AngryRB

what are you trying to achieve? for the streets its best to keep it stock low mount i think, can get well over 300kw with just a stock manifold and a gt30, that's what ill be doing soon.

bump..will do head and CAS for $700 with new timing belt.. bolt it on and fry tyres! forgot to mention the key on the exhaust cam broke off, but never made any difference or else it wouldn't have been used. got 320kw with this head on 16psi.. so it works and proven, no smoking etc. anyone with a good RB25 neo head im happy to negotiate a swap

I think the r34 manifold has the opposite bolt configuration, more bolts on the strut side which looks like it might prevent leaks better?

I can remember my old Cordia Turbo manual said to let the car idle for 2-3minutes when cold to lubricate the turbo and then avoid loading engine until reaching operating temperature, probably still have that manual. The thing never boosted til 4k anyway.

yeah take to a tuner, that turbo will kick ass

Im gonna get the neo head skimmed for hopefully 9.5-1 on E85, why fall short if its a street engine, need all that bottom/mid range poke, how much should be skimmed to have 9.5ish on E85 ???? guessing a couple of thou would be a good thing?

hmm, well after quite a while and going from trying to sell it to giving up and loving the rb again, ive got some passion back and have decided to build an RB30DET and im going to use a neo head to get the goodness of 9.5-1 and no hydraulic lifters, current plan is to use a GT3076 with 0.82 external with power fc and go for 350kw's but use 1bar for daily and hopefully will make over the 260kw for a reliable daily with good low down torque. This is gonna take probably 6-12months so a long haul project but hopefully worth it, cause I decided I wont sell the RB ever, RB for life people, fTW.... not sure what model this RB30 is but it has the oil feed and return for the turbo.. the build will be a journey for me im sure, been done before so hopefully not too much heart ache, just after a strong street performer.

I did try to create a video thread but didn't succeed so heres one vid that would be included, the gt40 and rb30 seems to be a popular combo sounds awesome need a video thread of the top RB's on the dyno and track .... I could listen to it all day/night!! rb for life people lol

what do people think of this rb30 goodness lol.. yeah another video.. but this is what is all about isn't it, some good power gains from an rb..

I think you need to get the timing marks lined up so its on TDC, then slide the Cas in so the half moons join, then hopefully theres a mark where it was sitting or else its about half way and need checked with a timing light .

I like the idea of warming it up for 3 to 5minutes so the pistons can expand and aren't loose in the bore, I cant prove its the best thing or not, I like to put some Lucus upper cylinder Lube in the tank so theres lube in the fuel , that way the cylinders shouldn't be getting washed of their oil and are protected when its being thrashed. I don't think it matters that much in a stocker, in a big horsepower engine , its going to be pulled down from a broken ring landing or big end bearing before a cold start wears it out.

So I think I finally have the answer, Someone had got mixed up the Vapour line and the Fuel return line on the fuel pump, The vapour line has a restrictor to stop fuel from flowing to the charcoal canister, which had a few hundred ml's of fuel in it when I pulled it off, so fuel was being sucked into the manifold and pooling there , when on light throttle the vapour was causing overfueling and stuffing up the Map sensor probably. So finally got to the bottom of it, so anyone using a shitload of fuel , check the fuel pump was plumbed up properly. last fuel consumption was around the 11L/100km, which is a big improvement, I wonder if the return line being plumbed into the restrictor was causing higher fuel pressure in the rail too but not sure. thanks for everyones input and help.

might be worth a quick power run to check if the new muffler and cat have caused some restriction and need some timing taken out of the tune, but if the tune was not on the knife edge it will probably be ok.

Head + cams $500 , have bottom end too, but cylinder 5 is down on comp, stock exhaust from turbo to exhaust tip $80 Stock Turbo in VGC - $250 Stock S2 AFM- $ 60 Stock wheels with tyres $300 heaps of tread Stock injectors in rail $80 CAS ( near new) $250

haha.. its sitting in the shed now, let the fun begin

found another that's a 1 owner 120k old apparently and was running when pulled out, would a comp test be reliable if the motor is cold and not started for a few months, could I even do damage to the motor if its a bit dry and dirty from sitting?

I havnt seen anything for less than $350 up here, unless its from a bogans backyard.

Thinking about buying a Wrecker RB30, one wrecker I found said they have a long block which has been sitting on the shelf for years and they could do me that for $350, says it will turn by hand but they cant do a comp test on it for me. How long can an engine sit on a shelf for without getting rust in the bores? is it a bad idea to even buy off the shelf engine if you cant do a comp test?

Price reduction- $600 for head

I found a VW forum where a guy has a few similarities to your setup, he mentions that the seimens fuel injectors are a bit unreliable, he is using 35psi and only getting 420ish hp and high reading dyno, maybe your turbo is just at its limits and the fuel injectors are shithouse, if they partially sieze up or the spray was rubbish, that might be restricting the tune. This guys AFR is up and down. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6149918-5558-Dyno-Results-and-what-I-ve-learned&p=83227622#post83227622 I vote for 0.82 rear and some 1000cc ID's

whats the difference between a garrett 0.63 and a precision 0.63? if there isn't much then 280 is going well, if the restriction in exhaust is solved then surely the housing is the next thing to change.

get a socket and rachet on it and a long bar over the top for leverage and it will come off easy, sometimes nuts need a a meter long bar to sort them out, done this many times, bastards nuts are tight. Or ring spanner with big long bar overtop for big leverage if fits better in tight space.

rondofj- at the risk of stating the obvious, are you still using a 0.63? maybe I missed something but if so then isn't that the limit of the housing? I must of missed something lol.. flame on!! haha

Has the OP considered the HTA range, cause there has been some suggestions that the 3073 of that range could be an awesome streeter considering the compressor size and weight etc, the HTA 3076 that matt runs has had a lot of good praise on the forums so why not give its baby brother a go? I'd be going with the best compressor wheels not experimenting with the GTX ones. Just saying, your choice though. personally, ill always go the proven GT3076 for its crazy whistling and its proven to be a great combo with an rb25/rb3025

Id be worried about a 3582 used on a stock engine, if your using say 20psi and it hits hard then might be all over for the ring landings, just saying..