually don't get brought in, so they can be sourced

Yep a VSpec is not actually as good as the base model GT-R if you intend of changing diffs etc. It'll cost you a pile of time/effort/money... Most of us have found this out the hard way lol. So don't worry about that little decal on the rear end, it's far more headache than it's worth!

Shaft lengths are different too IIRC, ideally you still want a R33 Non VSpec rear, for what you are doing

Indeed, looking on my phone I hadn't noticed that... Well spotted.

Yeah I can, you're much closer to the edge of knock/detonation - that point is irrefutable - due to what I outlined. Sometimes it's not just a case of pulling timing (loads of factors involved).

Yeah without a doubt. You are adding more heat at 25psi on small turbo than 15psi at big one, either way. There is definitely a bit to consider here, and its a good topic, that's for sure. Money does tend to get you gains in this space (where other times it won't). The Blitz has always done well.

Higher boost will: 1. Increasing boost will increase the cylinder pressure (how can it not?) 2. Increase the intake temp 3. Lead to higher chance of knock/detonation, far more prominent with 98 Octane PULP vs 105 Octane United E85 4. And potentially, show more in efficiencies in the intercooler system In relation to point 4, think about wind resistance, or rather the power to over come it, is velocity^3 (If my memory is correct) - so it's not linear, and as such I would not expect an intercooler pressure drop to be the same from say 15psi to 25psi if the core itself is reaching it's limitations.

Running 25psi on PULP? That just be asking for trouble IMO. Most people keep to a more sensible 18-20psi and turbos that hit the sweet efficiency there. Not a lot of room for error with anything at 25psi, and everyone has had that issue with a batch of fuel at some point. Anyway the main point was running 18psi vs 25psi, you're going to notice restriction much more, generally.

Yeah it'll be ok. Not ideal... Ideal would be GT30 with a 1.06 IMO, 330rwkw doable. .82 gets up hard and would be giggly fun, would need a big tyre budget

I'll be there. Also keen to help out again for next year. With DECA getting off the ground the Motorsport looking to be stronger again - I'm keen to land sponsorships etc That's usually left up to the current Pres, but yeah that is what has occurred in the past and what I did with Richo. He was well across the Pres requirements before I stood down. Has done a great job since and has been SAU-Vic's longest standing Pres too! That said, it still goes to the vote at AGM.

And provided I get free time in the first 2 weeks of Jan. I'll be in. A lot of work to do to get the EVO ready between then and now though

Android - Race Chrono Pro (pay for the app, it's worth it for added inputs etc). Apple - Harry's Lap Timer To get decent timing you will need to use external GPS that is suited (google to work it out). Internal phone GPS gets very whack at times and can be a second out. External GPS unit is like $70-$100 and will last all day on a full charge (most are USB). Then you can upload all that data to Seriousracing.com and full data compare with others Definitely the way to go for self timing/data logging on a budget and the above set-up/apps is what most of us SAU track guys run.

GT30 as I said above for 300-330. You can get 400rwkw on E85 with the current turbo you have. The XR6 GT35s always seem to be a tad shorter on the power, probably the compressor A/R at the upper end making a slight difference. Overall compressor A/R doesn't make that much difference, turbine far more important. If you are going E85, get a GTX series. If you are staying on PULP then the GT series are the better choice IMO. GTXs only really shine at the higher boost ranges (talking 20psi++)

NEO head, do it. More and more are doing it - for good reason. Or go V-CAM... There is someone making a V-CAM without the HKS price, for the life of me I cannot remember who it is though. Pete - I can't confirm most of your points except intake. Just get a NEO / ITB throttle plate adapter. There are people that make them, I think like $800 - job done and it's bolt on. Just shave some material off the plenum you're installing and you're off and running. Even the plate itself - depending on how many mm you need.

^ as above. Nothing more than bling really.

Because the pipes run on a hot side that makes them a restriction? That makes absolutely no sense. Absolutely agree. Also with the Hypergear results earlier, they are all 25psi, so obviously E85. Most people will be running PULP and sub 20psi, there is potentially quite a bit less restriction. All coolers will have a pressure drop, you ideally don't want any more than 2psi max. That is where I am headed as well - It very much depends on what you are doing as to "how much" of an issue it actually is. The old heatsoak issue isn't as much of an issue, depending again on scenario. I've seen outlet temps vs throttle body temps on the old return flow and there is not a whole lotta difference at WOT at a race track (circuit, drag would be different). However there is certainly an issue in peak hour traffic, but then who's hitting WOT to 40km/h? Also to throw something in the mix I know I shouldn't... Bar/plate vs tube/fin is another fat can of worms to get the new kids to investigate in their own time (such an evil laugh I have going right now)

You want something at least dual solenoid. Blitz EBC, HKS, Greddy etc. Apexi is not dual, don't waste money on them as for the price the other above are far better value (and will work better)

Yeah just get Project MU. DBA make them as well in a 4000 series, and will be cheaper. IMO that it what I would do. The rear rotor really doesn't get a heavy work out so no need to pay for top shelf. It's the front you need to worry about.

Just put a set of DS2500 front/rear. Make sure the rear rotor is good thickness and slotted. The 2500s are a well tried and proven combo and reasonably economical on rotors as well. I ran it myself for years as have many others. Even run them in my 2 tonne HSV Roy doesn't like the pedal feel with them though so he'll suggest anything else lol

Yep, this is what most over look. Surface area and the master, biggest factors to shit performing brakes. Yep, this is where I am heading as well after reading the posts thus far. I wouldn't be blaming the brakes initially. Why? Because soooo many people run upgrade kits on the front with stock rears in full weight cars. None of them have issues... Yet the OP is... Something else sounds like it is amiss here. After reading stock pads, I think you are barking up a totally wrong tree now trying to upgrade the rears to fix this issue, I don't think it'll fix it at all. Are we talking GTS-t or GT-R rear here? IMO a decent set of pads and rotors in the rear is the first starting point. Also upgrade the pads in the front too. KSport stock pads aren't too bad (I used them myself) but there is a plethora of better options so change front and rear at the same time. That way you have the same compound front/rear and that'll make a difference just to start. Then hit the stuff Roy said. I've seen a 10mm drop in the rear of a GT-R turn it from a unsettled/unpredictable rear to the total flip around of perfect grip/well seated in a corner. Something small like that can make huge differences. I don't believe you need to upgrade rear brakes at all.There are plenty of Vic GTR guys running 350rwkw and Sub 1:20 @ Sandown and similarly blistering times at Philip Island which is all high speed stuff. Some are on semis. some extreme road tyres but they are all (monstly) running with upgraded fronts/stock rear brakes. None of them have ever had any issues you speak of.

Hence I use email lol.

The EVC just controls boost The PFC controls everything else. So if you have a boost issue, it's the EVC. If it's anything else, that can only bee the way the setup is in the PFC or something else is up the creek like fuel pressure (if it's fine to a certain point of 21.8 and goes wild for example). All of that though, tuner/workshop can easily diagnose... It's basic 101 checking time if that is the case. Gonna be hard over the internet.

Did you talk to Chris like I told ya Dan? He'd be able to let you know if it was a good idea or not.

People probably got a little confused - you keep saying sump extension. That usually means the shitty Trust one http://millennium-motorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=266_1_101_130_132&products_id=82 Which isn't really a proper high volume extended/baffled sump at all. PLENTY of places make high volume/baffle jobs High Octane Racepace Motorsport Racefab (as you've seen) There are LOADS of places you could purchase from

Yep, Falcon GT35 didn't have a large inlet but they did have that smaller A/R. Maybe it changed at some point? Unless you change the front A/R and aiming for 380rwkw, bit of a poor turbo choice IMO. Better off with a GT30 with a 1.06 AR if 300rwkw-330rwkw is the goal, even a .82 works well, comes on early and hard though so you need a decent investment in tyres/diff/suspension