Chris_Beli

What would cause your car to restrict itself to less boost? As in what u be doing that would cause the boost to retard? Like I said when it used to happen to me was usually when I was going pretty hard and nearly always when going up a hill, and like I said also I know there was more to the explanation then what I said I just really can't remember

Have a look on the main page of this section of the forum there are stickied buyers guides check those out for all the info u will need

I used to cop this all the time, having a boost tee doesn't help as that's what I currently have, when I asked this question I got told something along the lines of when u increase your stock boost the ecu detects the high boost levels and enters retard mode returning it to factory boost ie like 7 psi, when u turn the car on and off the ecu resets back to normal and ur away, so ur solutions are change to more sophisticated boost control or just turn your boost tee down a bit, it used to only happen to me when I was really going hard and usually in hot weather and since turning my tee down a bit it hasn't happened again I vaguely remember it having something to do with setting of the engine knock sensor aswell? Hopefully someone can elaborate I don't remember the details as it was awhile ago and haven't had to worry about it since

Saw that in Cronulla yesterday I'm pretty sure it sounds like the same one

^ exactly as u said I'm amazed that it's most commonly the Holden/ ford drivers that seem to drive the most aggressively I rarely ever see other imports driving like nuts and to this day have only had one other import race me, I mostly get p platers wanting to have a go in various pieces of crap

My mums Mazda 3 would shred the thing in that video haha

My advice would be exactly what my parents said to me, wait till your off your p's and get a proper turbo one, from what I've heard the na skylines aren't particularly quick and coupled with an auto transmission I can't imagine it being a very fun car to drive, again like my parents said either get something that's cheap to run like a (I hate to say it) commo or falcon or consider something p plate legal that still pulls pretty hard, like say a SSS pulsar, Honda prelude etc. I'm now 22 and am glad I took there advice and waited, survived borrowing my mums car while on my p's and bought a turbo stagea as my first car, as someone else mentioned it's probably a good idea to get him to really work out how much he can afford to spend on his first car, how much money will he need for petrol and servicing etc because chances are it will be a reasonable amount of his income and when he really thinks about it he might rather having his money for going out and having fun

Spotted silver s2 c34 parked on kiora rd Miranda last night

Any pics? And where are u located?

I'm pretty keen to but it will depend when I will need the funds by, what state are u located in?

Spotted another yellow s2 c34 on princes highway between Sutherland and Kirrawee south Sydney last night

Yeah I noticed alot more everyday pieces of crap in that impound yard then imports...

Just out of curiosity how many of you guys have all the factory dayz carbon options on your stag? By all I mean front bumper insert, around headlights, outer door pillars, wheel arches all interior plastic, speedo background the works, and if you don't have them how rare are they? Have noticed a couple of people have the front insert in their display pics on the forums but as yet have never seen another stag with the carbon bits in real life, cheers for any info

That's where mine goes too, saw a black c34 there yesterday

I too was just like you not that long ago, didn't know what I wanted but knew it was an import, by the time I saved up plenty of cash I'd spent my entire p's driving my mums Mazda 3, for first car hopped straight into a 1999 turbo stagea, so I would say as others have already consider driving what's cheap and available then get exactly what u want on full licence

Cheers everyone guess turbo rebuild is the next thing on my list

Cheers everyone, I don't want to male massive power but I was hoping for more around the 180kw mark, it shouldn't be an exhaust issue as I already had a high flow cat put in, also it shouldn't be running rich I forgot mention it's running am safc 2 to lean it out and save my wallet, and I already do plan to get the original neo turbo rebuilt I should have phrased the question better I ment more like which should come first better boost control or turbo, for instance if I get my turbo highflowed and increase the boost will the bleed valve be able to cope? And would simply adding better boost control make much more power? The guy who dynoed it isn't my normal mechanic he said it would whereas my mechanic said it's probably the turbo that's why I wanted more opinions haha also Johnny bravo u say use better manual control, are u talking about changing to a different actuator like also mentioned?

I recently had my stag on a dyno to see what sort of power it is making at the wheels, unfortunately the figure was considerably less them expected, around 130kw at the wheels, the car is set to run around 12psi using a turbo smart bleed valve however when approaching redline boost at the manifold was dropping to around 7 psi, I was told the two most likely reasons are that the bleed valve can't hold the boost, or the turbo is running out of puff, which do guys think is the first point of call? Turbo upgrade or an ebc? The turbo is believed to be from an r33 rb25 as the stock one was blown and replaced by previous owner, other mods on the car are fmic, full hks exhaust and apexi pod filter, cheers for your opinions, oh and it's a 99 auto c34

That body kit is Awsome never seen it before, gl with sale

How much are u after for the rear strut brace?

To get the front off you unclip the grill it just pops out, then under it are a couple of screws, there are two more on the tips of the bar on the edge of the headlights, then two more on each side that you access from the wheel arches, then there are more clips attaching the bottom of the bar to the plastic undertray, and that's pretty much it from memory, the screws the in the wheel arches are pretty hard to get too and are behind the plastic mud guards

Well I stand corrected, ive always been under the impression the s models were the only RWD model, no need to be a smart arse or people won't ask questions in the future

That's what I said, the rs4s is the only model that was manual and it was RWD, the op said this car is a manual with AWD so it's been converted is what I'm saying

Only thing that hasn't been mentioned, the rs4 s models that came with a 5 speed from factory are not AWD they are RWD, if ur looking at a manual car with AWD it has been converted, also as the other yellow stag owners of said yes the under hood area is always a different colour and as pipster said being a more out their colour they draw alot of attention, usually more positive then negative though

On the economy front I don't really have any impressive stats to post, best I get is probably around 13l per 100km because I do alot of short trips and traffic, but what I will add is that I've had a large improvement since installing an apexi safc 2, have it set up to really lean me off when on low throttle and it works great very pleased with it and would recommend to anyone who is running a bit to rich. On the topic of snow forget Australia it's ludicrously expensive and crap compared to elsewhere, give NZ a go MUCH better and seriously about the same price