AngryRB

Why not return it back to more stock, you could use the money from sale of turbo, dump, injectors and maybe other stuff you dont need, then buy the stock gear and replace the headgasket ( $60) then get some wheels and should be sweet? Don't sell it off to some low baller, pick yourself up a 1K shitbox so you can get to work and then fix up the GTR so you can enjoy it..

Some amateur grinding and porting, looks a bit rough but not gonna spend hours on it... hmm, getting closer.. Was wondering if i should use the RB30 or the RB25 stock crank pulley, thinking the 25 looks a better pulley and they seem the same weight..

Download workshop manual and get stuck into it, take lots of photo's and label/put in containers

Some progress being made, got the knock sensors in although it appeared the RB30 block already had some spots but are lower than the RB25 locations so decided to copy the RB25 spots and drill and tap them, hope thats right.. Drilled the top tensioner and put the stud in with loctite, then the lower one was shifted over to the right, also put the a/c bracket on and the power steering one will have be ground level to fit the block properly next plus the belt on and crank pulley put on.. then is exhaust manifold and intake manifold to bolt on etc.. lots of small jobs and will need to pull the RB25 out with box on soon... Just a pick before the knock sensors got drilled, will put more pics on as i go, and the RB25 whats left of the front end... nothing exciting

Front bar looks alright, good comp so looks like a good base for some power upgrades, i can suggest a GT3076 or SS2 depending on your goals, both are great turbo's..

looks like im on my own here, thanks for all above help, we'll see if she blows on the dyno, all thanks will go to sau lol...... will try tilting it on an angle with the engine hoist and flushing/compressed air to see if a washer comes out or not, apart from that its all a toss of the coin... stay tuned or not...

Hope you get it sorted, i'm looking forward to seeing what the beast puts out, 340kw's is great so far

Pulled the large welsh plug off the back of the head, thats just for coolant so thats no good, am looking at the inspection camera's but wondering if they will be able to get down into the lower drain holes before i spend $$ Does anyone know if you can use this camera to look into the head from under the block with the sump off? Engine builder says it will flush out to the sump and not to worry bout it but wanna make sure.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Autel-MV400-8-5mm-Car-Digital-Borescope-Videoscope-Inspection-Camera/251177013261?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3Dd6257c12f3fd49f7b5d3af24c973cbe0%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D290842847189

Had many attempts bolting the head down, it was continually dripping from the oil drains, then after bolting it down i noticed one washer was missing, worst feeling... So will try and source a camera to look into the springs and pull the welsh plugs off and look in there two, this is how it looks so far, plus put on water pump and factory thermostat and oil cooler thingy...

I got 165-175psi on the R33 and 150psi on an RB20 , both healthy motors with no blow by issues.

yeah i think ill try to get one of those camera's, the washer is a decent size, id say about 18mm diameter how many times can you remove an ARP stud and tension them back up, done it twice now

discovered that one washer is unaccounted for, worst feeling cause if its in the head somewhere its not showing itself, i've used a magnet on the end of a tube , blow compressed air , turn it upside down and search everywhere but its either not there or its hiding lower in the head??? Must be some kind of hidden chamber in the middle of the head?? can i pull the large welsh plugs out from the rear and front and gain access from there to rule this out..???

spot of bad luck hey, 6hrs is alot, any ideas what it could be?

To answer my question, a second washer is a good idea cause the stud is longer than the stock RB25 bolt.... I've assembled it dry and without copper spray so we'll see how that goes...

Yeah new ARP studs and nuts, should the one washer be enough that they supply as it seemed to tension up alright..

biggest problem at the moment is an endless drip, shouldn't be this hard to bolt a head down... lol.. I used some plasti guage to check the head and block are straight and all good but when lifting head back off there was a good film of oil left after blowing it all passages with compressed air etc.. so its playing games with me .. must be some hidden oil gallery/drain in the center that has a pool, kind of like a spring in the ground lol... On a positve note though, the gasket and copper spray had stuck to the head and block pretty well, took ages to clean block and head apart from the bit round these gallaries..

looked like that 34 was slowing for the pits... lol

I had similar in my car on a few occasions, and pumping the pedal would bring the pressure back, it could be a leaking slave cylinder seal??

Looking awesome, paint looks flawless!

Have to make sure the oil doesn't drip down onto the gasket thought while im trying to fit and torque it down, thinking of washing the head with diesel and blowing out with compressed air, hopefully that will work.... Is Hylomar Spray the best thing to use?

its all good, i took the head back off few hours ago and looks like it was gonna leak cause around those drain holes it was bit oily and clean so the gasket there had not stuck to the block and head like everywhere else.... Was using a OEM RB26 gasket, but i just purchased a RB30 OEM gasket to try again.. Have used copper spray on an LS1 and an ecotec with success so i guess just following that run of successes, the copper must mix into the gasket cause i cant see much copper after taking the gasket off, was mostly sealing though cause i couldnt get the head back off without prying it with a bar...

So i had a go at bolting a neo head down onto the RB30 bottom and theres couple of possible issues which im not 100% sure if will be a problem.. so brief run down - sprayed copper spray on the headgasket but didnt torque it down for about 2hrs but it was installed with head sitting on it. - kept getting a few oil drops leaking out the drains in the head so maybe have leaked a bit onto the head gasket on one side. - torqued it down in 3 steps 25nm, 50nm, 80nm So is this dodgey or all good?

yeah i had to cause the bolts wouldnt stretch when following the engine manual, i just went very slow and even following torque sequence and specs, 12nm seems pretty soft but thats what it says... looks all good now look forward to your results with the ss2

Washed the head today as it had lots of aluminium shavings inside from the gallery welding and shave job, must of washed it over 10 times, i used 5L of diesel to flush the crap out reusing it and discarding the shavings each time, then several blasts of compressed air... reassembled it today but not following the 15deg's it says in the engine manual as that sat the cams at an impossible position where the cam bolts couldn't even reach the holes.. weird Then finally got round to cleaning the block hit in the 2 1.5 tomei restrictors and cleaned the head stud holes so ready to bolt head down now so next on the agenda - bolt head down, use copper spray on gasket - Knock sensors drilled tapped, installed - 2 tensioners drilled, tapped and installed

Just took the buckets off and shims so i could clean the head after it was machined, need an answer as first time ive looked at this... When assembling the shim onto the bucket 1) Do you oil between the two or assemble dry, would oiling cause the shim to be flicked or somthing? 2) Should the shim be flush with the top of the bucket cause all the intake side they sit up a mm but the exhaust side they are flush