AngryRB

when I punched out a 3inch cat, it sounded terrible like id created backpressure, got a 100cell cat from Eliteracing and a 3inch Xforce oval muffler and "boom!!" awesome raw breathing sound without the crap drone or loudness that attracts cops..

got any pictures of these on an r33?? must be close on the back

this site has some stuff that might be of use... http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=WGT

are you sure 30thou is enough? on the commodore forums they say "Using the stock RB30E pistons will give you a CR of ~8.2:1. This can easily be increased to 9.5 - 10:1 (by shaving the head, ~2mm shaved) depending on fuel availability for regular street use."

Is it possible to get between 9.0:1 and 9.5:1 when using all stock parts and a Rb25DET head with poncams. Goal is 300kw, 14psi,gt30 using E'Flex Is there a proven combination that someone has used? ive most likely missed it somewhere. Piston? decking? gasket used? shaved head?

sad day, he was great in those fnf movies, showed the skyline off like a pioneer.. feels real empty knowing he's gone..

so is forged pistons the only answer to breaking ring lands? planning rb30det ( 9.5:1 and 3076) and want to be confident I wont break another ring land. I don't like piston slap so forgies not ideal for a street car..

its funny cause I went to Chilton engineering about my leaking manifold issues and showed him the manifold, he tested it with his straight edge and said not to bother machining it cause its hardly anything and it would be fine, but obviously it wasn't.. really loosing faith in these engineering places..

could you tell something was broken and what had caused it, eg boost/revs or both? im bit confused when mine happened cause even on 5 good cylinders it was pulling hard still, just idling rough.

what work you having done? forged or cast pistons? what clearances are the piston to bore are you going for? Did they have much to say about the process they use etc?

comments on this.. is a rb25 head really needed for a conversion?

Maybe ask Gavin woods on Gold coast

while on this topic, is a 2 1/4 inch pipe best for the whole job or should it come up to 2 1/2inch from intercooler to the throttle?

Ive never seen the guage keep getting higher with longer cranking, in the first few cranks it hits the number and after that just bounces on that number, the engine just has what it has I don't get how you can make it higher than that.

must be a pain to drive off boost, im keen to do a rb30det with 9.5-10-1 with e85 and a 3076, nothing worse than a sluggish motor on the streets, but sometimes you just have to do the best with what you've got..

sounds like a cool build, just put the turbo on the roof, that way you'll get some awesome cold air and more power, will pull like a train!! im following this build man!!

Ive compared 2 identical engines before, one with 150psi ( supposed to be 7.6-1) each cylinder and one with 180psi, and the one with 180psi cleary had more balls, the 180psi one had the head shaved which would of increased the comp ratio.. also a previous rb20det that was in nice condition, showed up as 150psi on average, showed 100rwkw without intercooler so about right I think, just for reference

The last rebuild I did ( paid machine shops to do boring and rebuild head) turn't out to be a flop, the workshops stuffed up and I had piston slap, rings not bedding and I found metal shaving inside the assembled head. Finding a workshop that has employees with OCD as opposed to , yeah she'll be right attitude is the biggest issue.. I don't want apprentices learning and making mistakes with my $$$ spent

car is dedicated E85, its a big decision, having thoughts of running a higher comp ratio of mid to high 9s, gt3076 with .63 rear internal, goal is driving on streets and drags with reducing lag and making it feel very punchy on the street. 300-320kw max stocker- solid from factory but still old and 155av comps.. rebuild- new pistons/rings ( possibly forged) and have 180-200 comp = more grunt and earlier boost for the streets much simpler to just drop stocker in though and maybe shave a bit off head, don't want to overcomplicate stuff

with new pistons/rings should get 180 across all six and be better base to work with wouldn't it?

that was the plan, but then discovered the dropped cylinder and now thinking ill just have another crack at it, will be a 300kw and ethanol , keep it very simple this time with a 0.63internal rear

Unfortunately mines dropped cylinder 5 flaming mongrel!! Im not sure what caused it, had plenty of vacuum leak drama from the plenum in past year and an accidental overboost of 25psi in third, all cylinders 155-160 and number 5 is 60..goes upto 200 with some oil squirted in. rebore and forgies n rings or drop a stocky? thoughts?

ive tried both the open 0.82 external on a gtx3076 and a twin scroll 0.82external on a gt3076 and if doing things again id opt for an open garrett housing, and make it a 0.63 internal to save money and drama's, Mafia's internal 0.63 worked well from reading his old thread but needed a larger flapper.. I think the 0.82 is not really suited to the street, a 0.63 with ethanol/meth is best match for street I reckon anyone know if the xr6 ford style rear could be used with an xr6 turbo dump?

ill take the rear housing PM sent

thanks, PM sent