AngryRB

im just curious , is the return pipe here being returned to a optimum angle, just wondering if the gas returning would be crossing the main flow of the dump and be restricting the flow, happy to be corrected cause im just curious what angle is the best, i thougth it would be better on a steeper angle toward the general flow of the main pipe

looks like its internal gated comparisons, makes the GTX turbos look better than the gt turbos even though its 58trim vs 56trim and bigger , the gtx35 in 0.63 looks the goods to me, approaching 500hp with only 500rpm lag over gtx3076,

your already up near 280kw, id go 3.5inch dump and then 3.5inch system and add extra mufflers and resonators to quieten it down to what you want. i wouldnt go any less than that.

just get the guy in the chopper to drive it, lol, looks like he knows what to do!!:rofl2:looks like a chopper ,

that GTX3582 looks like a monster, full boost on 4000rpm Does this mean the GTX3071 is a bit laggy or does this subaru make boost better than an rb?

not sure bout that, mine has become alot more raspy and crackly with a bigger turbo and exhaust, but agree NA's sound very weak and crap in comparison

ive been driving with my gtx3076 and stockish tune, cant do more than 2-3psi without the engine light coming on, you should be able to baby it around no probs just change gear at 2500rpm with not much throttle, mine still keeps up with traffic even off boost, just shift up quickly and your fine.

after pulling the cover off bout 5times, the cam and crank timing is spot on and the cas is slotting in and working so all i can do now is replace all the silicon hoses and get better clamps and then see. bloody frustrating, just when it starts idling nice and i think its fixed ill jump in to drive it and soon as the clutch engages the whole things falls apart with lumpy roughness Would having the O2 sensor unplugged contribute to this problem? the dump that was made has no hole for the 02 sensor.

im convinced this must be related to the timing settings on the crank and the cams, if i have to fully advance the CAS to just make it run, and run bit rough at that then this must mean somthing. anyone? im not sure what to retard or advance? the crank or the cams?

ok i got a brand new cas, it started and runs well but every now and then the idle goes weird and stalls on me, any ideas why that would happen, ive checked all the pipes and they look pretty tight but could be improved, i had to fully advanced the cas to make it idle nicely i did have the throttle body off, ive taken it for a drive and is driving very nice, the cams seem to have made a difference even without boost, so the issue now is the occasional wierd idle that will start stalling and stall on me...

i took it back off last night and dont see any metal shavings, i actually broke the bracket on the weekend,got it welded yesterday, last night i just put the long bolts on first and then it went on straight, i left all the covers off so i could check for leaks and timing marks etc how do you space the cas out? i assumed your just bolt all the bits on and make sure the the little match up. Whatever has happened it must be gone, just seems that the is no spark anymore Assuming the cas needs replaced, should i buy a new one or can i trust a used one again?????

Finally got the car together and started it, it was idling nicely for about 5minutes then the revs went low then it stalled now it wont start, it will turn over and over but no kick, have i stuffed the cas? what do you think?

I used to have 2871 highflowed into stock housings on my r33, it was very responsive on a RB25, it would be pulling hard on 2500rpm, so i guess on an rb20 it might be quite good, made 214kw on 17psi ( 56trim ) Might be a good idea to go for the r34housing cause you'll want more power later on.

Thanks mate, i managed top line the gears and crank up, the biggest part of the job seems to be putting the timing belt back on, looks like i have to strip all the belts off to get to the tensioner

Just need some help , Ive installed them with the crank say 10degrees advanced, and the cams in the "happy spot" cause in the proper marks aligned spot they werent sitting to well, the lobe was at a peak on number 6. the timing marks at about 9 o clock and 3 oclock, whereas the cams are bolted down and sitting at 11oclock and 1oclock so can i just turn them to there proper marks now without hitting a piston and bending any valves? or have i already bent a valve?

Any of those mufflers with the restrictor are quiet, i have a fujitsubo 3 1/2 inch and all you can hear is the engine

sounds like a tired motor, does it have cams or alot of aftermarket work done?

what about MTQ, surely they would sell them?

if you have the ability and time, you could take the head off and have it checked and have a bit shaved off , that would raise the compression by itself, take half a mm or 1mm off and you'll up to over 160psi or more but if it were me id get an rb25, check the compression , then you'll be on another level and more potential obviously i wouldnt waste money on a 2L.

I dont think your compression is that bad , my brother used to have a rb20det out of the r31 and that have about 150psi in most cylinders , you could put a new set of rings on or convert to an rb25, sounds like your coilpacks need replaced, you should still be able to run a bar of boost even with worn out motor.

+1 agreed, better to go bigger and open it right up

sounds like a dry humping session, lol it must be normal, my intercooler pipes are too hot to work on after an hours drive.

still need the blow off return plumbed in , but looks pretty simple ill just get some short bit and make two holes, angle it into the turbo right on the bend, will take a pic and upload