R31Nismoid

Personalised is very pricey as they are one off production. Bulk over, are not and hence cost effective.

I delete them every few days. Repeat offenders get warnings

If the stock ones work fine - sell them, buy brand NEW Nismo. Will work out to be basically the same price as that reco price (plus each way delivery etc)

I don't recall anyone every fitting a 100mm item without modification. 115mm, you're gonna have an even worse time potentially. What setup? 115mm... That's big drag setup territory level of cooling. Likely you don't need remotely close to that (and just adding lag to the system) so going smaller would offer the same efficiency and perform better overall

370rwkw from memory? I had modified -9s myself once upon a time. 340rwkw @ 18psi on PULP and ran 124-125mph (R33, not R32). So for the extra 6psi / E85 and only 30rwkw, not totally sure what was done with his as it doesn't really make sense. Either that or I had different wheels as mine were MORE responsive than off-shelf -9s yet made the same peak power. Was perfect really, and then I put -5s on... Wouldn't do that ever again lol.

^ agreed. You wanna go Tomei pump, you wanna go a baffled/extended sump. Not just a tomei sump baffle like some think (band aid), but a full/proper sump upgrade. You suck it dry, which is highly likely with a Tomei pump even with restrictors, depending on how it's been put together and the PCV etc... They you've just lunched a motor. Different story if playing with N1 pumps/gears. Could get away with just baffling and overfilling by 1L

update thread as per rules please

PFC + 2x Nismo AFMs is still cheaper than a Haltech/Link + MAP + installation/labour etc. And you can install the PFC/Nismo AFM yourself in about 15mins. MAP Sensor not as simple for super average joe. Never use a second hand AFM. For a half price saving, once they start playing up... The pain is real. Also a easy trick the Vic EPA testers use, unplug the AFM. Car stalls, stock. Car does not stall, instant failure. Been doing it for 10 years+ now.

That's a solid result for your power

I've run T3 Clubs on my HSV. 365mm though. 4 track days (and 10k street kms) with 2 tonnes worth of car and plenty of HP so big stops always - No issues/cracks to report and I can tell you, my brakes get farken hot in the big tanker

Yeah, claimed. And then failed to run the MPH at the drags (as in, not even close to 350rwkw). I don't think there is one "350rwkw+" -9 equipped GTR that's actually come remotely close to backing up it's roller number at the strip yet, even after all these years. The problem with -7s and -9s is they simply do not respond to E85 well. Why you ask? Because they run out of air flow up top so you don't actually run out on 98 like you do with say a set of -5s because the boost is dropping off in the upper RPM - and when that is happening, you ain't gonna make much extra. You get such good gains from -5s because you can run MORE boost than you can on 98 - they don't run outta flow on 98 as you get to around 20-22psi and for most motor builds are tapping out. E85 and 25psi and off you go and this is where you get the extra gains from in the top end and also the midrange due to so much extra air. This is what -9s/-7s are a great street turbo on PULP. You will get some mid range on -9/-7 from E85, but it's just not going to give the kick/gains you get on -5s.

You'll be surprised how much difference just altering the plates in the transfer case will make. IMO it's 70% mechanical and 30% electronic. The gains you get from the transfer case "mod" (ie, rebuilding, altering the plate arrangement etc) is just exceptional. You get FAR more front end transfer immediately. It could likely be all you will need, as Joey said earlier and IMO - best post thus far.

I could fit 275/35 drag radials on R33 GT-R wheels, no issues.

Nick is coming down as well, he's entered I think Steve might by flying though haha.

Good feed indeed. Till next month!

I have heard of some workshops actually adding material to the head. I'm not sure where exactly, but the aim is for increasing response and from what I did hear - they said it did work. Such places probably won't give out any info though I wouldn't imagine, it's that type of stuff that gives you an edge over others. It's certainly something to consider and one would imagine that at a certain point it would actually become a problem (if chasing power). However if you are just aiming for a 300-330rwkw set-up and no more, then maybe you can get something out of it. Things do change over time as well, look at what E85 has done to performance.

Great review Tim, excellent in fact. And agreed - Just doing the fronts alters bias but not in a negative way. I had no issues with a big brake kit on my R33 with fronts only. Also do you use a Master Cyclinder stopper? I found that made a noticeable difference to pedal feel - probably nothing in terms of actual performance - added confidence in the pedal itself is what I found there which helped in that regard.

Anna updated all memberships before going on holiday (so as at Friday IIRC). So anyone that completed/paid, did the whole process, you should have it in the mail. If not email [email protected] and Anna will no doubt sort it out upon her return in around 3 weeks.

Well said. If you see things like 10/8kg (front/rear) then you're gonna have a bad ride. Definitely not harder than 6kg front as stated earlier for a daily, will suit stock stuff well enough.

Ikeya are super $$ though. Cusco stuff is a bit more reasonably priced. IIRC Hardrace do stuff as well which is also fairly decent and reasonably budget friendly. End of the day you don't need all the adjustability if it's light track (and assuming road) duties, you'll just end up making mince meat of tyres etc.

The potential of a stock box? Not much more than stock power (with a tune) Potential of a box with $3,000 spent on it? A lot more than stock power. Don't chase 300rwkw+ with a factory auto, you're gonna have a VERY bad time,

Ok so entered as well, with only 40 cars - Might as well and just have a lazy punt around in the EVO.

Import Monster also John (squared lol)

Yep, this is what I would be checking first... A 20 degree change of temp in 3-5 seconds is utterly impossible from a heating the system point of view. There is no way you can heat litres of water that fast, and then cool it the same - in an engine bay.

Can't say I had any idle issues with my Nismo 740s, was as good as factory. Cruise was also A-OK, economy was semi reasonable as well. Not as good as stock injectors, but that's always the way.