AngryRB

Hey, I have a 33 gtst, i get bout 11 -12L/ 100km's You'll use more fuel depending on how many cold starts you do too, and if it was a gtst and now gts, then you should be able to run alot more ignition timing, like fully advanced, that would help it alot, be much more lively and better on fuel, correct me if im wrong...j but 10-12 would be the best you can get id say, and thats not that bad...

Hey mate, Thats bull, dont get ripped off, shouldnt cost that much, should be no more than 1200 mine cost 1100, but i got several quotes at 1200, i did it twice cause the first time was the button clutch, i didnt like it so i decided id just do it all myself the second time, so the clutch coast bout $500, but you gotta machine fly wheel cost bout $50. so if you have a few mates that can help and time, then maybe do it yourself and save some dough, but 1500, thats a rip off while they got it off make sure they replace that seal between the engine and box, rear main seal i think it is orelse you might have oil come thru onto clutch eventually, and also that the flywheel and clutch cover plate have a properly machined face and are the same looking face so the clutch doesnt slip or engage like its jarring, Its good to get it right so you dont have to do it twice... good luck

yeah id like to have a few runs down the quarter soon, cause it is going alot better than the last time i raced it, and i got a 13.8 with bold tyres, slipping clutch and no power fc, so if i can get some good take off's id be happy with a flat 13, the tein coilovers and 18's i have now should make a difference this time,

Hey i have the exedy heavy duty rated to 250kw, there a good clutch, im not sure bout the cushioned button clutch but ive driven the 5puk button and hated it, the cushioned one is supposed to be better having more pucks i think, If choosing again id go with the fully organic sport heavy duty clutch, handles 280kw apparently, apparently it bites more than just the Heavy duty. Hope that helps..

Going back to the point though, i wouldnt say its a bad tune that i got done, it drives alot better than before, i was just that there was such a stuff around. First tune it has 195 and im told it wont hold a bar, only 10psi, so need to upgrade actuator 2nd tune, after 2hrs im told, after trying both a garrett and a HKS actuator, they dont work either, must be the turbo itself but then as i turn up, oh its just worked now, it must of been the angle on the actuator, so effectively nothing was really done for 2 hrs, it works now so you just tuned it quickly in like 10mins, and now its pay time, $600 thanks what kind of tune can be done in 10minutes? It really seems to me that they should of fit the HKS actuator straight away and modified it like you were saying, and then it would of held more boost over more rpm and therefore better tune, more power, more torque and customer satisfaction.. and also they pulled my plugs out , which had 10 000k's on them, said they were needing changed, they were iridium plugs how could they be needing replaced?? shouldnt they be good for more ks than that? so i got plain copper ones for $50 so $1200 in tuning and the jobs not done properly..

you could be right about the housing being too small, ive asked a shop called MTQ about my setup, i was going to buy a proper garrett housing to make it complete, cause the gt2871 is rated at 440hp, that would be with .86 housing, he said the standard housing is about a .7 and estimated it should do 250kw. Its interesting how steep your power curve is compared to mine and with the bigger GT30 your making same as me till bout 3000rpm then your 20kws more the rest of the way, 5mm bigger doesnt sound like much but certainly making good power increase, but you'd be running 19psi wouldnt you???? so maybe they'd be closer after upgrade the injectors and actuator, who would of thought the fuel filter would of made such a difference.. so quarter mile do you do??? I have a Exedy HD clutch too,

gonna keep it,

I guess its still an oil which will lubricate the parts, probably accelerate engine wear , but arnt all those mitsubishis pretty gutless and noisey anyway, even with good oil they all seem to start smoking well before a nissan.. if it were thick it might lead to some oil starvation that if severe maybe cause big end bearing to sieze, although an old motor would have large clearances so maybe thats why its had no problems

yeah ill definitely get another wastgate actuator, I was wanting to get the z32 airflow installed but the tuner said the standard one was good for 250kw, and the z32 is for 250kw-350kw, would the z32 make it rough for normal driving and idling or was that so they didnt have to do much work??? lol I think the injectors must of maxed out on 1.25bar, cause the engine light flashed a few times, so i put it to 1bar again.. so i guess ill get some injectors , actuator, and install that z32 and do more research finding a tuner... So have you done a quarter mile in your car arthur?? 240kw's is getting a bit nasty, does it loose traction in 2nd???

Hey yeah its a standard actuator and has 2bends in it, the tuner tried a garrett and a HKS and apparently they were not fitting, so they just put old one back on and told me , i should upgrade my turbo and dump if i want to make better power.... Apparently all this stuffing around took them 2 n 1/2 hours and $600 to figure out , it had already been tuned a fortnight before so it was just meant to be a boost increase and tune... OK so today ive looked at the AVCR which has the F/B speed setting switched off , so i turned it on to setting 4 for gears 1-4, and hey presto i instantly get the full 1.25bar in second gear but with the engine light flashing ( so i assume ive either knocking or running out of fuel, standard injectors) point is , if i took 1minute to get that result, what am i being charged $600 for???? feels like a rip off to me... i maybe not be spending massive money or have a 1000hp GTR but i should still get every last kw outa my tune..... I live in brissy, and have been to 3 different workshops and each dont seem to have a clue, i just want to find a tuner that will do the job properly any suggestions based on experience...

actually it drops from 214kw at 6000 to 175 at 7000rpm..

Im running a pwr FC with following mods -Walbro fuel pump -FMIC -3inch exhaust -AVCR - turbo is a highflow which has a garrett 2871R with 56trim , but uses the standard housings, althought the wastgate has been made bigger with a gt35 flap to control boost creep. After 2 tunes costing $1200 it makes 214kw at 6000rpm, its been set to 1.25bar and 90%duty on the avcr but only reaches 1.05 so from 6000-7000rpm it drops like 20kw instead of flattening or peaking more. Cant help but think for that money, and messing round with different garrett and HKS actuators that a better result could of been produced, or do i have to spend even more on tuning???

Thanks for that info,

so what is the safe limit of boost on standard head gasket, and also i was told not too use octane booster, is that bull or good advice??

Hey guys, Apologies if this question has been answered already in the forums, Im having trouble finding a good tuner, seem to be spending/wasting money on tuners who dont have my best interests at heart, seems they all just after making a profit, i seem to get fed bullshit and feel that they are falling short of getting every kw out of my beast, can anyone recommend a tuner who isnt just bout profit and that will involve me in every detail of the mods and tune, im not a tight arse just getting sick of falling short of what i know could have been a better job, so far ive gone thru 3 business in brissy which im not sure if i should name, so any suggestions would be appreciated. cheers in advance

has new plugs and splitfire coils, tuner set the gaps so i havent checked, i noticed that the avcr is only set up to 6500... so not sure why they'd stop it there i take it 1bar is safe using a standard head gasket up to 7000rpm.. or is that leaning on danger???

hey so did you guys find the problem, cause ive just had mine tuned , new coilpacks, plugs, different actuators used, and it loses bout 15-20kws after 6000rpm, was told the dump pipe is a bit average, what do you think??? Mods-walbro pump, hiflow turbo, pwr fc, splitfire coils, pod, fmic

yeah the Mobil 1 Gold, to me it seemed to start up more lively and idle maybe slightly higher and accelerate more keenly... just my opinion though, i dropped the castrol after doing a few hundred ks, .. not to say that it wouldnt be good in someone elses engine though..

compression is at 140 even though all cylinders, sounds a bit low but aparently its fine, any way of checking the cat to see if its clogged or blocked? Hey isnt that compression a bit off, last time i did mine they were more like 170 give or take 5, maybe its not the problem but that wouldnt be doing things much good would it??? i agree though about the FPR

I could be wrong but i was sure i could tell the difference in oils just by the idle speed and how the engine would crank over.... could be a far stretch.. that is comparing castrol edge 10-60 and Mobil 0-40.. hmm cant remember if there was any beer involved though so..

maybe compression is down or the cat is blocked?? hmm

The Mobil seems to stay nice and gold looking between oil changes, but the last time the car was dynoed and i checked it afterwards it was very dark, i guess it probably got a good workout hey?? lol... maybe my squirts dont compare to a dyno run...

SOLD

bump!!

Had a similar problem , boost started at 14 and was 10 by redline, apparently its the wastegate actuator but im no expert