AngryRB

I installed New LS7 lifters into an LS1 without worrying about messing with them, they were very hard to compress also, it was the rooted ones that came out that were compressible by hand, just my experience so far....

is a water/meth kit out of the question pete? Must be some good kits out that are reliable and have fail safes, would put the car on another level to now...

So looks like a similar situation to a GT3076 with a 0.63rear on RB25 then, so E85/water meth or go bigger housing/turbo?

yep- will take a jacket and a hoodie

I ran a GTX3076 on ULP98 , made 280kw at 16psi which is bang on same as GT, on E85 it made 320kw on 16psi and 20psi made by 3800, so in my case they are equal.. But, on 98 it was a bit boring to drive, havnt driven others cars to compare but with GTX it didn't really wake up til 4500rpm on 98 so bit all or nothing type thing. Also driven a R33 with a Hypergear SS2, drove just as good as the GT and GTX even on 11psi it was giving a good push in the seat, so that's a winner on a budget.

https://youtu.be/FouTfzHctpo looks like yours pete

Ah ok, ive been down that twin scroll path with a GT3076, wouldn't do it again but maybe it will work better for you as there's a few ways to do it.. Ask Scotty about a set of Xspurts, they are awesome injectors and ridiculously cheap, you can use the stock reg with deatchworks cant you or are you planning on an aftermarket rail?

I've bought off Kudos many times, they are great with communication and delivering on time, I made an order just a couple of days ago and received it today without issues... One time I got a package delivered in person by them, very friendly and professional guys... thumbs up

Yeah I thought same but they know more than me, either way it should be quite a lively streeter , its all a bit of a gamble/compromise for the budget builder like me, if she blows then its game over for a long while again lol..

Thanks mate, I actually changed to plan and bought a Neo head and will bolt it down on stock RB30e bottom end, it will just get skimmed so very similar to some other builds done recently. Guessing it will be like 9.3:1 zone just from other threads ive read.. Both engine builder and tuner advised against skimming head too much to get high comp , they say it will get harder to tune?? so just gonna take that advice and hope for the best..

Sounds great mate, should have some fun with it pretty soon, how much power you expecting?

I'm gonna need to get a life once this thread ends lol.. its provided me with therapy haha

Been buying up heaps of bolt on parts, its not cheap to modify an RB like this lol... although this is cheap in comparison to some builds ive seen, maybe mine is like a beginner/intermediate build hahaha Couple of buys from SAU members I wanna mention, Scotty was great to deal with, also Kudosmotorsport and Ben's supplying me with some VCT adjustable cam gear, these injectors are dam sexy!! So I tested the Neo head with some industrial crack testing sprays and it leaked terribly so ive taken it to an engine shop recommended by my tuner for a valve regrind and recondition, ordered some Tomei 260 9.15lift cams which are apparently needed to reset the shims. Not sure about getting springs , being a budget build I think I might take a gamble and see if it valve floats on the dyno but its still an option to replace them at the moment.. So next few weeks gonna try and bolt it together on the engine stand so it can drop in with the box on in one go, but im not a mechanic so could be interesting times ahead lol.. so guys like me with little mechanical knowledge might be interested in the pics to come etc as im pretty amateur and will rely on the old mans fitter and turner skills where skill is needed.. Havn't heard the RB sounds for ages, I hope it sounds pretty pissed off... haha.. extra cubes and extra comp should give some poke.. But lets not get to far ahead , plenty to do yet, just having a few beers so hope this post makes sense

haha.. im sure it will be fine, better than a life sitting in the shed that's for sure...

Ok, I don't plan on doing any mods other than these restrictors and I don't wanna use 60weight oil, its a pretty factory setup so far apart from the bigger cubes from the RB30 I wonder if keeping it 2 X 1.5mm like a factory neo would cause issue for the short squirts it will get..... so many things that people would recommend that it wont have, I guess i'll just see how it goes ...

Why block the front, does oil come thru the VCT and feed the front of the head? What happened with your front cam seal is that related to blocking the front or nothing to do with it?

an AMG Merc might of ticked all the boxes with a supercharger or low pressure twin turbo system, sound and looks pretty hot too

I reckon what Lithium said, the 0.84 split housing is probably not big enough, i had one on a 3076 and they are small in comparison to an open 0.82... On a 3.2L motor the retarding of cams would be to try and help the top end, if they were advanced and the boost didn't fall away ( assuming deliberately done) then it would be getting pretty hot with only 98 wouldn't it? When it was previously backfiring uptop , that might of been some ignition retard from knocking up top with a small rear housing?? You said it was running pretty rich which also would suggest they were trying to keep it cool cause was getting hot in there..

diff swap and VNT

interesting what the turbo does on an evo, although yours is a 0.84 split?? so it has a 62mm turbine?? http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62285

I was just interested to know if the boost curve was deliberate or not, yeah don't get tempted to adjust anything, bit risky I learnt the hard way with mine..

Why cant you just look at the boost controller and see if its deliberately set that way? I know on my AVCR its very obvious if someone's set the boost to drop off...

Would it be fine to just run 2 X1.5 restrictors if using stock bottom end and neo head with VCT and 90% normal street driving? I don't understand why if a RB25 uses 2 X 1.5 and its recommend 1 X1.3 and block one off, is this for an extreme high revving engine used on a track?

Just curious, if it was getting valve float in the top end, would you/could you tune around it by dropping the boost and retarding the cams? The dyno curve looks like it gets a wiggle on a touch, maybe not significant?

Yeah makes sense, cheers.. Compared RB25, 26 and 30 and interesting how the coolant holes don't match the block's perfectly, the RB30 has smaller coolant holes than the others but gets equal on 5 and 6. Must be an attempt to keep those cylinders cool as they are at the back.. Seems odd that the OEM gasket holes are upto a 3rd smaller than the coolant passage in the block, more so on the RB30 gasket though.