AngryRB

Yeah, its adjustable, just loosen the bolts and it will turn either way, the factory setup requires you have to take the pulley off to adjust it because bolts screw in from the back, not the front, which is shit... apologies.. i should of taken a photo of the ring removed to show it more clearly.. but trust me its adjustable.. Many thanks to Ben for this

Thanks for that link, i've since read that the GU's dont take aftermarket turbo's too well so i dont wanna be responsible for any grenades... so gonna put the idea to rest .. cheers..

nothing exciting to update, but drilled the intake cam gear out to fit the adjustable intake ring that Ben sent me, received the two RB30 tensioner's and have got the timing ready to go, just need to get some conical washers and nuts to tighten them up ( can't find originals ) .... Managed to straighten the stock fuel rail and will attempt to fit that up on the weekend... seem's to be taking ages but will try to drop engine in the bay once these things are sorted..

Bring on GT30 and giggly fun..

Nice work man, i like your work, i wanna do same with the chrome covers and the braided lines

My mate bought a 4.2diesel GU patrol at an auction and assumed they were turbo but this one got no turbo, 200k's and manual.. After driving it we can't believe how slow this thing is, so does anyone know if turboing this engine is good idea, and how would you do a decent job on a budget, just a quick list of parts and cost would be helpful .. Could you use the whole hotside from a 4.2TD at a wreckers and just use aftermarket computer and tune it? or is there more to it?

Been so long since i've driven an RB, i got my hands on my bro's skyline for night, took these pics in the morning... came from Japan this way.. I want that rear bar or maybe just whole car will do , it had a HKS2540 on it and did flat 13 quarters all day long, while my hiflow back then could only get 13.8 so don't know why, it just hammers.. This thing looks like a GTR to me, and the gearshifts are very close and quick, and gives off a pretty angry note running SS2 but untuned This pic not best but i was drooing over it with a beer lol..

How the Faaaark does this happen?

Apexi AVCR... works a treat..

What you should do, well what i did was go to the import wreckers and find a Jap catback system, it wont cost you much and you can install yourself... it will sound nice just like you want, if the muffler says JASMA then it wont draw unwanted attention when normal driving.. Later on you can change the rear muffler or whatever if you start making lots of power.. I would avoid exhaust shops because in my short experience with them all, they are wankers!!! They'll probably fit some shit parts, take the car for a good flogging and return it to you with the front bumper scratched plus a nice big bill...

You could try removing the lifters and see for yourself if they can pump up, I changed some LS1 lifters not long ago, they were brand new and hard as, but when put in car they were good till things got hot then sounded terrible so most likely the bore was worn cause its alluminium, this is a possibility...

I dont know where $987 comes from cause wouldnt they just have to put a feeler guage under the cam lobes to see that the lifters arn't pumped up? must be $900/hr at that place.. They may have cleaned things a little too well at the engine shop, cause the lifters and the lifter bore rely on tight clearances which on older engines help to cover up with carbon, this why its not good to clean old engines i reckon..

Just some leftover parts from RB3025neo build that i dont need, i have no idea if they are good or not as i bought from sau off a member, id guess and say they work atleast to stock power levels.. stock neo injectors $100 coilpacks $50

I'll have the resonator chopped to look inside i reckon, i just assumed it was big enough, whole system cost me $200 from wrecker, its 3 1/2inch jap and had jasma rated cannon but stepped down to 2.5 inside muffler, so i put an Xforce 3.5inch on the back ... But ive got a HKS muffler from an R33 which i drove and it sounded proper angry and has the restrictor inside, sound is important to me atleast if not many others...

thats good power from 2.5inch, my resonator must be same cause on 98 i couldnt get more than 280kw with 3076, will get that chopped now after seeing this... I think though, that having it go down in size in the muffler probably gives it a better sound, I've heard/read about this creating the best exhaust sound, quieter on low engine speed and angry at top end cause of the higher pressure/speed of the gas..

Got some breather fittings on the rocker covers, got the lug shaved off the power steering bracket and fitted lower plenum half and the ex mani, tried the 1000xspurts into the stock rail and looks like they need extensions even though they looked like they should fit when compared to stock neo injector, Waiting on my old man to finish putting new bearings into the tensioners so i can put the timing belt on Thinking whether the engine timing can be set better than just using the cover marks for the crank and cams, maybe a dial guage to atleast check the pistons postion but not sure how to check cam marks accuracy..

Good to hear about youi cause i have insurance with them, make sure the gaps are good and they paint job isnt full of orange peel, both of which i've experienced which is annoying and shit to look at ...

the old lifter issue, i found a light oil best for cold lifter noises, on an LS1 the 0-30 made it quiet cold but noise came when hot, when i put 10-60 in, the noise was there cold but went away hot... still not 100% what the go is with lifters but thats what happened, now i pissed the LS1 off and i got neo head for the RB, in the end the hydraulic lifters are a pain in the ass... In old engines i think the oil pressure could be the issue, if the lifters are worn or the lifters bore then it bleeds away.. so the oil used wont fix that.. id try a very thin oil and a thick oil, then id start stripping shit down to find whats doing..

hmm, they the same but look different, i'd take yours over the other though.. looks tougher

mine lost comp on number 5 when i accidentally hit 25psi, interested to see how yours goes.. post graph

Yeah, was bit worried cause im turning the motor on the stand all the time so could of found its way back up top, but crisis is over..

Had a win today, used the hoist and engine leveler on a 45degree angle and flushed the head with diesel and the lost washer came out, really relieved bout that Got a 3mm disk from my old mans work to bump the pressure Got my Fabricator to modify the engine mounts, the guide says 15mm drivers side and 12mm passenger side, looks very standard, very nice work Also got him to weld 3 breathers on and put longer studs on the stock manifold, a bitch of a job apparently.. but looking good now.. And some other pics of the undercarriage before i put the sump on and oiled it up well .. looks alright for the age of it, apparently had 140k's on it and it did sound pretty sweet with not blow by on idle, but we'll see...

Get out and stay out ya pissy 2.5L lots of small fabrications happening at moment lol... more pics to come

cheers, too easy

Quick question, in the guide no one mentions the little stud that the spring fits onto so might sound silly but you do still need the studs is that right?? so drill and tap for them too, assume its just same as the tensioner studs and they just go thru a coolant chamber...