AngryRB

used to have a vl turbo and when the airflow was on the way out, it puffed alot of fuel and black smoke out the back, very similar to what your talking about, then eventually wouldnt start at all, have you ruled the airflow out??

I dont think 30 is high enough, personally id go for a 10w 40, if the engine is using oil then increase it to 50 300v is a good oil , its a mixed opinion subject, but most high quality synthetic oils are good enough, i prefer to pay more and feel reassured, I found Mobil 1 Gold to be a good one, currently using Royal Purple but might switch back next change..

by a decent tyre are we talking a soft jap tyre? what profile width do you reckon, as fat as possible???

yeah definitely, there an awesome motor , alot of vl turbos with 200 000km plus still haul

+1 thats a great point, never thought of it before..

when i got the 195kw it was a stock computer without any tuning, the 215kw was with adding a pwr fc and tuning on 1.25bar but it was dropping off to 1bar by redline and also with splitfire coilpacks and walbro pump added i will try again cause i feel like it has the power to do alot better, the launches were all spinning in first gear, even second and chirping third, so its all to do with the take offs, power is there to do alot better.. the 214kw graph is alot steeper and heaps more torque and earlier too, and on the road it pulls alot harder than before which was lacking, so i dont doubt the tuner or the graph...

whats a that?

thats not a bad compromise 6500, be interesting to know what happened with this build.. eventually will be an option for me..

just a quick question, how many revs do those rb25/30 engines rev to safely, assuming they are standard parts etc? and what piston to bore clearance is ideal?

Ive always been a bit confused bout the run in procedure, some different opinions around, but if you guys say you've done hundreds of engines with no failure then ill take your word on it..

well ive got a dyno sheet saying 214kw and an old one saying 195, i think its fairly accurate, i was trying to feed the clutch but it kept gripping and spinning the wheels , ive changed the avcr setting to -50% duty and softened up the tyres and suspension and seems to be launching better now, so will attempt again in the next few weeks

you'll need guard work for sure,

That compression test shows some cylinders at 60 so all the gases are blowing by and into the sump, then that would result in oil and gas venting up to the head and out the breathers wouldnt it? Did you say the workshop installed the pistons and rings? When you bore out the cylinders they have to be left with very light scratches, deep scratches stop it bedding in, and i dont think 4000rpm and 20psi is a good idea for atleast a few thousand km's, You might be glazing up the rings instead of bedding them, to bed them you load the engine up under 3000rpm in a high gear for a 1000ks or so or can someone correct me if its changed? I think the problem is either the ring installation, the boring and clearance , and the run in procedure, I think the whole process sounds rushed , you cant just build a motor and be on the dyno after a few hundred km's and be boosting up to 20psi surely that isnt good for rings that are trying to bed in, maybe that caused a few rings to break if they werent already

i think he gets it now, its not the tuners fault, how has he not assembled it right?? it ran, its not noisey, its massive blowby thats the prob the standard parts are supposed to be fine for 500hp plus, so hes done nothing but put the thing together , the mechanics measured and assembled the important measurements not him..

+1 to beer barons comments no need for so much negativity towards joe, you done a good job and put it together it sounds more like the guys that bored the block and gapped the rings etc.. you just put it together, so how is it all your fault?? gees Sounds like the bores could be poorly machined and rough as hell and the rings poorly gapped or just not sealing off very well, ive had that before when i left it in the hands on a machine shop, some of them are obviously rough necks that do an shit job of it, im not saying they have, just saying its quite possible.. Cant trust workshops to give you perfect clearances, always double check there work cause its a precision job, not a rough neck, she'll be right process. 450rwhp sounds pretty decent though, doesnt sound that bad to throw in the towel on it.. and not tuners fault, he cant control blow by and oil control.. so like beer baron said, compression test will likely show up whats going on good luck and stick with it..

there is a traitor amongst us!! An RX7 over a GTR???

yeah! what he said!!

so can anyone confirm wether the restrictor inside the mufflers really affects the power output?? i just replaced my old cat back system with the fujitsu system, pretty sure it has the restrictor in there , If the turbine wheel is say 53mm or even 60mm, would a 2 1/2 inch restrictor in the muffler really affect the power its still bigger than the turbine wheel isnt it?

i got away with 30offset 9.5 all round, but the front is tad too much in my opinion, better with more on front so you can turn the wheel and not scrub. The inside of the rim is scrubbing the strut on a full lock so ill need spacers..

+1 have a look at the CAS position , see if someones been messing with it.

the only rotary ive been in was a series 4 RX7 with 13B turbo, was the most disappointing car ive ever been in, in auto form it was a nightmare, got dragged off by just bout anything, after a manual conversion it was hard work to do a 15.8 but at the same time it drank 18L/100kms, and that was driving it to 2000rpm in each gear... Must take alot to get a rotary moving, the LS chev on the other hand pretty much is ahead without touching it, a standard r33 is behind to start with, what a crappy turbo it has to begin with.. Hard to beat a 6.0L V8 , if they go buy a blower then we'll have to go borrow Castrol Edges GTR, then can sort them out. lol..

maybe you should check the compression too... if its all carboned up inside it will have too much ive had the cas fully advanced before and added octane booster with no audible pinging or problems, only time it pinged was with low octane fuel, ( i dont do that anymore) just saying with a standard ECU it must run rich enough to wind the cas up a fair bit, from the 2 rb25det that ive seen after being tuned, its sits about half way. Does the car run hot?? if it were overheating it would ping pretty fast, Do you have a boost guage to make sure its not overboosting and running out of fuel?

ahh ok,

+1 can easily agree there, cause there nasty biatches lol , need a GTR to kick there ass hahah yeah!!!!!!!!! all good fun though ( on the dragstrip though!! not on road !!) )