AngryRB

i had mine tuned bout 6months ago, got several quotes and they were all around $600-$800, thats for a full tune starting from scratch with a power fc.. one thing i dont understand is why a fairly mildly modded car would take 5hrs on a dyno, i wouldnt go to a place charging 1200 for a tune, chances are they are just high rollers with a big name but doing the same job that the less known guys are doing... i ended up paying well over 1200 and i felt a bit ripped off still, i think they put there efforts more into the big spenders , the guys with the best cars and biggest wallets, they dont care bout a young guy with an r33, hes small fry compared to the r35guy with $5000 to throw around so you get left till last and the job rushed, if your car is the last on the dyno and your picking it up late, like after dark, have to wonder if they have really put much effort into it.. just my opinion

isnt there a setting on the power fc that if turnt on and the car knocks, it makes the engine light flash ive had that happen on mine one time..

how are you guys going with a full lock on the front wheels, cause i have 18*9.5 all round 30offset and the front wheels are hitting the struts, has already shaved a bit off the strut.. thats on a r33.

what brand do you have, cause my bro has one in his and its very sweet and quiet, most likely put in when in japan as the whole car seems to be quite special with alot of quality improvements,

hey just thought id say, i got a GTR rear wing off boostcruise for $150 but had to paint it again so some cheap parts to be had, also my brother has a GTR grill on his series 1, doesnt fit perfect but looks alot better than a standard one, has mesh on it also..not sure where you'd get one though

you could pick up an old mitsubishi cordia with a 4g63 for under 5k if you can find one, or a galant with 4g63 ( the turbo ones) , cordia is old put if you picked one up for say 1500 you could boost it up or bolt a garrett and an intercooler on.. or pick up the old celica supra 84 model for 3k and maybe swap the engine for a v8 or turbo supra motor for a few thousand more, even a vl turbo engine slotted in would go hard

No longer selling, close thread!!

where can you get a shortshifter for an r33 these days, from what i saw on nengun , the c's shifter has discontinued, which leaves nismo which is bloody expensive

Mafia, that 3076 sounds soooo filth,, spooling up soo nice, mm mmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmm! that is gooo goooooooo gooooooooooooooooooooooood !! lol !!

if im warmed up , ive become of the opinion of , well i only get so many squirts on these streets, if your going to take that lane then you obviously want to drag and challenge me so i just put the revs up and hose them off lol..... if cold then i have to let them go.. living in jimboomba theres alot of long country roads so squirts are far and inbetween, have to make the most of squirts ,.. all in 80/90 zones so not illegal lol

i wouldn't settle for "if its within 5-10psi of each other then its good" id want minimum 160psi for each cylinder hot or warm, 140-150 is like 8:1compression ratio so lazy and worn out a bit... why settle unless thats what you have and have to work with it.. mine is 160 000kms old and still has 170+/-5psi, so a perfect condition motor is probably about 180psi each cylinder, i stand to be corrected.

+1 to waving to a fellow skyline driver, although im sceptical they'd wave back, have a question for you guys... what do you do when at the traffic lights, 2lanes turning into one, you have the right lane and a car pulls up in the left lane with there lane ending... do you put them in there place ( drag is on) or do you let them go?? I always feel the pressure that i should be infront and quite often will be tailgated by lesser powerful cars trying to prove they are fast or something... can be very irritating especially when your engine is cold and you dont want to be coming onto boost.

my opinion after having a rb20et with a gearbox issue involving slipping top gear ( previous owner towing a boat i believe and also had a cracked hose going to wastgate so running 14psi without me knowing) is to not waste money on the crap auto and just buy a manual and do conversion atleast... better still do a rb25et conversion or buy another car cause its seriously a waste of money doing anything to such a crap motor and box, at mimimum its a shit box not worth spending money on... and thats the truth...

i just have a comment on the dump pipe, i have a 3inch xforce dump and was told it wasnt a very good one and that replacing it would be a good idea, what do others think here, personally i think xforce is shit and should be thrown in the bin, it looks small and narrow from my point of view,

when buying oil , dont be cheap, use a high quality oil such as Mobil 1, royal purple, redline, motul300v if your still using oil then your engine or turbo seals need some work or use a thicker oil like 60 when hot, but really your engine isnt that healthy if you have to do that...

+1 to jrm's comments, depending on the generation, a tune when talking skylines is more directed toward aftermarket i would of thought and a tune up , sounds like old style adjustments to already standard parts, although when my bro took his car to have a so called "tune" it had a standard computer so i have no idea what they called a "tune", more like they thought, this guy has no idea so lets charge him to move the cas a few millimeters and check his fuel mixture print out a dyno graph and claim we did a tune, he'll never know cause hes a dumbass anyway lol" , thanks you assholes for your hard work!! my 2cents, peace people

haha

have a r33 rear spoiler for sale, its a factory one in silver , in VGC $80

what a rip off

thanks thats the answer i was looking for, good info..

sorry just trying to figure out at what point the 20cells for example max out, say for example if the 20cells span from idle accross to 225kw and your making 250kw's, then i was wondering if the z32 then becomes better for tuning and better graph, or do you somehow guess what the voltage would be or somting, my knowledge is lacking here so thats why im asking.

so say for example, i was at a power level between say 200 and 250kw, would using the z32 give the dyno graph a fatter curve or /more accurate or steeper curve than the standard?

what about if it were a r33 gtst, would the z32 be better than a stock afm, at what power output would the z32 be best to use?

how much for the sards

hey what tyres you going to upgrade to.. i know theres alot of threads on it, just wondering what you think is best value/grip..